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Discussion Starter · #261 ·
I dread removing the trany, which you’ve done multiple times. So saying that about the wastegate is saying something!

Good luck! I’m glad you’ve at least got her up and running...
truth man. Thats how bad it was. I would rather pull the tranny again. Keep in mind i have the wastegate plumbed back into the cat so even more stuff in the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #262 ·
truth man. Thats how bad it was. I would rather pull the tranny again. Keep in mind i have the wastegate plumbed back into the cat so even more stuff in the way.
Having said that I have a feeling I will need to pull the turbo to double check the manifold bolts on the bottom of the manifold. I can’t quite get to all of them with the turbo on.

I will probably pull the BOV to check as per KGs recommendations first but I can feel it in my future.
Maybe I’ll get lucky …
 

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You don't have to pull the wastegate all you would need to do is take the line off of it and unscrew the fitting to see if there is an o-ring or a compression washer.

I have a feeling that it might be the bypass valve making noise. or it's a weld blob inside the output pipe on the turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #264 ·
You don't have to pull the wastegate all you would need to do is take the line off of it and unscrew the fitting to see if there is an o-ring or a compression washer.

I have a feeling that it might be the bypass valve making noise. or it's a weld blob inside the output pipe on the turbo.
I will definitely check those first as they are the easiest to check.
 

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Discussion Starter · #265 ·
Well, shoot. I got the "Fluidampr" yesterday and opened the box only to discover they sent me the install and removal tool and not the harmonic balancer itself.
I bypassed CarIDs horrible after sales service and called the actual distributor's phone number (was on the packing slip).
Sure enough they do not have any 650111s. So I then called "Sales" at CarID (not support mind you) and explained the situation and asked the sales person to actually check the inventory system because if the quantity they think they have is from the distributor i called, their information was incorrect.
Long story short they admitted it was a mistake and are unable to provide one. I have been bouncing around the internet and aside from an Australian Ebay seller who says they have one at $800, ther aint nothin out there. Since there is no way to call the Australian reseller I am not going down that rabbit hole.
I guess i am going to have to give up on that idea. Booo.
 

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For goodness sake, the LNF isn't some obscure engine that virtually nobody has tuned. It is an engine that was cranked out in the hundreds of thousands, and installed by GM on many performance variants of many models. Which have in turn been modded and tuned by thousands. It is unbelievable that neither ATI nor Fluidampr will have kept manufacturing and stocking the damper pulleys. I am shocked...

Maybe, just maybe, if you search for a damper pulley for the current 2.0T Camaro (LTG I think?), you will find a pulley that fits? I'm not sure if the current gen 3 (gen 4?) crank is compatible with the LNF. I hope it is, and wish you luck on finding something that is compatible...
 

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Here is a damper from ZZP's website. I don't know whether it's compatible to the LNF, but a quick call to ZZP might clear that doubt. Hope it fits!

 

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Discussion Starter · #268 ·
For goodness sake, the LNF isn't some obscure engine that virtually nobody has tuned. It is an engine that was cranked out in the hundreds of thousands, and installed by GM on many performance variants of many models. Which have in turn been modded and tuned by thousands. It is unbelievable that neither ATI nor Fluidampr will have kept manufacturing and stocking the damper pulleys. I am shocked...

Maybe, just maybe, if you search for a damper pulley for the current 2.0T Camaro (LTG I think?), you will find a pulley that fits? I'm not sure if the current gen 3 (gen 4?) crank is compatible with the LNF. I hope it is, and wish you luck on finding something that is compatible...
I think ATI still has a pulley however theirs does not offer the front accesory pulley so i would have to be willing to delete the power steering, which i am not.
Fluidampr themselves there was never enough interest in the 650111 and that they made a few batches but they ended up sitting on shelves for years not getting sold so they ceased production of this model about 8 years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #269 ·
Here is a damper from ZZP's website. I don't know whether it's compatible to the LNF, but a quick call to ZZP might clear that doubt. Hope it fits!

I can call but essentially no front pulley = no power steering. There are some older threads here on the forum where people claimed that ATI would custom make you one and then other folk replied they had called ATI who had told them flat out no. I also called ATI and they told me "no" as well.
Additionally, ATI is tuned specifically for higher RPM effectiveness for racing and indeed my problem is down in the low RPMs.
The Fluidampr had the attractive feature of being a broader band absorber...
Either way, unless i am able to score an NOS 650111, or decide to delete Power Steering and go with ATI, not gonna happen.
 

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I see. I didn't realize you'd be having to let go of your power steering.

If you enter in "kgschlosser mode", here's an idea for you: swap to hidro-electric steering. It uses an electric pump (though I believe @kgschlosser has deleted his power steering entirely and swears the wheel doesn't get too heavy). Or, retrofit an electric steering rack... I believe the electric pump route is easier. Basically the pump will operate whenever you turn the wheel, and turn off when you stop turning. I'm not sure how the detection of wheel movement is handled. I had a VW, then later a Peugeot with this kind of steering. In terms of feeling the road it's just as nice as the mechanical pump driven setup. Whereas the electric assisted racks are all across the board in terms of feel, some being very disconnected to the road, others too touchy and sensitive etc. etc. There has to be a GM vehicle that used this setup at some point in time...
 

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Discussion Starter · #271 ·
I see. I didn't realize you'd be having to let go of your power steering.

If you enter in "kgschlosser mode", here's an idea for you: swap to hidro-electric steering. It uses an electric pump (though I believe @kgschlosser has deleted his power steering entirely and swears the wheel doesn't get too heavy). Or, retrofit an electric steering rack... I believe the electric pump route is easier. Basically the pump will operate whenever you turn the wheel, and turn off when you stop turning. I'm not sure how the detection of wheel movement is handled. I had a VW, then later a Peugeot with this kind of steering. In terms of feeling the road it's just as nice as the mechanical pump driven setup. Whereas the electric assisted racks are all across the board in terms of feel, some being very disconnected to the road, others too touchy and sensitive etc. etc. There has to be a GM vehicle that used this setup at some point in time...
I have read not so great things about the cobalts electric power steering. Also at that point I am going to far down the rabbit hole to solve this issue.
All good. I have some email inquiries out to some small performance shops around the country that "claim" to have some in stock. I even called Dave at DDM to see if they had a lead on where to look or any used oulls. He said it had been a long while since someone even asked.
Maybe i'll get lucky. I am resigned to folding on this one though as it appears i am very late to the party.
 

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I have read not so great things about the cobalts electric power steering.
Do you know whether the Cobalt uses a pure electric system (EPS), or a hydroelectric system (HEPS)? I don't think very greatly of the EPS, but HEPS would still use the original steering rack and hoses, tubes, fluid, it's just the pump that becomes electric. With EPS you delete all the hydraulics and have a servo motor inside the car just below your steering wheel which is geared to the steering shaft and will turn in the direction you are turning. They are usually artificial and disconnected from the road and require a complex software calibration (they have their own ECU).
 

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DO NOT do electric power steering conversion!!!


I would call Fluidampyr and ask them if they would be willing to do a limited run. I would buy one so you have 2 sales. I do not know how many sales they would need to make it worth while. I cannot imagine that there would be any specific tooling needed like a cast mold being set up. It should be just CNC and lathe. Retooling costs should be a non issue I would imagine.

You may also get some other people on here that are interested in changing the damper. I am because O am remove the balance shafts and also because I am running a much higher about of power from the engine and the OE damper is not going to be able to manage it properly. I am crossing my fingers with it also being able to offset the removal of the dual mass flywheel.

While I do not have power steering currently I may end up having to put it back into the vehicle as I get older. so having the accessory drive pulley is something I would want to keep.

They don't have to design anything. It's already designed. when they stop making something they don't throw those designs away. In these cases money talks. so enough people that pre buy it they will do a limited run. The cost would depend on the number of people buying.

I will call them and see what I can work out... I am betting we can get them to make them. The designs are already paid for so it's basically a profit thing for them and that's a good thing for us.
 

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Just got off the horn with fluidampyr. They are going to e-mail me in the coming days with #ordered, cost per unit for a limited run. They are willing to do it. Just gotta get he magic numbers. So all hope is not lost yet.

The guy I spoke with did also say that the damper should help with quieting down the transmission when converting from a dual mass to a single mass flywheel. He was in agreement that both the balancer and the dual mass flywheel work together to act as a single balancer/damper. By putting in a single mass flywheel you loose a chunk of the dampening ability and that is contributing to the noises at idle. He said it will not remove 100% of it but it will help.

So that's good to know.
 
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had as in past tense. That does not good to us to know that...
 

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Discussion Starter · #277 ·
Pwerks had the last fluidamper available
"Had" like it is already sold?
;(
KG, let us know what you come up with on a minimum run. I am wodering if John can poke at the Sky forum for interest? Maybe, just maybe we could get enough folk interested. I am predicting it will be a little tough as it will be hard to prove it's value without at least one of us (I volunteer "me") testing it's effectiveness on a Dual Mass Delete....
 

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Anyone that has done any performance upgrades and has the car tuned and is producing more then 15% above the stock rating should change the harmonic balancer. The stock balancer is only going to be able to handle the twist of the crank shaft that is caused by the factory power output with a little bit of wiggle room. anything above that is placing excessive stress on their crank and is ill advised to do that.

The other thing is the ability to get an upgraded balancer that has the accessory pulley is important more so now then in the past. If it helps with dampening the gear lash even a small amount that is a marketing thing they will have over ATI. There is going to be an increase in the number of repair being done due to age and mileage. While a lot of the Solstices are not seeing a whole lot of miles a year, after 14 years or so it's to the point where things like clutches are going to need to be replaced. The guy on the phone said that the damper was designed for performance reasons. I agreed with him on that. I also said that there is a high number of Solstices that are still on the roads and have been upgraded. The number of clutches that will need to be replaced is going to increase and the people that have the power upgrades are going to want to put in a better clutch. Part of that usually involves replacing the flywheel. This is where we run into an issue. performance vs noises. A large number of the vehicles owners are in the 50 to 50 year old range, while they like performance things like rattles and clanks coming from the transmission is not something they are willing to have. While the noises will not hurt anything it's still not wanted.

How much longer is it going to be until the flywheel is discontinued?? I am better maybe 2 or 3 years. Once there is no more OE flywheel available a single mass one is going to be what it gets replaced with. I told the guy that their product came and went before it should have. Because of the accessory pulley that would make their product the only thing that would have been available to help quiet things down when GM stops making the dual mass flywheel. Guy said.. Interesting... never looked at it that way.. They may start to manufacture them again if there is an interest. That interest might only need to be in the form of say 20 or 30 people calling them and asking about availability.

This is the trick. The numbers I get from them is not so we can have a limited production run. Those numbers they are giving me are the numbers where it would make sense for them to do a run. That is the number of people that would need to call and ask about availability in order to have them do a run of them...

It's a sneaky way to get the magic number of people that need to show interest before they would start making them again. Ask friends and family to call. Have them call and ask about availability and then be all super bummed out about them discontinuing them. enough calls and guess what? they will make them again. Just need to know how many phone calls have to be made.
 

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I planted the seed for them making them again. get the proper number of people calling to ask is the last step.
 
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