[ConeHugger01]

@KG I'm not sure I understand that process. Do you have a picture? What's the advantage? For autocross, aerodynamics as in reducing drag, is not really a large concern for me.

@shabby I might hit those bolts all up with some paint, it's easy enough to do.

 

[kgschlosser]

@ConeHugger01

I was joking about the aerodynamics, hence the goofy face. It would make a difference, but the gain would be almost unmeasurable. It not getting hung up on something would be more of a reason to use studs instead of bolts.

I made this just now so you can see what I am talking about. you would want to use a stiff thin mechanics wire, I used a piece of electrical wire with blue insulation so it is easier to see.

This works for pulling a stud in because the knurl diameter is always larger then the threaded diameter.

This is a wonderful thing when you want to bolt something to the frame on a vehicle. Push the spring end into the hole that you drilled and slide it down the frame and out the end of the frame or out a hole you can get the stud through. Screw the stud onto the spring and pull it into the frame and into the hole you drilled.

 

[wmf246]

Maybe should of used galvanized nuts and bolts for exterior?

spray galvanizing and/or some GOOD rust proofing paint. or, some spray undercoating

Bill

 

[kgschlosser]

@ConeHugger01

Ya like that trick to get a stud pulled into what would normally be considered an impossible place to get to? It would also work with a bolt tho you would have to have a spring type lock washer on it and use an impact to tighten the nut. Taking the bolt out on the other hand might be challenging if you cannot get to the back side of it.

 

[ConeHugger01]

2021.04.03: Wheels, lugs.

Tires test fitted. The wheels were a tight fit on the front wheels, there was a lot of friction to push them on even partway. I took a dremel sanding cylinder to the outer edge of the hub nose to clean it off. It only needed about 0.1mm removed for a better fit.

Lug nuts: Supplied from Motorsport-Tech stubby nuts have 6/7 threads; short size from Advanced Auto (Dorman) have 10/11 threads, Trans Am lugs with the outside threads for "fancy lugnut covers" have 13/14 threads. Stock Sky lugnuts are in the 9/10 range.

The medium length are perfect for the rear adapters. Notably both the stock Sky wheels and my BC wheels have recesses behind the areas between lug holes.

In other news, I got the front bumper better aligned and tightened up. Hopefully no need to take it off again for a while. The wheel well covers were reinstalled, using screws and flat nuts instead of the single-use christmas trees/push plugs.

 

[ConeHugger01]

If you're a Solstice/Sky purist, do NOT look at this next picture! You've been warned! This will make you upset or sad.

good lord this thing is heavy!

 

[shabby]

Don't forget to roll the fenders in the back, the fender has a sharp edge if it touches the tire it'll cut it.

 

[kgschlosser]

a baseball bat makes short work of rolling the fenders.

 

[ConeHugger01]

2021.04.11 Brake Redux and Seating

I really needed to get shorter brake hoses after putting the sway bar back on the car and seeing how close it was. I did a poor job of estimating how much longer I needed. Bottom line is that if you put on the Brembo calipers, you need no longer than 16 inches, from tip to tip of hose. Given a hose has from 1/4 to 1/2 inch fitting past the mounting bracket, the bracket to hose banjo is 15.5 or so, no more. If you get them custom made, I'd say you should ask for 15.75 inches tip to tip.

• Inspect the banjo fittings carefully, if they bend them by themselves as your shop. One set I got had a slight pull from getting a near 90 degree bend on too short of a stem, and it deformed the banjo head. I had to take a long time to both compress with a grade 8 bolt, and file the un-flush face very gently, to where I was comfortable that I could mount them without overtorqueing an aluminum caliper. Copper washers are malleable but not to an extreme degree without a lot of force.
• Check the clocking of the chassis side fitting, if it's asymmetrical. The first set I got had a generic "no clock" fitting that was round, and not ideal as it required 2 wrenches to tighten or loosen the line (as your getting brake fluid dribbled on your hand, not fun and very slippery). The second set I got had a "Toyota" fitting which was like a hex but 2 rounded sides. This didn't fit as it was too big, and I needed to round a different side in order to clock the banjo head to the right orientation. I can't say how to clock it, you need to take the bracket, or just accept you'll need to grind it, if you get this fitting type.
• I also put plastic wire loom around the hose as a protective sleeve.
• I also rounded the ends of the swaybar to remove the possibility they would catch the hose by a corner of the bar.

The passenger side seat bracket is done and the seat is in. Saved 5 pounds by using a different design. No foward/back adjustability at all though.

Now it can get test driven and inspected, and ready to roll!

I think also along the way I replaced the intercooler silicone hoses to be able to push the aluminum tubes down further, they were touching the hood. Got some by the inch for really cheap, you just have to search. A Kappa vendor was "out of stock" and that seemed odd as its so ubituquous.

I got a set of junkyard hood vent ornaments, and had to dechrome them by hand (easy) and warm one up a hellalot to take the incorrect bend out of it, was probably bent in a crash or something. Made a nifty way to unbolt them from the hood for autocross ventilation with some clip-nuts.


Sway bar:

Sad banjo fitting:

Brackets:

Faces covered to protect the innocent, haha! My wife is actually a great help.

 

[ConeHugger01]

2021.04.12 Weight savings

I think I've saved just a hair between everything removed and added back. Net Ø would be fine with me, but I think I might be net -20 or so given my estimates.

I'd seriously consider a lighter muffler, that thing is a yuge anchor behind the rear axle. I still gotta drive this a bunch first!

 

[kgschlosser]

if you want to tighten up the suspension some you can drill the ends of the sway bar so the link attaches further in. you want the hole to be right next to it with maybe 1/4" space between the existing hole and the new hole. From a guess it should tighten up the body roll by 10-15% or so maybe a little more.