[HHGadget]

May I suggest you replace the lower radiator hose while you are this deep and have easy access to the three ends and clamps. I noticed it in the rear view of the engine along with the oil cooler. It is as old as the car and may be perfect, but then again...another piece to fail? KG posted a fine illustration of the hose the other day.

I remember Dave at DDM did not look forward to changing one if that was all being done. With the trans and clutch work it can be done easily and quickly. If you do not already have the hose clamp pliers tool, this is the one he suggested I purchase. I did and it's worked for me.
Astro Pneumatic Tool 9409A Hose Clamp Pliers
Amazon.com

Excellent photos on the clutch project. Following with interest.

Richard Snipes

Well I ordered this tool because there isn’t a way to do it with bread… so thanks Richard.

 

[HHGadget]

The problem I had with the top bolts is that they are next to impossible to see and you can’t get your hand in there. Luckily I had a cheap endoscope that confirmed I was on the bolt head with the socket.

I think by putting the high visibility tape there going together should be much easier. (Famous last words)

 

[HHGadget]

Your clutch disk was on the fringe. it didn't have much life left to it.

View attachment 120358


Flywheel is toast you can see the hot spots.

View attachment 120359


Pressure plate didn't have any broke fingers and no wear to the fingers so no issues with the release bearing. I would still replace the release bearing anyhow.

View attachment 120360


Because your clutch disk has the wear it has this is probably the reason why the clutch began to slip. Because of the clutch disk being thin the amount of pressure that is being put on it is reduced and slipping of the clutch is the way you know it is time to replace it. With a stock GXP you may have been able to get more life out of the clutch but with the added torque from the upgrades you have done the clutch was not able to hold given the amount of pressure that was being put by the pressure plate.

Make sense?

On a note. I never rally paid attention but I didn't realize the OE clutch in the GXP is springless. GM probably did this because of the ECM controlling the RPM and the "hang" when shifting. Normally there would be 4 springs on the clutch disk to soften the engagement of the clutch.

I am replacing with the DDM kit mentioned in the thread header. Does that include the “release bearing” as I have not heard that mentioned before?

 

[JohnWR]

I am replacing with the DDM kit mentioned in the thread header. Does that include the “release bearing” as I have not heard that mentioned before?

The "release bearing" is the hydraulic throwout bearing, also known as the clutch slave cylinder.

 

[kgschlosser]

I used a Dremil tool with the want attachment and a cutoff wheel on it to get the spring clamps off. I didn't care about hitting the hose because well. I was replacing the hose. You can see how the spring clamps are put on and there is no easy way to get them off from above without cutting them off. I did all the hoses from the top and if i didn't have the Dremil tool and needed attachments I am not sure how I would have gotten those clamps off.


For those of you that don't know a t-bolt clamp that is smaller then 1" is not called a t-bolt clamp. It is called a high pressure fuel injector/line clamp and they look like this.

 

[HHGadget]

The "release bearing" is the hydraulic throwout bearing, also known as the clutch slave cylinder.

So yes the DDM kit comes with that. Whew!

 

[HHGadget]

I did not drain / empty the rear diff when I dropped it for the clutch. Your mileage may vary though.

Nor the transmission.

Note, “if” I am able to reassemble this without removing the axle/s then draining the differential is not necessary.
I imagine pulling both of the axles out would basically require draining the dif or chancing a nasty gear oil puddle right where you are working.

 

[JohnWR]

Note, “if” I am able to reassemble this without removing the axle/s then draining the differential is not necessary.
I imagine pulling both of the axles out would basically require draining the dif or chancing a nasty gear oil puddle right where you are working.

If you do not drain it, and if you remove the axle(s), and if you tilt it enough, you will create an oily puddle.

 

[HHGadget]

If you do not drain it, and if you remove the axle(s), and if you tilt it enough, you will create an oily puddle.

Yup that’s what I was attempting to articulate.
Regardless I drained it with the expectation I would be pulling the axle.
Maybe I will get lucky and not have to…

 

[HHGadget]

Yay! New clutch kit from DDM came today.
Still waiting on the lower radiator hose and oil cooler o-rings. Universe willing I will have those in the next couple of days…

- should I rub any grease on the rubber seal around the crankshaft before putting the new flywheel on?

 

[HHGadget]

After an already difficult week dealing with some family issues I decided to take a half day off and prep the damn thing for the tranny install Saturday.
Installed the rubber o-rings on the oil cooler and replaced the lower radiator hose.
Let me just say what a pain in the but the lower radiator hose was with the tranny out.
Can’t imagine doing it with the tranny in.

also installed the new slave cylinder that came with the DDM clutch kit.
I am too tired so pictures in no particular order…

 

[HHGadget]

DDM clutch kit as it arrived and broken down.

 

[HHGadget]

I know KG, I know. Went with the stock connections on the hose. Don’t yell at me
Just been a really tough week and I want to get this thing done.

 

[HHGadget]

No mention anywhere of putting any loc-tite on the clutch cover plate (yes in the flywheel bolts).

that’s correct yes?
Also shop manual said 22 ft lbs on clutch cover plate and 65 ft lbs on the flywheel. (In a particular order I followed)
Also correct yes?

 

[kgschlosser]

I am not going to say anything about the stock clamps. If it's what you have available then go for it. They are better then using worm gear clams.

Aren't you happy you listened to us about changing the lower radiator hose and the o-rings on the oil cooler. They are a real pain to do from the top. Trust me I know first hand what it's like to change them from the top. It took me 2 days and I didn't even put an OE hose back in because of how much of a pain it was to get out. I said screw that and put in CSST (Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing) that has a burst rating of 1500 psi and it will never dry rot!!!

 

[kgschlosser]

what is that crap on the flywheel? did you clean it off before installing? Also did you give the flywheel a nice wipe down with alcohol after installing it to make sure there is no oil residue on it?

 

[HHGadget]

Sprayed some brake clean on a shop towel and wiped it clean.

 

[HHGadget]

Also thanks to 4501 Safari and you for the hose and cooler recommendations. They were totally fine but who wants to do all that again.
Gods sake the hose might have been more challenging than the water pump. Even with the hose clamp pliers Richard recommended there were still places it was a real treat to get to the clamps

 

[kgschlosser]

good deal on cleaning the flywheel.

Just imagine doing that hose from above. OYE!!

 

[agent008]

Such a great thread for a would-be engine swapper to keep an eye on. My dream lives on, haha.
Thanks everyone!