so one of the backlights went out today. just wondering if its a simple bulb replacement after the cluster has been removed or is there soldering involved? ive seen the "how to's" on taking the panel piece off and getting to the cluster, but nothing specific about actually replacing one of the bulbs...
A/C fan knob backlight replacement help
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Here's a thread you will find useful.
http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f62/backlight-c-fan-knob-died-69968/
http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f62/backlight-c-fan-knob-died-69968/
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ILux - the first link that Sly posted explains the 3 round black items along the top of the circuit board are the sockets for the bulbs. 1/4 turn counter clockwise will allow them to come out. The bulb then pushes into the socket. I'll grab my shop manuals and see if they list the bulb number.
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No listing for the bulb number in my manuals. Did find another post that confirms they are replaceable.
http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f12/how-take-out-instrument-panel-light-bulbs-67580/
http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f12/how-take-out-instrument-panel-light-bulbs-67580/
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Another consideration - I'd be shocked if it's not the same bulb number listed here:
Climate control/radio button lamp replacement - Car Forums and Automotive Chat
Climate control/radio button lamp replacement - Car Forums and Automotive Chat
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Heck. Buy a set of 'em.
Light Bulbs for 2006 2009 Pontiac Solstice Heater Climate Control Backlight | eBay
Just remember that the Sky, Hummer and probably a few other vehicles are using the same HVAC set up. The bulbs may be a different color (or have a different color cap as stated in some of the links in other posts above.
These on e-bay look like they're the right ones - just need to use the red caps on the existing bulb you are replacing.
Light Bulbs for 2006 2009 Pontiac Solstice Heater Climate Control Backlight | eBay
Just remember that the Sky, Hummer and probably a few other vehicles are using the same HVAC set up. The bulbs may be a different color (or have a different color cap as stated in some of the links in other posts above.
These on e-bay look like they're the right ones - just need to use the red caps on the existing bulb you are replacing.
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They are definately replaceable, as I said in my response in the thread link SlyBob posted and CW noted. However, the parts fiche doesn't seem to have a part number, so the dealer won't do it for you - they want to replace the whole controller (aggh!).
The most difficult part is getting the back off the controller. It's clipped-in with about 30 barb-and-hole clips around its circumference.... you'll need a bunch of screwdrivers and work your way around the outside prying all the way.
Once it's off, the bulbs are bayonet mounted (1/4 turn & pull). Take one to a parts place and see if you can get a replacement. Else replace just the bulb in it's mount with something from RadioShack.
UPDATE: CW's multitude of responses cross-posted while I did mine...
The most difficult part is getting the back off the controller. It's clipped-in with about 30 barb-and-hole clips around its circumference.... you'll need a bunch of screwdrivers and work your way around the outside prying all the way.
Once it's off, the bulbs are bayonet mounted (1/4 turn & pull). Take one to a parts place and see if you can get a replacement. Else replace just the bulb in it's mount with something from RadioShack.
UPDATE: CW's multitude of responses cross-posted while I did mine...
I checked that part number, it's NOT the same bulb - different fitting and it's colored yellow. (Ours are plain bulbs - no tint.)
Those ones might fit, but they're not exactly the same. I'd try a physical comparison in local parts places, like I said. There are no colored caps/tint on these particular bulbs (unlike many/most of the other backlights in our cars) so no need to worry about that - but DON'T get pre-tinted bulbs!
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Yeah, I love that "you have to replace the whole unit" approach. I'm down the ladder in the automotive supply chain so I understand the costs involved in inventorying millions of replacement parts (and the pricing structure for service parts.) But it's like I taught my son, you'll pay someone for what you don't know.
Had a 97 Ford F150 which I loved. The windshield washer was a push button on the end of the turn signal stalk and it started failing intermittently. The vehicle was out of warranty so I popped like $150 to have it replaced - the whole stalk and switch assembly. Brought the old part home, popped the cap off of the end and saw the brass contact was flattened out. Restored the "curve" on it with a screwdriver and put it on the shelf.
4 years later the wife's daycare van started the same thing. Since it was the same stalk I just popped the shroud off of the steering column and replaced the stalk. (And saved myself $150.)
Had a 97 Ford F150 which I loved. The windshield washer was a push button on the end of the turn signal stalk and it started failing intermittently. The vehicle was out of warranty so I popped like $150 to have it replaced - the whole stalk and switch assembly. Brought the old part home, popped the cap off of the end and saw the brass contact was flattened out. Restored the "curve" on it with a screwdriver and put it on the shelf.
4 years later the wife's daycare van started the same thing. Since it was the same stalk I just popped the shroud off of the steering column and replaced the stalk. (And saved myself $150.)
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OK, since this issue is likely going to start to happen to a lot of Solsticii and Skys out there as they begin to age, I went rooting through my storeroom to find my spare Heat/AC controller and pulled it apart to give folks more info on the bulbs.
First, to get to the controller, you'll have to remove your boomerang (or whatever dash piece serves in the Sky). The controller is attached from the back with four 7mm hex-head screws.
Then, as mentioned before, you'll need to lever out the back of the controller, which is held in with 10 clip-tabs: 4 top and bottom and one on each side. See the photo and the yellow arrows indicating the 4 at the top...
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Once that's off, the bulbs are shown here in the blue circles. 1/4 turn counter-clockwise and pull out - reverse to re-install. Once you've replaced the busted bulbs and want to put the back back on, make sure you align the fan speed knob arm with the switch arm (red circles) or you'll have no fan control
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Finally, I still don't know what a correct replacement bulb is, but the following shows the dimensions of the bulb and its carrier, along with (measured) filament resistance and current. If someone finds an exact replacement, please add the details to this thread!
![]()
First, to get to the controller, you'll have to remove your boomerang (or whatever dash piece serves in the Sky). The controller is attached from the back with four 7mm hex-head screws.
Then, as mentioned before, you'll need to lever out the back of the controller, which is held in with 10 clip-tabs: 4 top and bottom and one on each side. See the photo and the yellow arrows indicating the 4 at the top...
Once that's off, the bulbs are shown here in the blue circles. 1/4 turn counter-clockwise and pull out - reverse to re-install. Once you've replaced the busted bulbs and want to put the back back on, make sure you align the fan speed knob arm with the switch arm (red circles) or you'll have no fan control
Finally, I still don't know what a correct replacement bulb is, but the following shows the dimensions of the bulb and its carrier, along with (measured) filament resistance and current. If someone finds an exact replacement, please add the details to this thread!
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There are a few bulbs on this page that have similar bases and look like they might work.
Autolumination Instrument Panel Light Bulbs & Lamps)
Does the bulb come out of the base? It'll be easier to find a bare bulb than one with a specific base.
Autolumination Instrument Panel Light Bulbs & Lamps)
Does the bulb come out of the base? It'll be easier to find a bare bulb than one with a specific base.
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Not without a soldering iron. The photo's not brilliant, but you may just be able to see the two solder points on the bottom.
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Nice write up, TS. (Saved me from ripping open my dash again, lol)
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Yep. Certainly looks like the same base.... the question is, is it the same bulb filament/power?
No identifying marks on the ones I have.
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Oh, they have the true filament bulbs too (scroll down the page). I wouldn't use those LEDs in this application, I doubt they're bright and dispersed enough - likey just get a hotspot.
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Hmmm, the button only illuminates around the edge of the knob if I remember correctly right? I'd be tempted to try a wide ange LED in there and see what the results are. Ozmium sells these and they are 10mm or 3/8” across.
http://www.oznium.com/corvette-c5-led
Or from SuperbrightLED and they have great drawings and pictures there as well.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/more...gauge/neox-led-bulb-instrument-panel-led/220/
EBAY has a listing for the regular bulbs too but they say to replace them all as they may be a different brightness.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Light-Bulbs...t=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item56541c8453&vxp=mtr
http://www.oznium.com/corvette-c5-led
Or from SuperbrightLED and they have great drawings and pictures there as well.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/more...gauge/neox-led-bulb-instrument-panel-led/220/
EBAY has a listing for the regular bulbs too but they say to replace them all as they may be a different brightness.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Light-Bulbs...t=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item56541c8453&vxp=mtr
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