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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased an EDAG roof thanks to the forum providing me with the info I needed to contact Peter. First let me say working with Peter has been a positive experience.

I will not go into detail on how much I paid Peter for the roof(You can understand why)

Peter had it crated and ready for pickup. I had it shipped from his storage facility to Phoenix using freightcenter.com and got a killer price of $500 with insurance. Item arrived just fine.

As disclosed before my purchase there were a few missing parts.
1) Main metal mounting bracket (I am trying to get it fabricated now from plans that Peter sent). Worst comes to worse I will run to Harbor freight pick up a bender and make it myself.
2) Front Window seals. if anyone has an EDAG roof and can potentially look to see if there are any part numbers on the seal I would really appreciate it. I have the rear hatch windows seal.
3) No headliner - I will either bedliner or glue fabric - not sure yet. I need the headspace anyway because I am 6' 4" tall.

My plans is to try and wrap the roof in Matt Black. I need to save a little money in the paint department if possible otherwise I will simply have it painted. I am prepping it for paint.











I have the rear hatch test mounted and aligned pretty well at this point. Took 5 washers on 1 side and 4 on the right side. I think I will cut custom spacers to it is more stable during final assembly.

As mentioned I am trying to get the metal bracket fabricated so I am pretty much on hold until that can happen because it may change the shape slightly.
 

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The side window seals have no numbers on them. I doubt you will be able to locate these items as is. Try getting in touch with Smooth Line Custom Removable Hardtops. They make a couple different styles of tops for Solstices. The side window shape has to be the same! You can purchase side window seals from him and a "rain gutter" of sorts. Ain't cheap, tho! I am sure the seals can be modified to fit the EDAG top. May be someone on this forum who has a Smoothline top can provide a picture of the seals.

The headliner was not that great. Might be better to go to an upholstery place and have something made up.

I will be taking my top off soon...time to go topless for awhile! I can take some pictures of that rear plate for you. Would not be hard at all to make one up.

Assume you have the side windows for the rear sides of the top...they are made of unobtanium!!! I think they have extra sets and I am trying to buy extras just in case.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes it is. Thanks for the pics. I have a source programming it into CAD now then I will get a price. I will send these over to him now. Hopefully it is cheap than another bid I got which was around $460. For that much, I will go to harbor freight and spend less than $300 for my own press brake.

I am looking at a couple universal window seals. Some look promising as do some BMW 5 series windows seals(They had a frameless window as well). That will be one of the last things I tackle

In Phoenix - Regardless of what you may have heard summertime is not a time for a convertible. We are on the surface of the sun(110 degrees today) so I will not be having the top down anyway till October.

I do have all the glass and am keeping it away from everything. I am really concerned they will break and will be stuck without a replacement. Wonder if I could make a cast of them somehow. Let me know if you find spares.

Thanks for checking in and just wanted you to know that your threads are invaluable to me and the main reason I am getting one of these for myself.
 

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If it were me, I would make my own and keep it simple. The plate measures 3/32" thick. I doubt seriously that you will find a brake at Harbor Freight capable of bending that thick of steel. I would get a piece of 3/32" flat bar of the overall correct size, lay it out, shear the material for the ends and then TIG weld it up. Drill some holes, weld in the two nuts and you should be good to go. I assume the flanges are to help to keep it from bending but it is bolted to body, so that should prevent it from flexing.

In the picture, the green arrows indicate where the plate is bolted to the hinges.

The red arrows are where the top will be bolted to (nuts underneath).

The yellow arrow is where the plate is bolted to the body, one per side.

If it were me, I would take your basic plans to a good weld shop and see if they could fabricate this item for you.

...I might even be talked into making up a simple design as I am a retired welding teacher and I go over to the school quite often to weld up things for my MG's.
 

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#88 congrats, looks good. If an addendum is ever created to the Solstice book
it would be nice to seen EDAG tops included as I think enough are in existence
to justify their inclusion.

BTW, found this quote: "The EDAG designers have designed a special hardtop,
including a new boot flap, for the Solstice which not only puts a solid roof
over the driver’s head, but also gives the car a completely new appearance.
Inspired by the Pontiac Safari station wagons of the 1950s and 1960s,
the EDAG designers have come up with a dynamic, elegant and contemporary
variant of a sports estate."

Full article:
EDAG Pontiac Solstice Hard-Top World Debut at NAIAS
 

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I will be really interested if you can find a side window seal that works, or even one that works with minimum modification. I have looked everywhere I can find, and have not found anything that is even close. I talked to one of the EDAG project team, and was told that the seals were custom made for the top, so nothing off-the shelf is likely to be an exact fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I am taking a bit of a risk with the window seal. I took off the convertible window seal and rail. There are 2 rails per side along with 2 seals and seem to be able to be bolted right to the seal rail in the edag hardtop. The rear rail(the one that has the radius bend) has a channel in (two strips of aluminum that appear to hold the convertible fabric in a specific location) that I have grinded off the driver side rear rail. I did a test fit and it looks like it will work perfectly. I am expecting a factory fit based upon what I am testing. I will send pictures when I am complete but it looks good(should be by the end of this week). Beware - this is an expensive fix and unless you are willing to (which I am) to purchase replacement rear rails for your convertible which cost $60 each side or replace the entire rail kit for the convertible so you have one for both the convertible and the edag hardtop(Which will run $60 per piece 2 window seals per side and 2 rails per side so a total of 8 pieces = $480)

The only picture I have is the front rail fit and as I hope you can see it looks right on.(I need to use a different camera going forward)



But the window opens and closes as well as seals properly when you open and close the door. And the rear rail follows the curve of the hard top perfectly.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
In addition to the window seal work I cut down a piece of thick steal for the rear mounting bracket and I wanted EDAG owner opinion of how this looks.



I have no idea what this would have been called but it is a 90 degrees bend piece of weldable steal I picked up a Lowes. I cut out the place for the arms and reduced the material on the ends so it will bolt flush.



Then it bolted on



I used grade 8 bolts and lock washers.

I then drilled two new mounting holes in the EDAG top metal plates and subsequently through my bracket and bolted the top to the new bracket using the U bolt that came with the kit.

I believe I need to bolt the bracket down to the vehicle in some way (I was thinking a threaded rod through the drain plug and the open hole where the trunk lid mounts). Just to hold it down in place. Similar to how the stock on holds down on the edges.

Other than that I needed to replace the front J Bolt(which is actually an L) because it was popping off if I pushed it to one side or the other. I do not believe that the steal bracket I made will be bendable or will break under any conditions. I think the roof will have a failure first.

But I need your opinion to ensure I am not missing anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Below are the parts I will be shopping for from ebay to replace the ones I will be using on my hard top.



Prices from a online parts place with part numbers



The part number labeled as 15 is the part I have modified so it will no longer be usable on the convertible again.
 

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$480 per top is not a viable option for me.

I will look at the mounting kit that I have to see if anything is missing or significantly different, but it looks pretty close to me. I don't know why the rear bracket would need to be attached anywhere other than the hinges, though. The EDAG installation kit has a clip in the b-pillar area on both sides of the car. I'll take pictures if you want to see them.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Agreed it was pretty - "Holy &*#*@" That is expensive. But as mentioned you can take them off your top with destroying your top. 4 screws per section then doublesided sticky tape. The only part you would have to replace are the rear on each side labeled as part 15 at $180 total it becomes more viable option if this works as I expect. And then you can wait until the parts become available on ebay and buy them. Then it is a simple manner of just swapping them back and forth.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok need opinions - To me the roof is missing some lights. I really like lights and purchased some high powered LED's. I have 2 initial options pictured and a 3rd I don't think I want to do because it will make my car look like an undercover police car.

Option 1 -


Option 2 -


Option 3 - would be inside the car. I would take out the sun visors(Which really server no purpose) and mount the lights there. It looks cool but makes me look like an undercover cop which I don't want to get in trouble for. I am going to still test it tonight to see if I am willing to take the chance.

Thoughts?

Am finishing the window trim tonight so I will have pictures of how it ends up.
 

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hmmm, I've never owned a car with lights on the roof, above the windshield. Semi, yes, car, no. To me, inside/outside, forward facing roof lights, not normal. Either could be construed as law enforcement vehicle poser, which could attract unwanted attention from law enforcement personnel.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I was hoping for more of a rally car feel which do have lights just about everywhere including roof. Since I have fog lights and headlights on the bumper already on the roof was the last place I could think of as reasonable. I definitely think option 3 is out the more I think f it.

They are not colored lights and if I do option 1 it should not look police poser so I am hoping I do not attract law enforcement attention. But I could be wrong which has definitely been known to happen.

Thanks for the feedback, you most certainly can be right and I end up using them on my truck.
 

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Just wondered ,cant you find that part in a scrap yard?
 

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One would have to find a Solstice in a scrap yard first... not something you find around here..
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ok I have killed the spot light idea.

Window weatherstripping using the Convertible top rails and weatherstrips.

Rear Rail modified



Installed











It is a tight fit but not tight enough to hamper the door closing. However it pushes the roof up slightly and I do not have the passenger side in yet so it may cause it to get tighter still. I will be adding universal flat weatherstripping to where the roof meets the top of the windshield frame to slightly lift it to hopefully get rid of the movement of the roof and the leaking caused by the lifting of the roof. It is really only a couple millimeter's too tight right now. I think it is still a workable solution but expensive if wanting to maintain your convertible roof seals. I have a saved search on ebay and am just going to take my time looking for the replacement seals/rail at a cheap price.
 

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I found a Solstice in a scrap yard not that long ago ,that is where I got some of my interior parts from.Have you tried car-parts.com?
 
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