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Even though the light has gone off you should read the codes. Whatever caused the light to be on will be listed as an "Historic Code", and will tell you if you solved the problem with the new gas cap (you probably did) or if it is an intermittent problem that may come back.

You didn't have abnormal temperatures, so you didn't have a bubble and no, opening the cap will not purge the bubbles if there are any. Remember, you should never open that cap with the engine hot.



Except for the fact that you need hot coolant to heat the air significantly, the temperature of the engine doesn't affect the temperature of the air. That is, the air will not be heated because the engine is overtemperature unless it was already being heated.

The air through the vents will always be somewhat warmer than ambient air if the engine has been running recently or if the car has been sitting in the sun because it is entering the car over the warm hood, and traveling through an airbox that is adjacent to the hot engine compartment.

The blend door can fail intermittently, although that seems to be rare.



I am going to disagree slightly with Bob on this one and say "maybe" and "it depends".

Paint on the front face will, as he said, have zero effect on the efficiency of the cooler, but paint between the fins might. It depends on how much there is, and what it is doing. If it is only a small area it isn't enough to worry about in any case, and anything on the plenums or pipes at each end can be ignored. A light coat on the surface of the fins isn't going to make a significant difference either, but if it has blocked the openings between them it starts to become an issue. Again, it is a matter of degree and, from your description Bob is correct and there is nothing to worry about.

If it really bothers you, paint is relatively easy to remove.



Enjoy the car and, again, welcome.
Hey John,

Thanks for clarifying those things. Ordered a bluedriver scanner and plugged it in today (code has been off since I mentioned it). Couldn't find a historic code section of the app, but did get these two codes (CEL is not on however):

P0100 & P0102 - both identified as mass and/or volume air sensor related.

I'm assuming these are current issue codes, as the gas cap would have triggered a different code correct? Also since the light was on, now it's not etc. I think I screwed myself though in finally being able to scan the car AFTER replacing the dirty paper filter with a k&n (new out the box, did not add oil or anything). I did replace it from the side, barely lifting the cover once detached, careful not to stretch or break the nipple. I made sure the filter fit properly.

In regards to the blend door blowing warm air sometimes with the fan setting completely off - each of the times it's done it the most has been when the car has been sitting off in a parking garage away from the sun. I'm wondering if it actually might be the blend door itself - no biggie as any time I turn on the AC itself, that cold air immediately bypasses the warm air that leaks out. It's just strange it only does it certain times, and it blows quite hard (as if the fan speed was set to setting #2 or #3).

Will ivestigate "how much" paint got into the actual intercooler. Most seems on the support bracket and then the bottom corner of the unit. Judging from how much paint people use to actually add logos, it seems about the same, but I'll get a light and see how much made it in between the actual fins.

Side note: My area in North Hollywood hasn't been changing for the better and I went to change out the ac delco gas cap for a locking version. For the life of me, I can't get it locked to a point where I can't physically open it. Also tried the Stant that folks recommend. Am I missing something? Simple stuff, but I can't find a unit that locks properly. Doesn't seem like the thread inside the compartment is messed up, but I also wouldn't know if it was visually either.

Thanks again for all the help and guidance.

You were wondering if overspray on the intercooler would affect it's performance and the answer is no it does not. Some makers of aftermarket intercoolers paint their logos on the front as seen in the picture below.

Appreciate you brother - Good to know. Should have known aftermarket part makers likely added logos and paint to stuff like this.

"I thought the existing cap was kind of old.. but the seal didn't feel that loose. Drove the car all day and couldn't get the light to come back on. I'm still surprised."

Gas caps have a one way air valve in them to let air in as you use up gas, but not let vapors out. If it sticks open, it's like not having a gas cap. The rim seal is irrelevant at that point.
Got it. Appreciate you clarifying. I mentioned to John above, curious your take as well: Tried two different models of locking gas caps (ac delco oem, and the stant folks like): for the life of me I can't get either to properly lock. They will seal air-right, but any combinations of turns/clicks with key turning attempts also results in me still being able to get the thing off in the supposed "locked position". Do the actual threads sometime get messed up? I've got to be missing something simple on this one.

Glad you got it figured out and Welcome to the forum!

Just a FYI for those in The Peoples Republik of Kalifornia......the ASStute politicians of Sacramento will not allow AutoZone to read codes on vehicles.....unless they changed that stupid rule after I left in May of 2019, but I doubt it.
Cheers brother. I'm with you on the CA sh*t show. This place tests my patience... daily.

If you need another voucher re: temp, both my original 07 GXP saw when brand new, and my current '08 GXP, see a max at 209*F indicated in the DIC.

When my '07 was a week old, with about 350 miles, I had a CEL. Took it to the dealer immediately. They checked it and said "it's fine, no problem" and I never had another CEL in the remainder of my four years and 55K miles of ownership. I'd bet good money it was the gas cap!

I have mentioned this before and some people have expressed wonder at why I mention it. I mention it because even when I was in an old car club with 1960s-1970s car owners.that swore they saw everything twice and did it all three times, this wasn't general knowledge and I read dozens of posts over the years by concerned owners who started worrying when their coolant temp approaches 212*F. Some of them went berserk trying to fix "problems" with their cars with overbores running at 215*F at stoplights and did insane things to try to "fix" their "overheat" issues, but that's a different story.

Our coolant does not boil at 212*F. Our cars have a 15psi system. That over pressure raises the boil over temp. 15psi is 247*F boil over according to my ancient Buick chassis and repair manuals.
Thanks for vouching for that, good to know for sure. I;m with you on the gas caps showing their ugly head. Spent ages trying to figure out something on an old Buick once.. and it ended up being the gas cap. Never forgot after that. I almost immediately think of it first before anything else now! Blew my mind how simple an issue could cause people to chase their tail.
 
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