[AppSt2008]

Been a long time since I've been on here, but glad to be back.
Anyhow, I've navigated my way through little odds and ends issues along the way, but the one that has nagged me for some time has been the boost leak issue.
I've currently got the front bumper off, ready to replace the lower/intercooler worm gear clamps with t-bolts.

Meanwhile, I thought I'd pry some knowledge out of the experience on here.
Long story short, large hose coming off the motor kept slipping and leaking boost. Big shocker, pretty common. Battled it for some time before I slapped t-bolt clamps on there.
Prior, I had only had the common CEL for the boost leak appear. Since then, I began developing more agonizing attributes and CEL's.

My question:
It appears the lower hoses have taken on the stress of the super tight t-bolt on the large turbo hose. The appear to have moved further up/down the pipes/intercooler as a result, hence why I am changing out the lower worm gear junk with more t-bolt clamps (2.75" I believe?). Would some boost leak coming from the lower hoses alone cause the following codes, which I never had occur prior to putting the upper large t-bolt clamp on?

- P2177 (system too lean)
- P2188 (system too rich)
- P0101 (MAF) >>> I think this was what came through prior w/ the large hose
- P0106 (Manifold Absolute Pressure)
- P0236 (Turbocharger Boost Sensor)

I think these all sound reasonable for losing boost down at those lower hoses, but the clamps weren't particularly "loose", so I wanted to ask about any experience that might indicate I have problems elsewhere while I'm in the middle of it all.

Thanks in advance, guys!

Jared

 

[AppSt2008]

Judging by the silence, it appears I'll just have to find out the hard way!
I'll post the results, when I ever get the bumper repaired and back on the car.

 

[GS Stage 1]

The dreaded P0101 is most likely the indicator of your issue. The rest of those codes are probably just systemic results of secondary code being thrown.

That being said: Typically there will not be enough of a boost leak from the clamps on the IC, to cause an issue. But it is possible that is your current failure point.

Are you still running the OEM IC?

If so, then there are known failures of the OEM IC:
1. IC "Balloons or Mushrooms" in the middle. When observing the IC from the front, if the center has expanded, it will be very obvious. The center pipes will be larger in diameter than at the ends and most likely the entire IC will have stretched out in the center resulting in the IC being taller in the middle than the ends.
2. Split in the end tank weld on the passenger side. This one is very difficult to see, with the IC in the car. Normally, you pretty much have to at least jack the car up and pull off the bottom skirting. But since you have the bumper off, you should be able to observe from the front.

 

[TomatoSoup]

The primary culprits for boost codes are:

1) The throttle body clamp (that you replaced) and the big clamp on the other end of the rubber tube from the throttle body.
2) Do you have GMPP tune, with crimped sensor wires? If so, they need to be soldered.
3) Ballooned and leaking I/C (as GS said)

It's far more rare that the I/C connector tubes leak, even with the factory worm clamps.

 

[AppSt2008]

I am still running the OEM intercooler.
I'll check it this weekend and see if I notice either of the issues you mentioned.
One the SES/CEL goes off, after it sits a while, it will drive with full boost for some time.
The first time I remember having the issue a few weeks after I put the large t-bolt clamp on was driving at a steady highway speed, the engine losing power and the turbo/boost "shuttering". If I kept the rpms high I could keep it from happening, but if I was on the edge of the throttle-boost activation point it would continue shuttering on me. It seemed to only do this after longer periods of driving.
Otherwise the car just stayed in the limited boost mode.

Like I said, after the drive cycle cleared the light, it seemed to take full boost and acceleration in stride. Having difficulty connecting the dots, I wanted to see if the code combination brought anything else to mind.

Thanks again for those comments!
I'm going to check that tight away this weekend.

 

[AppSt2008]

The primary culprits for boost codes are:

1) The throttle body clamp (that you replaced) and the big clamp on the other end of the rubber tube from the throttle body.
2) Do you have GMPP tune, with crimped sensor wires? If so, they need to be soldered.
3) Ballooned and leaking I/C (as GS said)

It's far more rare that the I/C connector tubes leak, even with the factory worm clamps.

I do have the GMPP.
Dang...may have to invite the bro over for a soldering party. Ha.
That seems, in my mind, VERY much a possibility for the erratic behavior. It definitely seems like an electrical piece could be in the puzzle. Shoot...

FWIW, I replaced both clamps on the throttle body hose, so I think that should not be it.
Again, these extra codes came about after I replaced both of those clamps.
Wonder if I did some mishandling of the wires to need soldering...hmm.

 

[GS Stage 1]

Definitely start with soldering the GMPP sensor splices first. That is a highly likely failure point. Even if that isn't your problem now, it will likely become a problem sometime in the future.

But also inspect that IC carefully. I have the GMPP tune and have gone through two OEM ICs already. One to mushrooming and one to split end tank.

The "mushroom" symptom does not cause an air leak; but the expanded tubes in the middle cause erratic air velocities coming out the other end: Which the TMAP and MAP read as variable mass air pressures that are outside of anticipated parameters.

 

[AppSt2008]

Definitely start with soldering the GMPP sensor splices first. That is a highly likely failure point. Even if that isn't your problem now, it will likely become a problem sometime in the future.

But also inspect that IC carefully. I have the GMPP tune and have gone through two OEM ICs already. One to mushrooming and one to split end tank.

The "mushroom" symptom does not cause an air leak; but the expanded tubes in the middle cause erratic air velocities coming out the other end: Which the TMAP and MAP read as variable mass air pressures that are outside of anticipated parameters.

I'll be getting on the soldering soon for sure!

As for the intercooler, by your previous description, it seems mine has not defected so far...?

 

[LatinVenom]

That IC looks fine from the pictures. Best thing is to solder the connections even if they look good on a visual inspection.

 

[GS Stage 1]

Yours looks good.

Split end tank seam looks like this:



Mushroomed IC looks like this:

 

[TX08manualGXP]

Thanks. Now I know what to look for.

 

[rob the elder]

While you are in there, pull the drain plug from the intercooler drain hose just to be sure you do not have an accumulation of crud, oil or water in there that could be causing issues.

Did you check the turbo for oil? Read the threads on the DDM oil catch can.

 

[TX08manualGXP]

Here you go with that drain plug again. I thought there was no plug in the intercooler and all you could do was remove the hose? I want to inspect mine as my normal boost is 14psi. every once in a while I'll see 15 or a 16 but only for a split second. No CEL so far either.

 

[GS Stage 1]

Any Kappa running the OEM tune at sea level will command 14-17 PSI, depending on a variety of factors. And every car will be slightly different as well. If you consistently see 14 as your "norm"; then you have one of the more efficient turbos. Observed Boost Command is no indication of what kind of power you are actually producing, just a general guideline.

And from what I remember about the OEM IC: Yes, you have to disconnect the bottom "catch hose", there is no actual plug.

 

[TX08manualGXP]

well, I have seen a 17 a couple times and I'm definitely getting more torque than the NA so I'm sure it's making 260-260. I've tightened clamps but haven't pulled the hose yet. will do soon though. Thanks.

 

[rob the elder]

well, I have seen a 17 a couple times and I'm definitely getting more torque than the NA so I'm sure it's making 260-260. I've tightened clamps but haven't pulled the hose yet. will do soon though. Thanks.

Do not remember if we have shared this info with you yet, but its a thread generated by a GM powertrain engineer addressing specifically atmospheric impacts on boost levels

http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f43/boost-levels-atmospheric-conditions-thread-54423/

 

[AppSt2008]

Thanks for the info, guys.

Looks like I need to solder the gmpp wires, check the intercooler drain hose, and check the turbo for oil.
I just picked up the lower t-bolt clamps at NAPA, so hopefully they work, as their clamps are listed in a size range, which should work for the 2.5" hose size.

Will try to get updates when I make it there.
Anybody need pictures while I've got it apart?

 

[The Marshal]

Can someone provide details on the soldering of the wires after the gmpp tune (i.e. where they are located, how to access, etc.)?

 

[TomatoSoup]

Can someone provide details on the soldering of the wires after the gmpp tune (i.e. where they are located, how to access, etc.)?

The two sensors that are replaced as part of the GMPP kit, are the MAP and TMAP ones shown in the photo below. To do that, the wires to the old sensor connectors are cut and crimped to the new ones around 4 inches from the sensors and (usually) taped back up to hide the ugliness. Untape the wiring harness to each sensor and you find the crimps that you have to cut out and then solder the wires together instead.

 

[TX08manualGXP]

Do not remember if we have shared this info with you yet, but its a thread generated by a GM powertrain engineer addressing specifically atmospheric impacts on boost levels

Boost levels and Atmospheric Conditions thread

No, I never saw that. Interesting. I'll try and find a place I can do it. I do have a question though, what's this waste gate 4 turns business? Is that something you do once you install a kit or can the setting be changed on a stock LNF?