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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Tought I'd cross-post this beyond the original thread regarding HVAC blower malfunction. Hopefully it will help someone else "down the road".

Solstice BCM removal / replacement.


Editorial - there have been multiple complaints that the passenger seat air bag sensor in these vehicles have been a maintenance issue. I have no concrete evidence that "point loading" or putting excessive pressure in the center of the passenger seat is the cause of these failures. I express this caution based upon reports from owners that have stated the failures have occurred immediately after driving over railroad tracks or rough roads with a passenger present. I also express this caution after my limited experience with the vehicle finding me wanting to place a knee or body part directly into the center of the passenger seat while cleaning or servicing the vehicle. As the Body Control Module is located under the dash beneath the floor board, servicing it will likely result in elbows or other body parts being placed in the passenger seat. I recommend diligence in your methods or to place a piece of plywood or other stiff support on the passenger seat before proceeding.

1. Disconnect battery.
2. Remove the panel beneath the glove box. There are two "push pins" on each end that pull straight down.
3. Pull the carpet from the top (near the dash) toward the seat. (Velcro attachment.)
4. Pull the plastic panel from the top (near the dash) toward the seat. (Velcro attachment.)
5. The body control module has 3 cable connectors on the front as well as the fuses and relays. Two of the cables have a blue "wire dress" on them with gray latching mechanisms on them. Place a flat screwdriver blade under the gray latches and pull toward you to unlatch them and then rotate away from the end where the wires exit the plug.



6. A 7mm socket is required to remove the main connector (black) in the lower/center of the BCM. This bolt will actually extract the connector from the BCM so it will start easily, then require minor effort to continue to pull the connector from it's contacts. (see above image.)
7. Remove the 3 mounting screws from the top, right, and bottom of the BCM with the 7mm socket. (see above image.)
8. Remove the main supply connector from the back of the BCM with a 7mm socket. (Image below).
9. Remove the "wire dress" (cover) from the back of the connector by prying the two latches per side with a flat blade screwdriver. (Image below).



Commentary: In my case, I had a burnt terminal that fed power to relay 30 on the BCM which feeds power through to the HVAC blower.



If you need to replace a terminal continue on with the following steps.

10. Pull the red terminal position assurance clips (TPA) from the top and bottom of the connector shell with a flat blade screwdriver as per image below.



11. The terminals can be released from the connector shell with a special tool or simply with a pick. The latch fingers that hold the terminals in place must be deflected "back" (away from the terminal) and the terminal can be pulled out by tugging on the wire from the back of the connector. (see image below).



Commentary: I found it beneficial to take some digital images to be sure I was able to get the proper terminals/wires back in their correct positions on the new connector shell. There was enough slack to remove one at a time from the old shell and put into the new shell, but I double checked against the photo when I thought I had it complete.

There are at least two terminal part numbers listed for the connector on the back of the BCM. 12110844 and 12110842 are listed and both are "female" terminals that will fit in this connector shell. The difference is in the wire gauge they are designed to support, but both will fit and work in this connector. In this case the wire for the HVAC blower relay is heavier gauge and uses the 12110842. The easiest way to differentiate is by the number of "fingers" that crimp onto the wire. The 12110842 has two thicker fingers and the 12110844 has three thinner fingers. (See images below).





Since I don't have the crimping "tool" for the exact terminal, I pinched it shut with a pair of needle nose pliers and then soldered it figuring if it overheated once, there was no reason not to take the extra step.

12. Once all the terminals have been snapped into the new connector shell, double check your wire colors and locations.
13. Replace the red TPA's by pushing in from top and bottom and snapping into place.
14. Install the rear connector into the BCM with a 7 mm socket (reverse of step 9.)

Continue backward from step 8 to 1.
 

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Nicely done chickenwire.
 
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