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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, did some searching, couldn't find that much that applied.
I bought a 2008 solstice from a guy who said it seemed like it was having trouble starting and then stopped starting altogether. He had someone replace the starter and alternator. It still did not start.

I ran a jumper to the starter solenoid,directly to the battery, with the key in the on position, and the car will start and run fine for a few seconds, then cuts off immediately.

So the fact that it cuts off immediately kind of tells me it's not the ignition it's not a start relay or a fuse. Because once it was started it would keep running if those were the problem. So I'm having this feeling it's related to the computer. Have any thoughts on that?
I also haven't been able to connect to the computer with my OBD2 scanner, even though I can connect to my other vehicles fine again, pointing to a possible issue with wiring or the computer. Do the computers go bad in these cars? I also see mentions of ecm's and bcm's, are they separate modules and could either cause this issue?

The car and lock symbol go out after the key is in for a little while, so I don't think it's the security system. When the key is in the crank position the only light that is illuminated is the check engine light.

One further detail that maybe worth mentioning is that it has an aftermarket stereo which I saw the adapters for can go bad which could cause a no start.

If nobody has any ideas on what I should check, if any one would be able to point me towards any troubleshooting info, wiring diagrams and manuals for these cars I'd appreciate that info as well.

Thank you for your time reading this post and for having a forum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I took a picture of the cluster with the key in the on position. The check engine, brake, abs, tcs, low fuel, and airbag light are on, like I said when you turn the key to crank the check engine light is the only one on.

Is the fuel gauge normally at empty if the car isn't running. It'd be nuts if somehow it was also out of gas...and that's why it cuts out after a few seconds...I'm probably going to put in a few gallons to be safe....
 

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I took a picture of the cluster with the key in the on position. The check engine, brake, abs, tcs, low fuel, and airbag light are on, like I said when you turn the key to crank the check engine light is the only one on.

Is the fuel gauge normally at empty if the car isn't running. It'd be nuts if somehow it was also out of gas...and that's why it cuts out after a few seconds...I'm probably going to put in a few gallons to be safe....
Filling up would be the absolute first thing I would do in your troubleshooting journey.

Barring that, if you really are not having the passlock (car with padlock) light on after turning the key to the KOEO (key on engine off) position, you might have key cylinder or wiring problems.

You might want to put some gas in and try again, the come here and report back. There are a lot of knowledgeable people here that can walk you through some tests to identify the cause of your issue.
 

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You have checked the battery for at rest voltage? These cars seem very sensitive to battery condition and replacing the alternator makes me wonder why. As said, start with the most simple and obvious, which, as any DIY guy knows, is the most difficult thing to do when we want to go deep into the dark side immediately.

Good luck with this and, yes, PLEASE report back. Too many people have a problem, get a ton of good advice whereupon one bit cures their problem and they fall off the planet. Makes reinventing the wheel worse than US politics. ;)

Richard Snipes
 

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Hello, did some searching, couldn't find that much that applied.
I bought a 2008 solstice from a guy who said it seemed like it was having trouble starting and then stopped starting altogether. He had someone replace the starter and alternator. It still did not start.

I ran a jumper to the starter solenoid,directly to the battery, with the key in the on position, and the car will start and run fine for a few seconds, then cuts off immediately.

So the fact that it cuts off immediately kind of tells me it's not the ignition it's not a start relay or a fuse. Because once it was started it would keep running if those were the problem. So I'm having this feeling it's related to the computer. Have any thoughts on that?
I also haven't been able to connect to the computer with my OBD2 scanner, even though I can connect to my other vehicles fine again, pointing to a possible issue with wiring or the computer. Do the computers go bad in these cars? I also see mentions of ecm's and bcm's, are they separate modules and could either cause this issue?

The car and lock symbol go out after the key is in for a little while, so I don't think it's the security system. When the key is in the crank position the only light that is illuminated is the check engine light.

One further detail that maybe worth mentioning is that it has an aftermarket stereo which I saw the adapters for can go bad which could cause a no start.

If nobody has any ideas on what I should check, if any one would be able to point me towards any troubleshooting info, wiring diagrams and manuals for these cars I'd appreciate that info as well.

Thank you for your time reading this post and for having a forum.
I had the same issue in July. I was without my car for 4 weeks: had it towed to Dueck GM in Vancouver. They said it was the 'computer'. Waited 2 weeks to get one. They installed it and claimed that the new one one is faulty. They ordered anothe one. I picked up the car and drove it for 2 days before it would randomly not start (like the first times) then wouldn't start at all. Check engine light came on, all other systems worked fine. Anyways, they did not replace the computer a 3rd time, but kept the car for a few days of further diagnosis. They hinted at clutch switch and starter switch possibilities. Rather mysterious finale. It runs and starts great now. Another veteran GM mechanic suggested that it was never the computer in the first place. Hmmm.
 

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2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
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Is it a manual or an auto?
I was having weird clutch issues and found thr nut on the engine firewall side had come loose.
Not a panacea solution but an easy and free check to make…
The 10mm nut is right here behind and below the reservoir against the firewall.
If it is an automatic, never mind :)
Hood Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Automotive fuel system Gas
 

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This is going to be an electrical issue.

The key is more then likely has not been programmed to the vehicle and the reason why it shuts down is being caused by that. But we need to get past the reason why it is not cranking in the first place.

If this is a manual transmission vehicle the problem is more then likely the clutch pedal position switch under the dashboard. It is attached to the clutch pedal and if you have a volt ohm meter we can test and see if it is working properly. You cannot bypass this switch it MUST be replaced.

If you stick the key in the ignition and turn i to on watch the lights on the dash. If you see a lock lamp and it's flashing rapidly that means the key is not coded to the vehicle. Let me know about that lock light and I will send you the instructions to program the key in a PM. Once we get the key issue taken care of then I will walk you through how to test other circuits that might be causing the no crank problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey guys, thanks for the responses. The car is an automatic.

Also I took it to the gas station on the trailer and it only took 5 gallons. Does not mean that the fuel pump is not weak.

But again this is a no-crank situation. So it would be highly coincidental that it has an issue preventing it from cranking and a fuel pump issue.

I will restate that the car will crank and start and run normal sounding if started by directly applying power to the starter solenoid.
Typically when you start something by jumpering power to the starter solenoid it will continue to run after starting even if there is a problem in the starting circuit, but this car dies after running for a few seconds it does not sputter out just stops like spark or fuel is cut, as if you turned off the ignition.

I think I will check all the grounds, and fuel pressure as the next course of action when I get time for that.

Thank you again for your input!
 

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It's not your battery.

Automatic is going to have a neutral/park switch in the transmission and also a gear selector switch. If one or both of these do not report the car being in neutral or park it is NOT going to crank. It is easy to test these things. Don't put any more money into it and lets go over some of the simple things first and actually do a diagnostic instead of throwing money at it and just replacing parts until ya get lucky. That's not a great way to repair a car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
This is going to be an electrical issue.

The key is more then likely has not been programmed to the vehicle and the reason why it shuts down is being caused by that. But we need to get past the reason why it is not cranking in the first place.

If this is a manual transmission vehicle the problem is more then likely the clutch pedal position switch under the dashboard. It is attached to the clutch pedal and if you have a volt ohm meter we can test and see if it is working properly. You cannot bypass this switch it MUST be replaced.

If you stick the key in the ignition and turn i to on watch the lights on the dash. If you see a lock lamp and it's flashing rapidly that means the key is not coded to the vehicle. Let me know about that lock light and I will send you the instructions to program the key in a PM. Once we get the key issue taken care of then I will walk you through how to test other circuits that might be causing the no crank problem.
So as I stated the passlock symbol goes out as normal, but yes that is what I would believe given the symptoms. Thank you for your well reasoned reply. I need to go through the three things I mentioned fuel pressure, check grounds, and charge battery before I can get back to you guys. I should be able to do those things Tuesday night. I really do appreciate the ideas guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
It's not your battery.

Automatic is going to have a neutral/park switch in the transmission and also a gear selector switch. If one or both of these do not report the car being in neutral or park it is NOT going to crank. It is easy to test these things. Don't put any more money into it and lets go over some of the simple things first and actually do a diagnostic instead of throwing money at it and just replacing parts until ya get lucky. That's not a great way to repair a car.
I totally agree with you sir!
 

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The other thing is when you are bypassing the startup sequence by jumping the starter solenoid the TDM has NOT been instructed to send the fuel continue password so it is not going to do that. You cannot start the car and have it stay running by jumping the solenoid unless the key is turned to start at the exact same time that you jump the starter solenoid. This way the TDM is going to know to transmit the fuel continue password to the BCM. If you have 2 people you can try doing that and see if the vehicle stays running. It should if you get the timing correct. TDM = Theft Deterrent Module which is the passkey 3 and passlock 2 controller.
 

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Now I know this is going to sound stupid but have you check to see if your brake light come on when you step on the brakes? If they do not this will cause a no crank condition on the vehicle. I believe the key has to be turned to the ON position for the brake lights to come on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The other thing is when you are bypassing the startup sequence by jumping the starter solenoid the TDM has NOT been instructed to send the fuel continue password so it is not going to do that. You cannot start the car and have it stay running by jumping the solenoid unless the key is turned to start at the exact same time that you jump the starter solenoid. This way the TDM is going to know to transmit the fuel continue password to the BCM. If you have 2 people you can try doing that and see if the vehicle stays running. It should if you get the timing correct. TDM = Theft Deterrent Module which is the passkey 3 and passlock 2 controller.
That makes sense, so it could still easily be a relay or shift interlock etc. I appreciate the knowledge. That's the thing, I am an engineer and can work on anything from first principles, but when control modules get involved if you don't know the logic within them, you are flying blind...
 
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