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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have the quote in my hand but I need to hear from other members who have gone v/8 power.

does your cruise work? I have been told my early 2006 should be no problem. Do you all agree?

Will the stock rear end hold up to a beating from an LS376 "bomber" @ 525 h.p. GM motor (hot cam LS 3)?

How can I tell if my rear end has limited slip (LSD) type rear end?

If it doesn't have LSD will the car go in a perpetual circle on hard acceleration?

Will the stock 3.73 gear ratio work for all that H.P.?

Should I go ahead and upgrade to a better rear end?

I am updating the braking system, new transmission (T-56) dropping the car at least 1'' inch adding dual exhaust with a quiet muffler system (wife won't go in a loud car anymore old age suxs!)
Anything else I should do here?

I am going to keep the stock rims but want a tire that will glue itself to the road. I have been reading and it looks to be safe I can get a way with a 245/45 but some have said a 255/45 or 255/40 will work. I think with the drop in height I can get away with a 255/40?

Thoughts?
Thanks!!!
 

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I have a 2006 as well. Look on the sticker in the glovebox for code "G80" for LSD. Mine has G80 (LSD) and GW1 (3.91 axle ratio). Looks like GT4 is the code for 3.73 axle ratio.

Good luck with your upgrade.
 

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I have the quote in my hand but I need to hear from other members who have gone v/8 power.

does your cruise work? I have been told my early 2006 should be no problem. Do you all agree?

Will the stock rear end hold up to a beating from an LS376 "bomber" @ 525 h.p. GM motor (hot cam LS 3)?

How can I tell if my rear end has limited slip (LSD) type rear end?

If it doesn't have LSD will the car go in a perpetual circle on hard acceleration?

Will the stock 3.73 gear ratio work for all that H.P.?

Should I go ahead and upgrade to a better rear end?

I am updating the braking system, new transmission (T-56) dropping the car at least 1'' inch adding dual exhaust with a quiet muffler system (wife won't go in a loud car anymore old age suxs!)
Anything else I should do here?

I am going to keep the stock rims but want a tire that will glue itself to the road. I have been reading and it looks to be safe I can get a way with a 245/45 but some have said a 255/45 or 255/40 will work. I think with the drop in height I can get away with a 255/40?

Thoughts?
Thanks!!!
Welcome to the forums.

There are several of us who have converted cars. Three that I know who have the same motor / transmission combination.

The mechanical conversion is a reasonably well understood process now. Mallet, Werks, Wade's garage and DDM Works have or are doing conversions. Mine was done by DDM Dave.

To the best of my knowledge the basic tune converting the Kappa to the LS is all done by Ken Kelly using LS2 Edit.

CARPUTING.COM

My cruise does not function. My car started as a 2007 2.0 car and has a different ECM than the 2.4 cars. I know individuals who have both flavors of cars. Several of them have non-functioning cruise control. Mine does not function. Some of the people I know of with non-functioning cruise control are 2.4 cars. In the beginning . . . the early conversions some of the cruise worked and some did not. And Ken did not know why. The tune was identical in all cases. I have been told that they "solved the problem" for the 2.4 cars and that they are "close" to solving the problem for the 2.0 cars but the fact is that some work, many do not and there is no universal or even set of fixes that once applied solve the problem. There are a lot of good reasons for this lack of undestanding but the bottom line is that you will not know if the cruise will work until after the conversion is done and they test it. And if it does not, they may or may not be able to get it working. Several of us are still waiting. For a few years.

My car dyno'd at 460 HP at the wheels on the DDM dyno. Dave told me that the weak links are the stock transmission and the stock axles. Since you are going to the T56 (as we have done) that is not an issue. The stock axles are apparently "good" to about 400 HP. If you ever manage to actually connect with the pavement with the TC and stability control turned off then there is a very high liklihood that the axels will fail. There are after market units that are rated to something like 600 HP. I am still running the stock axles on my car, but I run with the TC on which manages the power to avoide failures, and I run stock size tires which while they provide plenty of traction for the street, do not hook up well enough to cause the axles to fail.

I am running the stock 2.0 differential and its fine for me. 1800 RPM at 75 in 6th gear. The ratios 1-5 are pretty close together but it works well for me. Others have changed out the differential ratio and can speak to their experience.

Without traction control and stability control there could be dirvability issues. Keeping it pointed straight ahead would be a challenge. With a LSD rear end and no active control, you will be swapping ends on a regular basis. Without TC or LSD, you will be spinning one rear tire nearly every time you accelerate. With my car, at 6000 ft altitude if I take it easy starting out and give it full throttle gradually, the rear end will start to break loose every time till the TC kick in and stop the wheel spin. Without it I can see where driving the car would be an interesting challenge.

Another lesson learned is you really want your own copy of the ls2 edit and cable. It costs about $550 but it gives you access to the ECM software so you can make your own changes and more importantly it buys the service of Ken Kelly who had updated my tune 7 times to refine it and make it run great.

Feel free to come back with questions. :thumbs:
 

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I have the quote in my hand but I need to hear from other members who have gone v/8 power.

does your cruise work? I have been told my early 2006 should be no problem. Do you all agree?

Will the stock rear end hold up to a beating from an LS376 "bomber" @ 525 h.p. GM motor (hot cam LS 3)?

How can I tell if my rear end has limited slip (LSD) type rear end?

If it doesn't have LSD will the car go in a perpetual circle on hard acceleration?

Will the stock 3.73 gear ratio work for all that H.P.?

Should I go ahead and upgrade to a better rear end?

I am updating the braking system, new transmission (T-56) dropping the car at least 1'' inch adding dual exhaust with a quiet muffler system (wife won't go in a loud car anymore old age suxs!)
Anything else I should do here?

I am going to keep the stock rims but want a tire that will glue itself to the road. I have been reading and it looks to be safe I can get a way with a 245/45 but some have said a 255/45 or 255/40 will work. I think with the drop in height I can get away with a 255/40?

Thoughts?
Thanks!!!
Cruise on mine works fine.

My car dyno`d 430 to the wheels on Werks Mustang dyno putting in pretty close to 525HP at the flywheel. Still have the stock gears, LSD and axles. Ive auto-x it and drag raced it without issue. I am currently running a high performance summer tire and traction is pretty limited (giving lousy 60ft times). If I were to go to a drag radial or similar Im sure the axles and diff would be on borrowed time. But so far so good.

I have 275s on the rear currently with room to go to a 285 easy (CCW wheels). Car is lowered at least an inch and there are no issues with rubbing.

Consider an engine oil cooler. I live in the midwest and on 90+ degree days the oil temps would get a little high. Hasnt been an issue since adding the cooler.

Something else I would have added during the build, knowing what I know now, is more heat shielding in the engine bay and the trans tunnel when the engine and trans were out. I have added some shielding were I could, but its tough with everything in the way.
 

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Good points on heat.

I ended up pulling the interior out of the car and installing thermal / sound insulation to make the cockpit more user friendly. On a hot day the engine / transmission generate a LOT of heat that is about 5 inches from the wife's leg.

Also, the LS engines run HOT. The stock fan on an LS3 equipped vette do not turn on till 225 F. Not a problem for the motor but since you are basically sitting on it . . . .:willy:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Great point on the heat shielding. My 2.4 on a warm summer afternoon will put enough heat on the floor to turn on the a/c.
Oil cooler another GREAT POINT!
I will check the rear end code tomorrow (car is in storage for the winter)
This will be a Performance Autowerks build if we go forward. Can anyone comment on this company?
Many thanks to all that have commented!
:willy:
 

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Great point on the heat shielding. My 2.4 on a warm summer afternoon will put enough heat on the floor to turn on the a/c.
Oil cooler another GREAT POINT!
I will check the rear end code tomorrow (car is in storage for the winter)
This will be a Performance Autowerks build if we go forward. Can anyone comment on this company?
Many thanks to all that have commented!
:willy:
Performance AutoWerks did my original conversion as well as the later cam install and tuning. I couldnt have been more satisfied with Dave G. and his team. Their work is top notch and the support Dave has given me after the install has been above and beyond.
 

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If your car is automatic is 3.73 if it is standard transmission is a 3.91.
 

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SJW
How loud is your SOL w/headers?
Thats a tough one because it is so relative. My wife and I are used to a more aggressive exhaust (she has a Magnaflow cat back on her V6 Accord). IMO cruising around its pretty tame and with the Magnaflow muffler there is no annoying drone at highway speeds. But put the hammer down and it wakes up real fast. If it would help, give me a day or two, and I could put a video together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
SJW,
That would be great. Funny we have a v/6 accord as well and if I ever touched the exhaust I would be in TROUBLE. I bet it screams though....sweet!
If anyone else has anything to say about Werks Please chime in. I am very close to pulling the trigger on the build.
 

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Werks has done a fair number of V8 conversions since the Solstice came out in 2006. I saw one of the first at NASSM Nashville in June 2007. It was very well done, and they have improved the installation since back then.

They do a very professional job, and stand behind their work. :dthumbs:
 

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There is also Wades Garage. Wade was the guy who did the Solbra. These days he does v8 conversions without the body kit. Not suggesting there is anything wrong with Werks, but I personally would talk to all the accomplished V8 converters before deciding on who to go with.
 

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Werks has been around for as long as I have been here and I have heard nothing but good about Dave and his team. I met him twice at Nationals. Good people.
 

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No I do not, the 3.91 gear ratio is for a NA car.

Specifications
Specs for Style:
Power and Performance
2.4L I-4 177 HP engine
5-spd man transmission w/OD
125 amp alternator
590 amp battery with run down protection
Axle Ratio
3.91 axle ratio
Fuel Tank
13.0 gal. fuel tank
Stainless steel exhaust with polished tailpipe finish


What I had wrong was the 3.73 and that is for the 2.0 Turbo.
 

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serfdad, here you go. Walk around is with car idling, the first driving section is windows up. I turned on the radio to aprox 30% volume to give you a reference. 2nd driving section is windows down and the last two were just for fun.

8Ebru9GoMII&feature
 

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I have custom Norms vented fenders and they do drop the temp about 5 F. But also, the temps drop more quickly than before the vented fenders improved air flow out from under the hood.
 
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