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No, I haven't even got 1000 miles on this yet so it is certainly warranty. I am left wondering how on Earth you could put that much value into a small one way valve....

This should all work out, it will just take a little longer now. Will keep you updated.
 

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That price is insane! I'm going to work on getting a bulk supply of these reasonably. This should really be a recall or at least be reasonable.
 

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That price is insane! I'm going to work on getting a bulk supply of these reasonably. This should really be a recall or at least be reasonable.
What does it matter if you aren't paying for it - or are you out of warranty? If you've owned the car long enough to be out of warranty and not had the problem you are probably not going to.
 

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What does it matter if you aren't paying for it - or are you out of warranty? If you've owned the car long enough to be out of warranty and not had the problem you are probably not going to.
Out of warranty, 2nd owner, 1st owner I don't think ever had the problem or made note of it. With that being said, the dealer had already replaced the waterpump under warranty and I believe they thought it was to blame when the first owner had the car.

~44k, ~40 months.
 

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Out of warranty, 2nd owner, 1st owner I don't think ever had the problem or made note of it. With that being said, the dealer had already replaced the waterpump under warranty and I believe they thought it was to blame when the first owner had the car.

~44k, ~40 months.
A stand-up dealership could fix this for you, especially considering the newness of the TSB. Do you know where the water pump was replaced and is it local? This would likely be your best bet I'd imagine.
 

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There are now $803.50 Can. worth (well, that was the price, anyway) of free (to me) valves in my car, and they put in new coolant. We shall see......
 

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Reading this thread, is like reading a thread about diagnosing and discovering you have cancer. Well, sonnofabittch, I got this cancer. I overheated to 250F today, while waiting in a drive thru, same thing yesterday again at a drive thru, and I thought it would go away. I kinda liked the suggestions for lifting the GXP on the drivers side, then massaging/milking/squeezing the rubber tubes to get the air to the top, kinda sounds like giving your GXP a hand job. Let's call this the "Elevated Hand Job Method".

I want to try anything and everything before succumming to bringing this problem to the dealer, where they may frown upon my HP Tuners aggressive Tune, high flow CAT and loud a$$ Solo Street Race Exhaust. As soon as I drive in the bay with them hearing the sound, I can just imagine all their eyes rolling in the air, when I tell them I have an overheating problem. I can't wait to tell them that I also took my own initiative to change my spark plugs last week to the ACDelco OEM "hotter plugs". Joy.

So you can understand why I want to avoid bringing this to the dealer.

Can anyone offer a step by step DIY plan to troubleshoot and repair this overheating problem?

Here is my amature attempt at a DIY procedure, before bringing this to a dealer based on reading this thread and others on this forum about overheating. I am hoping people can correct/contribute to this "DIY overheating repair guide"

1. Check Fuse #1 to make sure your engine fan fuse is not blown. (if fuse is blown you are fuked, you can't just purchase this (flux capacitor style) fuse at Canadian Tire, you need to order it from the ARCTIC which will cost you a left testicle.
2. Check coolant level. By all means DO NOT open the coolant cap!!! (if you are low on coolant you are fuKED!!!) Try and add coolant to your engine without opening the cap. Do this using Jedi Mind Power. Opening the CAP will cause air bubbles.
3. Elevated Hand Job Method. Lift your GXP on the drivers side. Locate the rubber tubes that seem to be connected to the pink coolant reserviour and contain coolant, then give these tubes the hand job of their life!! until you hear a change in the way it sounds and you instinctively feel that the problem is fixed. (I am trying this tomorrow)
4. Put your GXP on ramps, then examine the wiring that leads to the engine fan. Look for anything that may seem to indicate that the fan or fan wiring is the culprit. If you are MacGyuver's cousin, then try disconnecting the engine fan and wiring it directly to an external battery or your existing car battery to see if you can make the fan go on by itself, which rules out a problem relating to the fan itself.
5. Put your GXP on ramps and slide under your car and look up at the intercooler and radiator and check for debris.
6. Water pump? Find out on this forum how to troubleshoot your water pump. (I haven't found out how yet, can you help??)


If all of these procedures don't diagnose or fix your problem, bite the bullet and send to the dealer and hope they don't laugh and blame you for the overheating problem because of all your mods, especially your chromed side mirrors.
 

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It is not the hoses that run from the reservoir - It is the big hose that runs from the top of the engine to the top of the radiator.

Good luck! :thumbs:
 

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Navy-

I responded to you in another thread. Would be helpful to know which engine you have since the fans operate differently.
 

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My problem is solved. Thanks for all the inputs and advise. It was a blown 60AMP fuse #1 for the engine cooling fan. However, I did notice the hand job method did lower my temps after I did the procedure. So I probably have air bubbles as well. It's interesting, as using the modified hand job method as explained by another thread may be a helpful routine procedure. If it is practiced and proven by more people it may become a sticky!!!
 

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I checked this forum before changing a water pump for a customer yesterday and noticed the OTC 6616 sprocket holding tool (33.99 Locally), but did not notice the vac & fill setup....BUT,
Here's a way to get by it..

***TRY THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK, I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR PERSONAL INJURY*****

I filled the overflow bucket to the top, I slid back the hose clamp on the small upper return hose on the overflow bucket (next to the fender), Started the car and let it raise to operating temp, slowly opened the fill cap and let the initial pressure release. (be careful, it's gonna be hot). I pulled the hose from the bucket and put it inside the overflow bucket. The small hose actually sucked up all the water in the bucket. I put the hose back on the bucket, refilled the reservoir, started the car, gave the upper radiator hose a few squeezes to get the coolant flowing and presto...regular flow, heat to the heater, and normal operating temp....
 
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