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HI Guys,
based on some basic research with unlimited budget to reach 400+ HP with "original" Solstice parts (no replacing engine from another V8 cars and still call it Solstice! phew :)
ok, I have Solstice GXP, 116k miles, no problems what so ever. It already has some quick tuning, but now I wanna get to another level. This is what I wanna do.

Here are the parts I would like to change and install to reach the power:

New engine by DDM - 3995$ (for 400+HP)
http://www.ddmworks.com/Built-Sosltice-Sky-20L-LNF-Engine-by-DDMWorks-_p_681.html

Pontiac Solstice GXP Stage 3 Performance Pack (350whp/380wtq) - 1750$
https://www.rpm-motorsports.com/store/p170/pontiac-solstice-gxp-stage-3-performance.html

Pontiac Solstice GXP Upgraded 3.5" Core Aluminum Intercooler (600whp rated) - 550$
https://www.rpm-motorsports.com/store/p203/pontiac-solstice-gxp-upgraded-intercooler.html

DDMWorks Brace Bundle for Solstice (Backbone and Probeam) - 400$
http://www.ddmworks.com/DDMWorks-Brace-Bundle-for-Solstice-Sky_p_302.html

DDMWorks Front Big Brake Kit for Solstice - 880$
http://www.ddmworks.com/DDMWorks-Front-Big-Brake-Kit-for-Solstice-Sky_p_638.html

BR Series Coilover Pontiac Solstice suspension - 1050$ (I already have it installed, very low)
https://www.bcracing-na.com/products?car=52-1518-2007-0&bFilter=bc-racing-br-series-coilover

Solstice VDI Vertical Door Kit - 1300$ (for the look)
http://www.ddmworks.com/Solstice-VDI-Vertical-Door-Kit_p_142.html

Solstice GXP Mach Shorty Exhaust by Solo Performance - 825$
http://www.ddmworks.com/Solstice-GXP-Mach-Shorty-Exhaust-by-Solo-Performance_p_119.html

MagnaFlow Competition Core Stainless Steel Silver Exhaust Mufflers 2x - 450$ (for the loud sound)
https://www.carid.com/magnaflow/magnaflow-street-mufflers-with-tips-1295166329.html

  • bunch of gauges for over 1200$
  • GT wing spoiler - ??$
  • new edgy looking body kit - ??$
  • 245, 20' wheels (I already have it installed)
Service / Labor not included - ??

What else would you recommend? or what else am I missing? am I on the good path?
In most cases, the packages includes all additional parts, you might not see in the list.
 

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Hello!
For brute torque and making the hair dryer spool from the lights a longer stroke with the stock rod length would get the low rpm pumping going quicker. That gets the air moving to the turbine a lot quicker and still reach your HP target. Of course you will need 10 inch wheels and DOT slicks to make it hook from the lights. Mine is just a street racer not a boulevard car and making big torque in such a light car makes it hard to keep the back from kicking out. And yes unlimited funds will help huge. For a manual transmission car if you put a line lock on it and hang on to the car while you step on the gas and slip the clutch, you can leave to lights with almost full boost. With some practice you can beat everybody at the lights. Total fun car but realize a new corvette will be cheaper.
 

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I'd take a moment to consider your use case.

A big turbo (and I don't mean a big wheel K04) is going to increase lag. That affects usability of the car for autocross and some types of track events as well as street use. Does this matter? Depends on what you're using it for. If you want something that spools fast, stick with the big wheel. If all you want is dyno bragging rights and (blech) drag racing, lag probably doesn't matter as much.

There are basically two ways to increase whp:

1. Increase engine output. Bigger turbo, more fuel, E85 / E47, etc. This is the route most people choose to go. In my opinion, it's not always the most effective approach.

2. Reduce rotating mass. That means flywheel (AL flywheels rev WAY, WAY faster than stock steel), rims, brakes (stock rotors are heavy)... with an unlimited budget, you could get into lighter driveshaft and axles, clutch, pulleys, and anything else that moves. If you really wanted to get crazy, you could go with a carbon driveshaft and smaller rims. I I could fit 16s over my brakes, I'd happily do it. All other things (mass, etc.) being equal, a smaller rim will give you more whp than a larger rim. Torque is a funny thing. This can also be affected through choice of crank, pistons, rods and (at the really extreme end of the spectrum) transmission internals.

People talk about sprung vs unsprung weight all the time, but rotating mass has more of an impact. When your car is sitting still on a dyno, sprung vs unsprung weight doesn't matter one bit.

Note that increasing whp is not the same as improving acceleration. If you knocked 500lbs of non-rotating weight off of the car, you'd keep the same whp but get a substantial performance gain. If you add 100 horse power at the cost of 500 lbs (totally random numbers here), the car will do better on the dyno but way worse on the track and street.

Just my 2.7 yen.
 

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I agree with Raygun.

Raygun have you dyno your car with the wr-1?

what's the airflow of the wr-1?
I haven't dyno'd it with the big wheel. I'm sure Dave Gilbert at @werks could help you out with some numbers.

I will say that it is a nice kick in the pants. I went from (literally) 40 whp (dyno) below a friend with basically the same mods, to having to brake to avoid hitting him on an on ramp.
 

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That's not what I was getting it Partrick. And from the posts you made early on, you know nothing about cars. Unless it can be as reliable as a normal, non-modded GXP, you WILL at some point have to work on it. You yourself just said there are not reliable shops in Georgia. Here's my prediction if you do this. You will have it built. In a year after spending another $5k because there are still issues, you will get rid of it because it's not enjoyable.... If you want power and money is no object, buy a new C8 Corvette and call it good.
 

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A big wheel will give you about 300WHP or 350/350 BHP/Torque, it can be tweak a bit for a maybe an additional 10-15 BHP.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
That's not what I was getting it Partrick. And from the posts you made early on, you know nothing about cars. Unless it can be as reliable as a normal, non-modded GXP, you WILL at some point have to work on it. You yourself just said there are not reliable shops in Georgia. Here's my prediction if you do this. You will have it built. In a year after spending another $5k because there are still issues, you will get rid of it because it's not enjoyable.... If you want power and money is no object, buy a new C8 Corvette and call it good.
Thanks, but I dont like Corvettes, Dodge or Mustangs... not my type
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Anyway, I guess this discussion is done... there are pros and cons, of course, we are re-building our cars. If it works or not, long or short term doesn't matter, everything is replaceable and fixable.
Special thanks to those who share their knowledge and solstice parts with me, I will definitely follow your path and see what worked best!
(y)
 

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You should take a look at this thread on the big wheel turbo conversion on sbindley's car (click on the quote to go to the thread)


On a Mustang dyno they got 324 whp and 343 Tq. The usual conversion factor is about 0.85. Caveat - no two dynos measure identically - they are great as a diagnostic before/after measurement.

He was getting 246 whp 241 wtq on a GMPP tuned car prior to the big wheel conversion which GM rated at 290 bhp and 290 Tq, so in that case the conversion factor was very close to that 0.85.
 

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Hmm, I wont build it, it will happen in shop and they should know what they are doing. I just wish, we had good performance shops in Georgia for Pontiacs. Its very limited here.
Other option is to take it to Florida, I think there are a good shops for tunes.

https://sandmautomotive.com/services/
https://www.facebook.com/speedlineperformancefl
https://www.facebook.com/Corkys-Muscle-Car-Performance-227958817225931
https://www.brothersperformance.com/
https://www.americanmotorsports.net/
https://www.extremeperformance.biz/
etc.
Hann Racecraft is located in Daytona Beach I have their turbo kit and a Bill Hann tune and am extremely pleased with it .
 

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I know I’m a little late to the party and since you said money is no object you might as well spend it to make it bulletproof. I haven’t been on here in a few years mainly because ours was just a summer car but I’m back because it’s now a daily driver. Anyway, I’ve glanced at a few threads about power and what the stock motor can handle. I can tell you from personal experience I’ve seen a solstice at a track run high 11’s. Only upgrades I remember were turbo, tune, intercooler, exhaust, injectors, clutch. It still had stock internals. I’d see him off and on for a couple years and it was his daily driver from what I overheard. I only saw him coming and going at the track. It put down somewhere around 400 or a little more at the wheels.
 
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