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It should make the engine run smoother. That is the purpose of an upgraded damper.
 

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2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
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Discussion Starter · #282 ·
My friend is trying to buy a stock flywheel, but it’s back ordered or maybe they are already discontinued. In my opinion the fluidamper made my car to run smoother.
Dave at PAW verified they are gone gone
 

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Lets see where I get with them making a limited run.

Oh send an e-mail to Dave and tell him they are willing to do a limited run of them and we are just waiting on cost to quantity from them. Then ask how many we should put him down for..

LOL
 
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2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
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Discussion Starter · #284 ·
Lets see where I get with them making a limited run.

Oh send an e-mail to Dave and tell him they are willing to do a limited run of them and we are just waiting on cost to quantity from them. Then ask how many we should put him down for..

LOL
I’ll emailed Dave just now let’s see what he says..
 

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I just checked my phone.

He is interested tho.. That's awesome because he will buy in a larger quantity so that will bump the numbers.

I am going to start a new thread for this. I will explain what exactly a damper does and why it's an important upgrade
 
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2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
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Discussion Starter · #291 ·
I just checked my phone.

He is interested tho.. That's awesome because he will buy in a larger quantity so that will bump the numbers.

I am going to start a new thread for this. I will explain what exactly a damper does and why it's an important upgrade
Good idea on the new thread. I poked around as a guest on the Sky forum and I didn't see any mention of a Fluidampr, and one mention of a "fluidamper". So I am not sure if the Sky folk know and/or care about it. I'd really like to be able to test it against my gearbox chatter and see if it makes a difference. I'd be willing to bet most folks that go with a Dual Mass delete that comes with a performance clutch would at least be interested if it can actually reduce the chatter. I don't care what the internet says about it being "harmless". Having my gears chatter due to extra vibration is adding wear (even if it is minimal) on the gear box, and less importantly but still valid, I dont enjoy the sound.
As SSolstice has mentioned (and i have read from many other end users from different cars) the engine runs more smoothly, and that in and of itself is of interest from a longevity and quality feel standpoint, at least to me.
 

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Because I really know how a damper works and what it does and also how the dual mass flywheel functions is why I feel that it is going to make a pretty sizeable change to the noise. You should change the damper regardless. It is easier for me to explain why instead of typing it out. Give me a call and I will explain it to you. Once I explain it you will more then likely agree it is going to make a difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #293 ·
Because I really know how a damper works and what it does and also how the dual mass flywheel functions is why I feel that it is going to make a pretty sizeable change to the noise. You should change the damper regardless. It is easier for me to explain why instead of typing it out. Give me a call and I will explain it to you. Once I explain it you will more then likely agree it is going to make a difference.
I actually do understand it. It would be getting the interest of enough other owners to make this a worthwhile endeavor for everyone, including Fluidampr is the main concern. In my conversation with Fluidampr a week ago the guy said the 650111s just sat on the shelf for years because of a lack of interest.
 

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lack of interest is due to lack of knowledge. Educate on what the dampers purpose is and interest is likely to increase.
 

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06 solstice sliver.wicked coupe,dirtbike,4wheeler
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Ive used more fluid dampners than I can count, I doubt it will help with clutch issues, but it will stop the clutch issues from getting to the timing chains&valve train as harmonics,thats one of the main things they do.also bearings last longer. if you want to see some real test on them Rousch racing up in livonia Mi has done extensive testing on them. probably somethen on utube from them. for the cutch chatter...somethen isant right. it could be many things. on my old street bug with 2332 cc ( based on the old 1500 cc aircooled vw motor) it didnt chatter, but it did have 3 blue hot spots on the flywheel witch were caused by the 11 pound chromoly flywheel that was light & thin and had 3 oil drain holes in the flywheel, witch would cause just enough flex/deformation to create 3 hot spots., not random hot spots like a old used up clutch normaly looks like but 3 evenly spaced hot spots. remember when the clutch is engauged(foot off clutch) there is no pressure trying to deform the flywheel, just equal clamping forces, but when you push the clutch pedel then the flywheel sees whatever # that pressure plate is pushing agnist the crank shaft from the very outside of the flywheel. some will flex a little some a lot.and any drill holes, slots or whatever will affect that deformation.Ive never looked at the gxp or the after market flywheel for these things , but that could be it or sometehn else.some people like to grese the splines...and over grease them (it dont take much to over grese them, put it on al the splines then wipe it all off with good clean rag a few times to get the grease out of the splines,and thats enough grease, it almost needs none at all.)and cause hotspots/chatter from the grease getting on the face of the clutch.also pressure plate integrity can do it., miss aliginement of the bell housing & engine & more. as well as the type of disc used sprung, not sprung,material etc.and it's quality....clutch disc qualty is kinda a hit & miss thing, even for the very expensive ones. when you find one that works, that dont mean the next one thats the same will. but usualy everyday clutches dont mater much at all it's the HP ones then thats when issues crop up., my first clutch behind my 2332 wsent enough pressure plate stage 1, but it was perfect for one of my other smaller motors(2028 cc) with the disc I was using, but a different disc and it's enough for the 2332, possiably enough for my 2393 cc motor too I dont know, never tried it. also hp clutches dont like a lot of travel (as in how far they move, not how far you go) most also do not like being sliped at all, put it in gear let the clutch.no slow let it out, no feathering to stay on a hill,thats what a break is for, just let that sucker out and get the hell outa there. some clutches hit soft some hit hard.some slip on launch some dont. ass in the make up of the clutch. feramic/bronze etc clutches usually slip just a tad then lock tight. Witch some cars need especially if the trans is kinda week.( like the VW transaxles, even the built ones) the harmonic balancers are mostly for controlling the twisting of the crank shaft . over the road big haulers have had fluid dampners for ever,...I dont know but a very long time as well as most other big diesel engines in boats&other things. every time that cylinder fires the crank gets twisted this way than that way.it dont take long untill that crank is broken or bearings dead.and those big disel motors run low rpm and hit oh so hard to make all that TQ. I think the racing division probably cam along lator after somebody realized we needed them. ATI's dampners have "O"rings inside them and are tunable, and yes have to be rebuilt. the fluid dampners dont. there are many china made fluid dampners on the market too......Ive never run one.
 

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Oh crap. I forgot to take photos of the pulley. It is a damper. It's an exceedingly small one but it is there. It has to be sharing the responsibility with the dual mass flywheel.

I think the damper is going to help, quite possibly by a lot depending on the design if the damper. Seeing as how it is certified and NHRA will allow them to be used I would imagine the damper was constructed for use in a vehicle that did not have a dual mass flywheel. If that is in fact the case then the damper would be designed to handle all of the dampening that would be needed.

The Solstice is the first manual transmission vehicle I have ever owned in my life that has a dual mass flywheel. I can tell you that all of the vehicle that I have owned before it never had any gear lash noises and they were all single mass flywheels. This has got to be a correctable thing because if it didn't exist before dual mass flywheels then it can be handled when removing one from a vehicle.

The rattle is caused by the pulsing from the input shaft on the transmission which when the clutch is released is connected to crank shaft. That pulsing is coming from the cylinder detonations. The crankshaft pulsing like that is not good for it and is only going to happen if the harmonic balancer is not up to the task.
 

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Discussion Starter · #297 ·
Long overdue update. After getting a recommendation from John on a machine shop, i commisioned a build of the Fluidampr pulley.
At long last and many interruptions later, i finally got a call today that the pulley is done and will be shipping tomorrow!
Greg just sent me a picture of the completed pulley today. (What a nice guy by the way).
I plan on test fitting the pulley to the fluidampr first and then once i am sure it fits, i will need to send it off to be hard anodized...
PS> A custom one-off pulley cost twice what the fluidampr did. I can now see why race guys are always looking for sponsorships :)
PPS> In case some distant future person ever needs it, I have posted the CAD pdf for this pulley here.

Automotive design Handwriting Font Automotive tire Engineering
 

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If they didn't have to do any CAD work and you paid paid 800 bucks for that you bent over pretty good. That thing is almost entirely made on a lathe and would require a person to only change the bits if it doesn't have a way to automatically change them. The material cost is < 100 bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #299 ·
It was
If they didn't have to do any CAD work and you paid paid 800 bucks for that you bent over pretty good. That thing is almost entirely made on a lathe and would require a person to only change the bits if it doesn't have a way to automatically change them. The material cost is < 100 bucks.
was $600 which i thought was fair being they only had a PDF of the cad to work with.
Considering that i am not even sure what cad looked like back in 2007, i got lucky even getting the pdf.
He told me upfront all the money was really in the setup. Obviously economy of scale here.
If i had been able to order 10 of them the “per” price would have been significantly less
 

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1/2 the money went into the CAD. Setup really isn't all that much if the place has newer machines. Old machines take a long while to set up
 
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