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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2006 Chassis, Suspension, Powertrain Clunk Rattle Noises Thread

I have a lot of different noises, to the point of very interesting. These are all related to the suspension and driveline. Clunking from the rear, Rattle from bad driveshaft, Knocking from the [?driveshaft output?], Vibration from the [?driveshaft output?].

Noise 1) [single cycle] Knock, Clunk can seem like a light hammer or a stone that was chucked by a kid from underneath you car. You can feel this noise sometimes, you feel the shock. The noise happens once per event.

Repair: Energy Suspension Differential Bushing

Noise 2) [high cycle, driveline orders] Rattle, Clicking from below or rear of car. The noise may increase/decrease based on load and coasting.

Video of driveshaft installed noise

Video of driveshaft removed noise
The video of the driveshaft removed was a good example, imagine I was moving my hand at 300 hz when shaking the u-joint on the driveshaft.

Repair: Replace driveshaft (I found a used one)



Noises 3-5 were excited by the Energy Suspension Bushing, but the noises did exist at a lower magnitude prior to the bushing.

Noise 3) [single cycle, driver induced] Clunking, Knocking. This can be very notable when in 1st gear near idle, when you get on the gas and off you clearly hear a clunk from under the gear shifter while the car bucks back and forth. The bucking can be induced on any manual vehicle, it's the driveline slack loading/unloading as the engine "fights" the wheels. I can hear some significant mechanical lash that I think may be attributed to the AR5 manual transmission output yoke play I noted in the video below.

AR5 Transmission Output Lash

Repair: Unknown, replace transmission?

Noise 4) [low cycle, driver induced] This sounds like Noise 3, but the frequency of the noise is a little higher. You hear the mechanical clunk knocking, but it is rapid fire in short succession.

Noise 5) [high cycle, driveline orders] Vibration, High Frequency Rattle when you're coasting but is louder when you're on partial throttle but still nearly coasting down. If you play with the throttle between 0-15% for example, you can excite the noise. It's seems worse the lower gear you use when cruising, so in 4th gear 40 mph the noise is very loud and 5th gear at 40 mph is quieter.

Repair: Unknown, replace transmission?

I sense that Noises 3-5 are coming from under the shifter, which is where the AR5 output is.

I was planning on doing a clutch for maintenance and the little squeek I get when letting off the clutch at the point of full grab. I think I will have to replace this transmission when I do this, the Noises 3-5 are not good.






















Tip for bushing replacement without a hydraulic press and tooling: Melt the stock bushing at the interface of the steel insert/ring that is the outer component of the OEM bushing. Do this by applying heat to only the aluminum housing (google it). Knock out partially melted bushing with something that will be slathered with rubber goo.

Using a standard hacksaw with the bushing mounted in a vise or clamped down, remove one end of the hacksaw blade and insert it through the bushing mount hole. I hope you get where we're going with this, we're are going to saw completely through the steel insert evenly across it. Do not go deep into the Aluminum mount, only penetrate the steel. Use a hammer and large screwdriver or chisel to bend the steel insert at 1 edge, then rip it out with standard vise grips. Clean up any gouges with a round file with WD40 or sandpaper/drum, round it off.

Install the new bushing without the small ~3/4" steel insert (so the bushing can deform there). Make sure you lightly/heavily grease up the aluminum and polyurethane mating surfaces, use dielectric grease if you lose your packet. Make you insert the outer diameter lip of the new bushing that has the fillet behind it. Same concept as removing the small steel insert, to let it deform there as you press it in.

To press in, I used a large bench vise with two flat aluminum plates (scrap had around) to balance the load transfer from the jaws. I also used a large pry bar between the part and vise, as the bushing tries to jump out when it gets caddy wampas.
 

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Noise 3 is very common. My car has had it since new. It's commonly thought to come from the differential (drive gear slack) and is/was always decreed as "normal" by GM.
 

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Noise 3 is very common. My car has had it since new. It's commonly thought to come from the differential (drive gear slack) and is/was always decreed as "normal" by GM.
Since I changed to the polyurethane rear diff bushing, it is definitely louder than the stock bushing, as that bushing is the only I messed with and is part of the diff, so the diff is probably the source and not the output yoke of the AR5.

I wonder if there is a compromise with that bushing, where you could fill the openings of the stock bushing with solid fillers. Like you split the difference of stiffness between the OEM and poly bushings.
 
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