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Hope others don't end up this way.

Ran like a beauty for the first six months I've driven her as a DD. Bought used with 50k miles and already at 70k. Had similar symptoms with a two spats of 'higher' temps at 220 during recent weekend trip of 300 miles. Went away pretty quick on the road.

Next morning, drove to work fifty miles one way and started overheating one mile from work. Babied it into my parking lot with the high temp warning light just turning on. I always have my display at oil temp and really familiar with what is normal (190f-200f).

Symptoms: Escalating temp at 240+, No heat from interior heater, hot upper radiator hose, cold lower radiator hose, no leaks, expansion tank level slightly higher than normal/hot, normal dark/black oil, no exhaust smoke or liquid.

Went through the wonderful information on this and other threads and did all of the air purge procedures many times after work. Same results, so next morning I changed out the thermostat in the parking lot and re-did all of the purging procedures. Still did not work. Found that the expansion tank level was rising dramatically with coolant/system pressure increased as it was getting hot, post-purged, with all the other symptoms still active. Blown head gasket is my call.

Towed to local GM dealer in small town after confirming my service contract company would work with them. The service guy seemed in a panic describing that they think the motor 'blew up'. Seems they aren't used to motor repair as they have to have an 'inspector' come in to make an assessment of what to do. Hope they are better at oil changes?!?!

Will post progress.
 

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Did you install anti-purge valves Hirev? Without the vlaves the problem is not solved and air keeps leaking nito the system somehow. The anti-purge valves worked perfectly. Here is a set of instructions on how to install them.

http://www.cherod.com/solstice/HowTos/Overheating.htm
 

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Hello this is my first try to post so give me some slack... I went through the air bubble blogs and after many attempts to resolve the over heating no heat issue I discovered through my deductive processes that the coolant was not circulating at all. I had changed the T-Stat and then removed it to port it with a weep hole de-burring and the whole nine yards. Finally I removed the radiator hose at the head to reconfirm my deductions were correct with the engine running...I decided it had to be the water pump even though I was advised it wasn't likely... I removed the pump and it was good...the problem was a piece of Bicycle chain followed the pump out...I was right it wasn't pumping but it was not what I had expected. Only 89 k miles and the chain driving the water pump had broken.... I mention this because I haven't seen any posts about that possibility ... I may have missed it but I can't remember reading one. I hope this helps someone and is not too wordy a post. N8http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/images/smilies/lurk.gif
 

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I have a 2008 Solstice GXP. I have a BAD over heating problem in the summer about 5 minutes into a drive when the temp inches up to 260 degrees momentarily, and then drops to norm) . It only does it from a cold start first thing in the morning IF I don't keep it under ~50MPH for the first few miles. Doesn't do this after being parked all day. Early spring or late fall the temp might go up to 220 degrees vs 260. Seems like a sticking thermostat but dealer wants $400+ to replace it on the turbo'd GXP (hard to get to it??).
I am the second owner and haven't removed the cap as mentioned. Does this sound like an air lock, a thermostat, or electrical problem?
 

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I have a 2008 Solstice GXP. I have a BAD over heating problem in the summer about 5 minutes into a drive when the temp inches up to 260 degrees momentarily, and then drops to norm) . It only does it from a cold start first thing in the morning IF I don't keep it under ~50MPH for the first few miles. Doesn't do this after being parked all day. Early spring or late fall the temp might go up to 220 degrees vs 260. Seems like a sticking thermostat but dealer wants $400+ to replace it on the turbo'd GXP (hard to get to it??).
I am the second owner and haven't removed the cap as mentioned. Does this sound like an air lock, a thermostat, or electrical problem?
Could be air. My '07GXP started to overheat (or say it was) some years back. I burped the upper hose a bunch of times and it hasn't happened since. I don't remember the exact procedure but I used a vise grip with a leather glove between the jaws as padding, and adjusted it so it just closed off the small hose from the overflow tank. It involved squeezing and releasing the large upper hose and clamping/unclamping the overflow tube. The car's covered in winter storage for now or I'd take a peek to refresh my memory but there's probably a thread somewhere if you search. I marked the coolant level on the overflow before & after burping and it had dropped almost ½". I topped it off and like you, I am just paranoid enough to keep checking it on the display, but it never goes much past 195° in normal driving or around 210° in stop and go traffic in the Summer.
 
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