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I have just received some information with regard to the no heat/over heat issues that some of the GXP members have been mentioning. This only applies to those who have not modified or 'tinkered' with their cooling system.

GM is aware of the problem and working on the resolution - in the mean time:

The thing to do is not open the cooling system cap unless there is a reason (no coolant in bottle) and if it was opened and now have no heat/over heat complaint, find a dealer that has a vac-n-fill system to vacuum out the system to purge the air. It may take up to three times to get the air out.
Once there is further information on this issue it will be posted.

HTH!
 

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Great information Mom, great having you as a "source"
 

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If the dealership doesn't already have one, they are available from GM's essential tool supplier for $502.

 

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Discussion Starter #4
BTT for exposure
 

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interesting, I've had mine off several times, first one was to fill the tank due to a low coolant light. I've never had an over heat problem. Good info to know.
 

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Bet your engine was cold when you did it, wasn't it?
 

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MomsSol said:
I have just received some information with regard to the no heat/over heat issues that some of the GXP members have been mentioning. This only applies to those who have not modified or 'tinkered' with their cooling system.

GM is aware of the problem and working on the resolution - in the mean time:
The thing to do is not open the cooling system cap unless there is a reason (no coolant in bottle) and if it was opened and now have no heat/over heat complaint, find a dealer that has a vac-n-fill system to vacuum out the system to purge the air. It may take up to three times to get the air out.
Once there is further information on this issue it will be posted.
Here is what MomsSol's advice looks like in dealership form:
Subject: Engine Runs Warm, No Heat at Times or Noise From Heater Core

2007-2009 Pontiac Solstice GXP
2007-2009 Saturn Sky Redline
2007-2009 Daewoo G2X
2007-2009 Opel GT


Condition/Concern:
A technician may comment of a gurgle/knock noise from the heater core area, a low/no heat condition and or the coolant temperature gauge may read high intermittently.

Recommendation/Instructions:
These concerns may be caused by an air pocket in the cooling system. This vehicle configuration is susceptible to air pockets entering the cooling system if the reservoir cap is removed. DO NOT open the cooling system on a warm/hot car; doing so will induce air into the cooling system. Anytime the cooling system is bled, the driver’s side of the vehicle should be lifted slightly to insure the reservoir is the highest point in the system.

Air can enter into the system from the reservoir bleed port. With vehicle parked on a level surface, make sure the coolant recovery container is level in the vehicle and the bleed port is above the engine outlet port. You should be able to place your finger between the inner fender and the lower front edge of the coolant container. If you have to move the front of the container up, make sure the coolant container or cap does not contact the underside of the hood when closing.

To remedy this concern it will be necessary to use a Vac-N-Fill coolant filler in conjunction with slightly raising the driver’s side of the vehicle. This process will need to be repeated 3 times to ensure any air is removed from the system. Follow the eSI procedure found under "Cooling System Draining and Filling (GE-47716)" for the Vac-N-Fill instructions. After filling, run the vehicle up to operating temperature until the cooling fans cycle and test drive to verify the concern has been repaired.

GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
 

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So replacing the thermostat (which was done in many cases) probably only worked because they drained and refilled the coolant at the same time...
 

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Two comments;
1) There is NO MORE EXPENSIVE place to buy "special tools" then from Kent-Moore. Even GM dealers hate the prices. Kent-Moore is just an arm of OTC, and "makes" NO tools. They are either rebranded OTC stuff, or vended from tool companies. Do some Google searching for the above vacuum system and expect to pay about HALF the K-M price.
2) There is an "old school" solution to cooling system air locks. Remove the thermostat, drill a 1/8" hole in the plate, and reinstall. No more air locks. Have I tested it on an LNF engine? No. But it is an almost universal "fix". The hole is big enough to clear air locks, but small enough NOT the negatively effect the cooling system.
 

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Fixed!

I had this problem EXTENSIVELY over the past 3 weeks. The only fix for it was the vac-n-seal. Knock on wood, I'd have the car back a week and a half and have tried my darndest to repro the issue. Can't.

Very happy now.
 

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Thanks MomSol and Small Dealer. I've had my GXP in for this previously and it was unresolved. The problem has plauged me off and on for over a year. I'll be headed back in to my dealer as soon as my GMPP Stage II arrives to have it installed and I've already copied your tech bulletin to hand to them. They hate it when I do that to them. :)
 

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Is this process covered under the drivetrain warranty? It's all I have left and I am having the no heat/overheat problem. An I did open the cap on the driver side reservoir. I didn't see this thread yet...

If this isn't covered, how much should I expect to pay?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Is this process covered under the drivetrain warranty? It's all I have left and I am having the no heat/overheat problem. An I did open the cap on the driver side reservoir. I didn't see this thread yet...

If this isn't covered, how much should I expect to pay?
This is not part of the drivetrain and therefore would not be covered under that warranty. I haven't seen anyone post pricing for this repair, hopefully someone will for you.
 

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Well I have an appointment Tuesday to get it done, I will try some methods mentioned on other threads before then to try and save some money. My dexcool is about a half inch lower than the line. Sooooo maybe, just maybe adding that will help.
 

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Just got off the phone with Saturn service, they have never done a flush, but the said the have the vac-n-fill. All they have every done is drain and fill the coolant. Sooo I don't know what that means for me. But A drain and fill is $39.95.
 

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Eyeno reports the final piece of this puzzle will be out the end of next month.

Eyeno 11/25 said:
The cooling system on the 2.0L Solstice/Sky is completely different than anything you may of seen in the past. Drilling a hole, of any size, in the thermostat will not correct the no heat – over heat condition. When your DIC is reading 245 deg, turn on your heater blower. If cold air is coming out of the heater, the problem is the result of air in the cooling system that will not purge. In every case I’ve reviewed the cooling system was opened on a warm/hot engine when the engine was turned off. When you open the coolant recovery system on a hot engine, you can hear the air being sucked into the system.

This condition can be corrected by installing two check valves in the cooling system. The information and part number for the valves will be available to your GM dealer sometime towards the end of December.
 

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Jebsmith said:
I saw that... So how do I drive my car until then? This new info seems crazy to me.
Unitl something changes, one goes with the current information and procedures.
 

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that's great mom, I wonder if I actually needed a thermostat, when they replaced mine they obviously purged the system and that might have been all it really needed

well done
 

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Eyeno reports the final piece of this puzzle will be out the end of next month.
sd, my radiator was never opened and I had the problem, I guess it could have been opened at the dealer but I doubt it, I believe I had the experience even before my very first service

anyway, I think I had hot air when I turned the heater on but I never did let it get to 145 degrees, the funny thing about our car, when you turn the heater on the engine temperature actually goes up not down, I suppose this might be becuase coolant scavenged to go to the heater coil?

don't know, purely speculation, maybe you do know and that would be good info if you could post it
 
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