08 Sky Redline, 5M
Took out 5lbs of sound deadener:
Took out 5lbs of sound deadener:
|91280A747||Medium-Strength Class 8.8 Steel Hex Head Screw, Zinc-Plated, M12 x 1.75 mm Thread, 140 mm Long, Packs of 5|
|91280A747||Medium-Strength Class 8.8 Steel Hex Head Screw, Zinc-Plated, M12 x 1.75 mm Thread, 160 mm Long, Packs of 5|
|91280A747||Extended-Length Drill Bit, Uncoated High-Speed Steel, 15/32" Size, 12" Overall Length|
|90576A119||Medium-Strength Steel Nylon-Insert Locknut, Class 8, Zinc Plated, M12 x 1.75 mm Thread, 12 mm High, Packs of 50|
I told him about that issue like 10 years ago, can't believe he didn't fix it.Issue #2 was that I got the rear adapters back, and they were good ... except they did not sit flush onto the brake rotor. I noticed there is a little lip on the rear wheel hub nose, and it was touching the adapater where the inner bore had a small radius. The radius was too small. So that needed re-machined a little larger.
Caliper clearance is not directly related to offset. It has to do with the shape of the spokes. I've got two different sets of wheels with 41mm and 42mm offset and Brembos, with no spacers. Quite a few threads at Cobalt SS sites with folks looking for aftermarket wheels that work. Some work, some don't. I made a carboard template with the shape of the caliper and hub for when I was looking at wheels to get me in the ballpark.I am pretty sure that you only need a 12mm spacer (1/2") when using stock wheels. when using aftermarket wheels the thickness of the spacer is going to be determined by the offset the wheel has. I think the stock offset is 55mm. so if the aftermarket wheel has an offset of 67mm no spacer is going to need to be used.
I re-cut both the inboard radius and outboard hub rings on mine, as well as the entire OD, and a skim cut all the way across the front face to get them to fit like I wanted/needed. The only thing I didn't touch was the bolt patterns. But ordering from him was cheaper than just getting aluminum blanks and tooling in the size I needed, and saved me a few hours on the bridgeport.I told him about that issue like 10 years ago, can't believe he didn't fix it.
Stainless lines don't do anything other than add some durability, heat resistance, and bling. They have all the stiffness of one of those paper Chinese-finger-trap kids toys2021.03.08: Brakes done
... Not stainless, I don't know that it matters that much to me as long as the hoses work. ...
Stress on the wheel bearing is determined by the relationship between the center of the tire's contact patch and the center of the bearing. Regardless of how you get there, whether by changing the wheel/tire width, the wheel offset, or by using a spacer, moving the contact patch outboard is going to increase the bearing load by the same amount..........
I am curious to know how much additional stress is put onto the wheel bearing by using spacers, I am going to try and figure that out.
Wouldn't that depend on the specific brake line? I agree that the difference is minimal for modern lines, but the materials are not usually the same. OE brake lines are normally EPDM with rayon reinforcement, while the stainless lines that I have used have a very thin teflon tube reinforced with stainless braid. The EPDM is thicker and more compressible than the teflon, and the rayon is somewhat more elastic than the stainless when cold, and moreso when hot. Combined, those factors result in a difference in volume change under pressure that is measurable in the lab, but is unlikely to be noticeable in any but the most extreme driving conditions.........
Stainless lines don't do anything other than add some durability, heat resistance, and bling. They have all the stiffness of one of those paper Chinese-finger-trap kids toys and use the exact same rubber hose underneath for the bits that matter. The reason people claim they make a difference is because changing them forced them to simultaneously change out their old junk brake fluid.
Absolutely correct about the different construction for different hoses intended for different applications. Aeroquip currently lists 41 different hose constuctions with a variety of liners, reinforcements, and jackets in various combinations. And we definitely don't need -8 for brakes!@JohnWR I never paid much attention to materials and you're correct in that they are different, at least in the smaller sizes. Larger hydraulic hoses still look like they might be the same, or much more similar at least, but you probably don't use a lot of -8 hose on your car.
I just red-neck slapped some calipers across a rubber line and an off-the-shelf braided line with and without someone standing on the brake pedal and concluded that the difference in expansion was well within the margin of error in my set-up, and assuming you stay within the safe operating temperatures of everything involved.
Ironically, the lines we use at work now have an additional black PVC sheath overtop of the stainless weave, so once again actual "race car" components look more like regular OE components and less like an expensive, shiny object.