battery

yep... join the club...

Probably the same idiot that thought "hmmm, there's hardly any room at all in this trunk with the fuel tank and we have to have SOME space to store the convertible top when it's down . . . .

And since there is no practical way to store the convertible top in the engine compartment . . .

with fender off

above - without removing the fender

for solstice, battery group size 86, 25, or 75

If I remember correctly they wanted it in the trunk but the government wouldn’t let them put it there because of the close proximity to the fuel tank

For the amount of times "most" people need to replace a battery, ie only every 3-5 years, seems like a sensible decision to put it there. It's not "super easy" but also not "very complicated" once you know what bolts to remove.

I just saw this video on YouTube. Has anyone else done this for a battery replacement?

ConeHugger01 said:

For the amount of times "most" people need to replace a battery, ie only every 3-5 years, seems like a sensible decision to put it there. It's not "super easy" but also not "very complicated" once you know what bolts to remove.

Click to expand...

So how do you get the fender realigned correctly?

Oh, and I've replaced the battery four times in a year and a half.

Holy cow 🙁 Four times ??? The two bottom bolt holes on the fender are slotted so that helps aligning it. In the door jam there's a bolt head that matches up with a hole in the fender so you need to make sure that's aligned or the fender won't tighten up properly

Hurricane87 said:

So how do you get the fender realigned correctly?

Click to expand...

The best way is to mark its location before removing the fender.

Good point John. My fender has marks from the washers that I used to realign it but You may not always have those. On my hood I traced around the mounting bolts with a sharpie

After I got the fender back on I went to lake Lowell and did a little fishing. Caught two carp so Frodo will be eating good. I boil them to kill any parasites and peel the meat off the bones and cut them into portions and freeze them. Frodo is a vicious killer, when I drop the carp onto the floor of my boat he growls and snarles and bites them until they quit moving. He thinks he's a mighty hunter. lol

I still haven't put my hood back on, it takes three people and the kid I rent a room to works nights so he's sleeping all day. Same with my neighbor. Haven't been able to line up two other people whose schedules work out yet.

Search for "Battery Swap w/Pix" on this forum! Go through the fender lining, much easier and no worries about fender alignment. My biggest issue was making a block which would line up with the jack mounting plate with the jack holding up the vehicle. Could have done it with just the jack holding up the car, but I am a safety nut!

Something is wrong, I put the new battery in and it was at 80% charge so I put the Charger on it overnight. Just went to start the car and it's a no start. Checked the battery, it's at 12.65 volts. When I turn the key the CEL flickers. I also have no power the external battery jumper points on the side of the fuse box. Is there something else I need to do to start the car after removing the battery ?

Just check my two engine grounds and #5 fuse, all good. There's two relays associated to crank run,will test those. Other than that I'm not sure what is wrong. Engaged and disarmed the alarm just in case. It was running fine until I swapped the battery

When I turn the key on the throttle body doesn't do it's self check and no click from the starter and the cooling fan comes on, can't remember if the fan should run at start up

Oh goody. You might have a fried ECM. Fan instantly on is not common behaviour, at least not on my 2.4. Watch out about "jumper points in the fuse box", I remember reading of someone seeing a black capped post and thinking it was a negative point but it was a positive.

What kind of charger do you use. Did you disconnect the battery from the car to charge it? Where did you connect the charger leads.

I try to avoid "negative posts" when I connect jump leads to any car. I connect the positive to the positive post on the battery and the negative lead on to the engine block.

Just a standard battery charger like you get at a parts store 3, 5, 15 amp. I ran it on 5 amp. Battery wasnt disconnected from the cables but I've charged dozens of batteries while connected to the car without a problem but these solstice's are kind of Special Ed so who knows. What bothers me is no power to the external battery leads on the side of the fuse box, those should have power straight from the battery so I need to pull the fuse box and figure that out. I might have a bad cable but I'm getting power to the ignition. Confusing 🤨 I need to think this through before I go further