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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I accidentally left the trunk door open and the battery died in my car. I thought this would be an easy fix. I brought my portable battery starter to the garage, hooked it up, and turned the key. The anti theft lock immediately seized the engine, not permitting the battery to charge. I tried using the unlock feature on my key fob, that failed to solve the issue. In order to remove the battery I would need to remove part of the front end of the car. Does anyone have a simpler suggestion for me? Help!
 

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Anti-theft, to the best of my knowledge, will not prevent the battery from being re-charged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Anti-theft, to the best of my knowledge, will not prevent the battery from being re-charged.
When the anti theft engages, it seizes the motor and does not allow the engine to turn over. This is preventing the portable charger from transmitting electricity to the battery. Which is not allowing a jump start of the vehicle.
 

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Actually, the anti theft allows the engine to turn over normally. Generally it will also allow the engine to start and run for about a second. Then it cuts the ignition. So the engine should go through a normal start cycle then cut off.

When you go through a start cycle, if the engine is not turning over then you have a different issue.

Also I believe that the BCM will shut off the trunk light after a period of time ot proteect the battery. I may be wrong but that is what my failing memory suggests.

If the engine is not turning over at all, then you have a different issue.

Its possible the starter is not engaging either due to a break in the current path or because the starter has failed.

The motort should always turn over if there is sufficient electrical power available.

To access the battery, you can either pull the right front fender and the forward fender brace, or you can remove the right front wheel, leave the fender in place and after removing the fastners for the rear portion of the inner fender and the forward brace, slide the battery out thorugh the now open wheel well. I have done this method many times. Leaves the fender in position.

Before you start throwing parts at the car, find out why its not turning over. Failed relay? Bad connection to the starter? Bad starter?

Put a wrench on the motor and ensure it will turn over. Then start the diagnostics.
 

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So I have to ask the obvious question how old is your battery ? If it's 5 years or older and you don't drive it frequently and not use a battery maintainer it maybe time to replace it .By draining the charge on an old battery it may not be able to be recharged and with all the electrics on newer vehicle a battery is an integral part of the system . As for replacing it the inner fender method for me is the easiest there are threads on the forum which explain the procedure
 

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Another possible issue with charging is that newer battery chargers will not charge a battery that is too low. They require some voltage to detect that they are connected correctly. If this is the case you will have to find an older battery charger or connect a good battery to the bad one during the initial charging.

I agree with @rob the elder that there should be a timer for the trunk light to prevent excessive battery discharge.
 

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2006 NA Deep 99.9% Stock
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I can verify that in my 2006 NA the trunk light does turn off after approx. 10 minutes, so that is probably not the cause. As others have said, best first step is find true cause of your issue.

IF your battery is dead and cannot be restored to life, there are various schools of thought (and videos on Youtube) on the easiest way to replace. None of them appear to be what I would consider "easy." Mine is now over 5 years old, so I am dreading when it goes, but for now it is still doing fine. I do drive it fairly regularly except in Winter, and in Winter I use a NOCO Genius 2 battery maintainer.
 

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2009 Pontiac Solstice GXP Coupe 001136
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When the anti theft engages, it seizes the motor and does not allow the engine to turn over. This is preventing the portable charger from transmitting electricity to the battery. Which is not allowing a jump start of the vehicle.
Does your portable battery starter plug into the lighter, or attach to the battery terminal & engine/frame/ground?

Do you have a trickle charger?
 

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I can verify that in my 2006 NA the trunk light does turn off after approx. 10 minutes, so that is probably not the cause
This strengthens the case for a bad/worn battery. Maybe it died from the trunk light before the 10 minute period? But then again, how would the battery have held enough charge for cranking before that...
 

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Just went through this literally yesterday. Went out to start the car and nothing but a few clicks. Not even an attempt to turn over. Feared it was the starter, but grabbed some jumper cables and it fired right up. I'd suggest using jumper cables and another car instead of the portable jumper. Never been a fan of those, but your mileage may vary.

As I posted in the battery thread, I'm begging you to do the fender liner method instead of pulling/rotating the fender. Just lift the right front, pull off the wheel, pull off the rear portion of the fender liner, undo the bracing, and you're done. I did the pulling/rotating of the fender option and while it came off super easy, getting everything back together was a nightmare. If I ever have to do it again, I'm doing the fender liner method 10000000000000000%.
 

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2007 Solstice GXP Mysterious
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The trunk light did not kill the battery. All GM cars have battery savers. The battery committed seppuku. Get a new battery and move forward from there.
 

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Lots of help and no reply from the OP. Feedback is a good thing and perhaps a bit of what worked to solve the problem (or not) is always nice.

Richard Snipes
 

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Lots of help and no reply from the OP. Feedback is a good thing and perhaps a bit of what worked to solve the problem (or not) is always nice.

Richard Snipes
To be fair, it has only been two days, and the OP has not been on the forum since their last post.
 

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Just for general information, I have had very good succes with the small jump start batteries. They will retain a charge for months and every time I have had occasion to use one, they worked as promised. And they dont take up much room in the trunk! I now have one in all 5 of our vehicles and one spare which I rotate through periodically to keep them all charged.
 

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Just for general information, I have had very good succes with the small jump start batteries. They will retain a charge for months and every time I have had occasion to use one, they worked as promised. And they dont take up much room in the trunk! I now have one in all 5 of our vehicles and one spare which I rotate through periodically to keep them all charged.
I agree with this. Each of our vehicles has a NOCO Boost GB40, and most of them have been wired with their plug to eliminate the need for the clamps. A further benefit is their portability, since if somene else needs a jump you can use it instead of your car.

Just be mindful of where you store it. Since nearly all access to cars is electric now, a dead battery will make it difficult to access certain places - like our trunks. We needed ours while out of state last month and I had to do some gymnastics to get it out of the spare tire well in the back of the CUV when the hatch wouldn't open. The ones I keep in the Skys are on the floor behind the seat, and not in the trunk.
 

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When my battery died, I dreaded changing it. So I got the car started and drove it to a close mechanic shop that sells and changes just about every battery. at first the mechanic consulted with his boss, who said you have to remove the right front wheel. I said I prefer the fender removal method.He said it can’t be done that way.
Then I suddenly remembered certain things from a prior post……Remove the seven fender screws, remove the bolt that goes through the door panel into the fender….this should enable you to remove the fender. remove one or two bolts on the battery “cage” so it swings open and you can remove the battery. I probably missed something, but that is mostly it. It looks more intimidating then it actually is. The boss admitted that he learned something that day.……..hope this helps ….Charlie
 

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When my battery died, I dreaded changing it. So I got the car started and drove it to a close mechanic shop that sells and changes just about every battery. at first the mechanic consulted with his boss, who said you have to remove the right front wheel. I said I prefer the fender removal method.He said it can’t be done that way.
Then I suddenly remembered certain things from a prior post……Remove the seven fender screws, remove the bolt that goes through the door panel into the fender….this should enable you to remove the fender. remove one or two bolts on the battery “cage” so it swings open and you can remove the battery. I probably missed something, but that is mostly it. It looks more intimidating then it actually is. The boss admitted that he learned something that day.……..hope this helps ….Charlie
Removing and replacing the fender is fairly simple, but aligning can be a real problem. This can make the "harder" process of removing the wheel "easier" overall.

The Sky fender, apparently due to the shape of the body, seems to be easier than the Solstice to align, and I have used that method three times so far without any problems.

Something that has been reprted to make the realignment easier is to apply masking tape across the panel joints, draw match marks along the tape, and then cut the tape before removing the panel. The tape and the marks prvide a much clearer indication of the proper location.
 

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Mentioned earlier, but if you get a jack under the front of the car and remove the right wheel, you don't even need to remove the entire wheel well liner. It's flexible enough to bend out of the way with the front fasteners still attached, leaving easy access to the battery area and a quick reassembly when done. While you're in there, it's also easy to attach a battery tender cable to the terminals of the new battery. Thirty minutes in and out. :)
 
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