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Discussion Starter #21
My failure was shifting up into 3rd gear, under power I have to double clutch the 2-3 shift, and that takes all the fun out of a quick shift. Strangely I have no issue downshifting from 4th to 3rd? Also shift into 3rd at low throttle settings is also just a little notchy but possible.
My car chassis dyno'd at 388 rear wheel HP, so my LS2 either is a very good one, or had some work done by the PO that I don't know about. With a stock 400 HP to the flywheel, I would expect the rear wheel HP reading to be around 360 plus or minus 5 HP, so I have around 25 HP more than I thought I had, not a bad thing.
I am spending the evening assembling the Transmission Jack I picked up today. So no Progress on the car.
 

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At a 17% loss is more like 332(400x0.83) at the wheels and not 360 +/- 5., even if you go with a 15% is 340(400x0.85).
In order to get 360 at the wheels with a translation of 400 at the crank the loss would be just 10%.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
At a 17% loss is more like 332(400x0.83) at the wheels and not 360 +/- 5., even if you go with a 15% is 340(400x0.85).
In order to get 360 at the wheels with a translation of 400 at the crank the loss would be just 10%.
You are correct, miss calculation on my part. I am suspecting my car has had a cam change done by the original owner, but I have nothing to verify that.

Update I did manage to get the AR5 out of the car last Saturday before I had to travel to TN for work. I had a couple of issues but it did come out. My original plan was to pull the Trans/Bellhousing as a unit. But even with all the different extensions, universals, & universal sockets I own I could not get at 2 of the bolts. So I separated the trans/adaptor plate from the Bellhousing, removed the transmission, then pulled the bellhousing. 1st step was to disconnect the clutch slave cylinder hydraulic line at the master cylinder by removing the clip. My car did not have a bracket to attach the hydraulic line to the firewall as I understand the 2.4 & 2.0 cars do.

My 1st snag occurred when I removed the transmission crossmenber, and lowered the rear of the trans to try to gain access to the bellhousing bolts. This brought the LS2 Oil Filter into contact with the engine crossmember bending the oil filter and causing a leak. I removed the oil filter and loosened the lower engine mount bolts to allow me to raise the engine and lower the rear of the transmission.

So I removed the eight 15mm adaptor plate bolts and slide the AR5 back about 6 inches. I could not seem to get the line to the slave cylinder loose to I removed the two 10mm bolts securing the slave cylinder to the AR5. The removed the AR5.

I could then remove the two remaining 15mm bellhousing bolts. This is about when I realized I didn't need to buy the 1998-2002 Camaro/Firebird Bellhousing I bought as that was what was already bolted to the LS2! Dumb on my part.

Then I simply removed the old clutch slave cylinder, actually almost fell out even though it did not want to move with the transmission in place, and remove the Bellhousing.

I then removed the clutch pressure plate & Disc. Inspecting it I do not see any real wear so if I can verify that it is a LUK Gold Corvette or Camaro part as I suspect I will reuse it.

Now that I could see the Flywheel I was pleasantly surprised to find out it has a light weight aluminum flywheel installed, it appears to be a LS7 part.




The Aluminum Flywheel explains how fast this engine spools up, it does rev faster than any V8 street engine I have driven. It also explains why the car does not like to be babied from a stop.

I now have a week to try to verify the clutch parts. When I get back into town I will measure the setback of the slave cylinder with the adaptor plate and bellhousing, and compare it to the 6060. I also need to compare the electrical connections on the two transmissions to see if I need to rewire or shop for adaptor pigtails. Just did not have enough time before the trip.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Thanks for the input, but after looking at the price difference I don't have an additional $1500.00 in the budget at this point. Unfortunaly I still have to pay for at least 2 more rounds of Chemo for my Wife's Dog (my dog to) and that's about what that is going to cost me. It looks like I will be reinstalling the Z06 Clutch infront of the Tremec 6060.

I will keep that in mind for when the LUK needs replacement though.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Well I finally got the ambition to get something done after a week of almost daily snow shoveling. I compared the electrical connectors on the 2 transmissions, and both have the same connectors Yeah! I also installed the original bellhousing on the Tremec and R-5 and measured the depth to the slave cylinder mount, then swapped the bellhousing onto the Tremec 6060 and got the same measurement Yeah! I then test fit the original LUK clutch disk onto the Tremec and it slid on. So I verified I can reuse the original Clutch assembly. That saves about $400 and I was happy with the feel of the original Clutch.




I did discover 1 issue I thought I had worked out, the shifter position on the Tremec is almost 4 inches farther forward than on the AR-5 the AR-5 shifter is centered at 27 15/16" back from the front face of the adaptor plate, the Tremec shifter is centered at 24 1/8" back from the front face of the trans. Bummer I have to look into shifter changes.

I still have to verify the trans crossmember will work, and work out a modified drive shaft. I hope to start reassembling this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Update on the shifter, it looks like I can get a custom offset shifter made in 1/2" increments for around $300. So like everything else for a "Small Fee" it can be corrected. More info as I receive it.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Another thing I did not consider, the Tremec 6060 (and T-56's) have a reverse Lockout Solenoid to keep the driver from shifting into reverse when attempting to shift into 5th gear. The 6060 has a fully synchronized reverse gear, so you can force it into reverse at speed. I can Purchase a Kit for around $100 to hook it up. Or not hook it up, as I have been told most drivers in retro fit applications do not have an issue pushing past the detent spring to engage reverse when needed. Andy Opinions? It would be easier to install in now then retro fit it later.
 

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I just completed a clutch and differential change in my 07 Sky Mallett. I considered The 6060 but the time wasn't right to tie up my garage for an extended project. I did contact Mallett and he told me the GTO tail shaft is what he used to get the shifter to line up. Good job on your project so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Thanks for the Kind Words Mike. I was actually out in the Garage working on the car yesterday when you posted.

I was actually home this weekend and was able to work on the car. I was able to Bolt on the Flywheel, Clutch disc and Pressure Plate, along with the Bellhousing.

After a Prolonged 3 hour struggle we were finally able to get the 6060 Bolted into place. We (my 70 year old Father inlaw) struggled to get the input shaft to align with the Pilot Bearing, this is the 1st car I have owned that used a Pilot Bearing and not a Pilot Bushing in the crankshaft. I think the lack of a lead in surface on the bearing contributed to the difficulty to align the input shaft. But it did finally go in. So I was able to get an accurate measurement for the new driveshaft and as of this mourning that is in the works. The Trans is being held in place by a 2X6 until I can get the driveshaft reinstalled.


I also did some other unrelated work, I received the rebuilt Penske/Mallet rear Coil over shocks, installed and adjusted them, and removed the leaking front shocks to be sent out later this week for the same attention. I did remove the redundant upper coil spring mounts & rubber isolators that I think was causing the rattling noise I was hearing on rough pavement. They almost fell off the upper mounts with the shocks removed, I will remove the front ones before I reinstall them.


On the Stock Chrome wheels I never really cared for the stock all silver arrowhead caps, so I swapped them out with a set of Black Caps from 97-2002 Pontiac wheels. I like the contrast better, but understand if others don't.


I also repaired the Folding passenger seat cupholder with the new 3D printed part from a member here. Sorry no Pictures.
Back on the road for another week, hopefully I can make some more progress this weekend when I return from Bay City MI.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I'm the 3rd owner of the car, you would have to make that point to the original owner in Texas. But I kinda shook my head at that also when I saw the shocks on the car. I didn't know they were on the car until after I got it home, The 2nd owner did not have the paper work from Mallet. The 1st owner was kind enough to send me the invoice, but didn't want to talk about the car.
 

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Another thing I did not consider, the Tremec 6060 (and T-56's) have a reverse Lockout Solenoid to keep the driver from shifting into reverse when attempting to shift into 5th gear. The 6060 has a fully synchronized reverse gear, so you can force it into reverse at speed. I can Purchase a Kit for around $100 to hook it up. Or not hook it up, as I have been told most drivers in retro fit applications do not have an issue pushing past the detent spring to engage reverse when needed. Andy Opinions? It would be easier to install in now then retro fit it later.
I have that same transmission bolted behind an aluminum 5.3 in my '82 S10 truck, though I'm not yet done with the swap (plumbing, wiring are the biggest things left to do). I think what I'll do is wire the lockout solenoid to the brake light. I'll almost certainly have my foot on the brake when shifting into reverse, and I probably won't be applying the brake while accidentally trying to shift into reverse at speed. I suppose you could be hitting the brake while downshifting to 5th, and possibly go into reverse, but getting more complex than that would require something to know that you're stopped (either something tapping into the vehicle speed sensor, PCM, BCM, or something sitting on the GMLAN or CAN bus to know you're stopped).

Or just get a shift knob with a push button on it. The reverse lockout on my '17 WRX is a collar on the shifter you raise.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Jay, thanks for the input, I did purchase the lock out control kit for $95 as I was concerned with the short length of the shifter needed for this car. You may not even need to control the solenoid as the shift lever for you S-10 will probably be at least 12 or more inches. I recently had a chance to drive a 66 Lemans with a 6060 installed in it, and the owner did not bother hooking up the solenoid. It was no problem shifting it into reverse, but with the 14" shift lever it was easy to push past the spring pressure of the solenoid. But my wife sometimes drives my car and I think it is easier to spend the $$ and not have to hear how difficult it is for her to get the car into reverse!
But you idea of just hooking into the brake light circuit is interesting. As long as it does not dim the brake lights it should work fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Small update, I plan on reusing the original shifter Boot & ring, As I have no use for the original shifter I did not mind destroying the knob to remove & hopefully reusing the boot. and today I removed the boot by the following steps.

(1) removing the shift pattern emblem by gently prying the plastic emblem edge & removing the emblem
(2) cutting the knob outer cover along the seams and removing the outer cover.
(3) Cutting the inner plastic knob off the shaft buy cutting it vertically along one of the ribs and them peeling it off the inner metal detail.
(4) cutting the tie wrap off the upper edge of the boot that secures it to the shaft. Then lower the boot a few mm's to make room to cut off the upper section of the shaft.
(5) cut the upper detail off the shaft. I used a vertical band saw
(6) remove the boot off the top of the shifter.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I was finally able to get back to the trans swap. Issue preventing work were mostly work related, I was sent out of the country for an extended period and just got back 2 weeks ago. But before that with all the heavy rain we had this spring my Pit flooded, it has never happened before I had about 3 feet of water at the bottom of it.
Well I finally got the last 2 trans to bellhousing installed and torqued, the new drive shaft installed, the trans crossmember bolted up (it will work for now but will need to be modified this winter) The DDM back bone brace installed. The new shifter and knob installed, and the front Coil Overs back on. The new set of Pilot Sport 4's bolted up, and the trans filled with 3.5 qts of fluid. Made a lot of progress over the last 2 days. Here are a few pictures.
The shift Knob is from a 2006 CTSV, I was going for as stock as possible look and think this works, even if it was spendy, I must be getting old as I can not believe it has taken almost to August to get this far.
Now to hook up the exhaust, sensors and Battery and see how it works!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Success! And Almost everything works! Just the back up lights are inop, will have to live with that until I put it away for the winter, along with final modifications to the trans Crossmember, Besides adding 8mm spacers to the top, and enlarging the cutout for the trans mount, I did not take into account that the front 2 bolts of the Backbone Brace bolt to the Crossmember, I will have to fix that also.

But hooked up the exhaust, wired up the last few sensors, rechecked everything and took it for a drive. I really missed driving it!
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Well things went south in the trans yesterday, put almost 300 miles on it just to verify everything was OK before taking it to this Weekends Pontiac Nationals in Norwalk Ohio. While coming off the freeway the trans started making all kinds of horrible noises, call the shop I bought the trans from and they confirmed it was an internal failure after driving it for about a block. They will warranty the trans but I have to bring it to them, Kinda down at the Moment.
I purposely bought a beefed up version of the 6060 that is supposed to be able to handle twice the torque my mostly stock LS2 puts out. I am going to have my favorite trans shop R&R it for me as I don't have much time to enjoy the car this year, and the Pit in my garage is going to be filled in and cemented over in a couple of weeks.
I am beginning to suspect the car does not like me.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Well at least the repairs will be under warranty if not the removal/replacement. My wife is feeling sorry for me so she is letting me take her G8 GT to the Norwalk Ohio event Saturday so at least I will get a chance to go to the track and see some old friends.
 
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