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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok
Got about 28k on her
But having problems with starting , not sure if it just bad battery or something else. Put key in step on clutch and try to start and nothing
Do this several time and finally it starts. Seems to run fine. But last night it did same thing but when started it ran like sh t. Shut off and tryed again it started after two trys and ran fine. Drove around ended up with flat, would not pump up had to get jack from harbor freight thank goodness it was not far only across one major road but across two parking lot ( that really scared me)
Jack car enough to get tire up off ground and moved tire in and out and finally she caught ! Filled tire and fired her up drove on highway and stopped to vote and came out and would not start after five trys finally started drove home and parked her . In morning tire still had air in it!
Anyone else have these starting problems?
 

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That sounds like quite a bit of problems in one run roadstar30.

Okay so you had a flat, you seem to have fixed that. One problem solved.

Car not starting up, well that could be caused by many factors.
- Are there any lights that come on when you do get your car started or try to get it started?
- Maybe something under your hood is not properly connected?
- Could be battery, but I'm no battery expert. (could be this issue though: Engine Lock-Out)

Any further information? Do you drive the car regularly? Becuase 28k on a 07' is more mileage than mine but I drive mine daily without issues (auto trans, however).

My suggestion: First scan the OBDII for faults and then proceed to the rest of this Battery Good- No Go
 

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Hey bud, so when it does turn over and start, is it a slow turn over like a dead battery or is it nothing, nothing, nothing and then totally fine? If the 2nd then Id take a look at the pin switch to the clutch pedal. However, that would not affect operation. almost sounds like your alternator and battery combo issues. You might want to see if the battery terminals are loose and or dirty. and is this a sudden problem? did you recently get a bunch of rain or something?
 

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roadstar30,

I am sorry you are having this concern. If you choose to have your GM dealership look into this, please do not hesitate to reach out to me for assistance.

Erica Tiffany
GM Customer Care
 

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Battery

The car is fly by wire for most systems. A failing / low battery will start the car but not provide sufficient voltage to allow all subsystems to boot correctly and on time. Lots of strange and inconsistent behavior can and will result. If you are having problems with starting and warning lights, and you do not use a battery tender, look very closely at the battery and battery cabling. Including the engine ground wire on the left front of the engine.
 

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Well, Rob's car might be fly by wire, mine is a drive by wire. (He's packing a bigger engine than most, so the flight thing seems perfectly feasible.)

I'm with Rob on the battery. Also remember you have a "frankenstarter" on these - you hit the key to "start" and the computer takes over - you don't even have to hold it in the start position. Works like a remote starter, cranks until it sees a certain rpm, etc. As Rob said, if the battery voltage is low you can get a lot of really strange crap happening - same with the ground strap. Microprocessor controls use ground as the basis for everything so if it's not absolute zero, things can get nuckin' futty.

TX had my second suggestion - the interlock switch on the clutch. If it's not being made the starter won't engage. I've had them fail/wear on other manuals in the past.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok so possible it a battery only issue !
The pin switch is very suspect for sure
Anybody have that part number i would just replace it with new one either way!
Hoping this will take care of that problem , gooding to put new rubber on her guess its going to be sooner then later! Whats the best way to clean the inside bead of my painted rims maybe they are pitted or corroded, could be why i loose air when weather changing to cold
Thanks for all you guys and gals input
 

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Original battery roadstar? If so I'd start there and replace it anyway. If you don't do it now, you'll do it soon. Then proceed to the switch.

Are your rims stock aluminum? The pitting is always a concern. The tech manuals have a callout for the sealant to be used on the bead. My manuals are a hundred feet away and it's raining (and I'm a pansy) so I can't look it up right now. Even the service manuals suggest having some of this type of thing done by a tire/wheel shop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Chickenwire
Yes they are
Ill look at my manual and check it out
I was thinking of having the tires removed and i will clean up bead and spay with new paint on bead first
Then have new tires installed
 

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Road - the manuals I'm talking about are the 3 volume service manual - not the owners. I think the rain stopped - I'll hike out to get the specifics!
 

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No scanner, so you get this transcription typos and all.

GMP/08-M-3 2008 M-Car Service Manual

Volume 3 of 3

16-60 Tires and Wheels

Repair Instructions
Aluminum Wheel Porosity Repair.

1. Remove the tire and wheel.
2. Inflate the tire to the manufacturers specified pressure as stated ont he tire.
3. Submerge the tire/wheel into a water bath in order to locate the leak.
4. Inscribe a mark on the wheel in order to indicate the leak areas.
5. Inscribe a mark on the tire at the valve stem in order to indicate the orientation of the tire to the wheel.
6. Remove the tire from the wheel.
7. User number 80 grit sandpaper to scuff the inside of the rim surface at the leak area.
8. User general purpose cleaner such as 3M P/N 08984 or quivalent to clean the leak area.
9. Apply 3mm (0.12 in) thick layer of adhesive/sealant, GM P/N 12378478 or equivalent to the leak area.
10. Allow for the adhesive/sealant to dry.
11. Align the inscribed mark on the tire with the valve stem n the wheel.
12. Install the tire to the wheel.
13. Inflate the tire to the manufacturers specified pressure....

blah de blah de blah.
 

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The wheels are probably damaged from salt brine. Buff the beads and use a good bead sealer. Unplug the clutch switch and run a jumper wire to see if that makes a difference. Most parts store will do a load test on the battery for free.
 

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I had some old wheels and one was pitted and leaked. I had the tire pulled off and I took my drill and sanding disk and roughed it up real good, then put a decent sized layer of clear RTV on it, let it dry over night and never had a problem. any battery that is 5+ years old needs to be considered. It may start today but it will leave you stranded tomorrow and cold weather makes it worse. Back to the switch, I bought a new Eclipse and the 1st week I had it I added a couple amps and sub box. got it all wired up and it sounded great and went to start the car and Nada? spent a few minutes checking everything and come to find out, I bent the bracket that the clutch switch was mounted to. just by looking, the switch appeared fine but once I got down there and looked at it and pushed the clutch in by hand, I saw where it was bent just enough to mis the bracket. I'm sure it can easily be bent with your foot if you are not careful. Moral of the story: If something does not work, it's usually the last thing you did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yeah but this is been going on for a little while, going to clean battery. Termals first and tighten up good to be sure its not that put new battery in her and then if that fails go to that switch last
Tires are on the agenda next so l will deal with that when the time comes
I beleive i will sand beads down first and respray with a good alum. Primer and coat with a silver than coat with a 3 m product as said here in the forum
 

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Yeah but this is been going on for a little while, going to clean battery. Termals first and tighten up good to be sure its not that put new battery in her and then if that fails go to that switch last
Tires are on the agenda next so l will deal with that when the time comes
I beleive i will sand beads down first and respray with a good alum. Primer and coat with a silver than coat with a 3 m product as said here in the forum
If the terminals are corroded, then you probably need a new battery, but if they're not corroded, I might hold off. Changing the battery is probably not as easy as you think. You have to partially remove the passenger side fender.
 

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If you have a volt meter hook it up to the battery while the car is running. Should pull about 14 to 14.4 volts while running, if it is lower you have a battery going out most likely. Like Rob said, there are a ton of things that go on as soon as you start the car and this is also when most juice is pulled from the battery. If there isn't enough juice even after it started problems will occur. A bad battery will also not allow the alternator to replace a charge once started or not take and hold a charge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
As of now I going with the switch repair, just got to remove the old one first to see what one I have since there too listings for 2007's
Seems as I keep turning the key on and off she starts so don't think the battery is the problem as much as the switch. Battery is in line for change since I have no idea how old it is! There s no date on it but it is a delco gm battery so thinking it original
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
If the terminals are corroded, then you probably need a new battery, but if they're not corroded, I might hold off. Changing the battery is probably not as easy as you think. You have to partially remove the passenger side fender.
Well terminals are clean as a whistle! But I checked that theory are tight and they are. Going in for the switch replacement operation.
 
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