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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Please excuse my n00bness...but this is my first turbo car. I just bought a 2008 Solstice GXP with 68k miles on it. Seemed like a lot of miles, but I test drove one in 2009 and LOVED the power on the standard and my MR2 MKII finally died on me. This is one of the few cars I would consider an upgrade for my old MR2, and found one at a price that was hard to beat. My question is this...when should I expect to see the 12-20psi on the indicator?

The car has good acceleration, but seems like less than what I remember from the test drive 4 years ago. Granted, this is an automatic and the test drive was in a manual...but still. After digging through this forum, I decided to watch the boost indicator on the dash to see if maybe the turbo wasn't acting right since everyone (reviewers as well as in the forums) just loves the pickup no matter the tranny.

Under normal acceleration, boost stays at 0 and stays that way until I really stomp on the pedal...at which point it climbs quickly to 6psi through the gears and up to 60 in a hurry. Going beyond and up to 100mph, it never gets above 6psi even with the pedal on the floor.

I was reading a lot of posts in here about the limp throttle when there are issues, but everyone seems to claim that only happens in WOT...which I avoid because my gas mileage drops to 13mpg within seconds. Luckily, it is still under the powertrain warranty and I got the extended warranty, but I hate to put it in the shop (before the new plates have even shown up) if my expectations are just off because I haven't ever owned a turbo car.
 

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Welcome to the forum

The post indicated is based on local air density. Full boost at sea level of 14 or 16 is equivalent to 20 or 22 at 5000 feet. Absolute numer is not important. At sea level, a factory tuned car should show 14 or slightly higher. With the GMPP tune, closer to 18.

If you are only seeing 5 or 6 at max boost, then there is an issue.

Have a dealer pull a vehicle history report for you. Verify which tune it has. Factory or GMPP. If you have no CEL and are getting low boost, try rebooting the car and test. Else have your dealer diagnose the issue.
 

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You should be getting at least 18psi of boost. My first suggestion would be to ensure that your intake filter is clean and unobstructed. My second suggestion would be to check the clamps that secure the air tubes form the turbo to the Intercooler and the outlet from the intercooler to the engine. There will be several other members that will chime in on this thread to assist. If you haven't bought the car yet, don't until you know for sure what the solution is!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks so much! This one is running full factory with no upgrades at all. I couldn't pass it up is that it was one owner and that owner was elderly and just looking for a car to drive around the hill country in this area. Normally, I steer clear of a used sports car because you don't know how the previous owner really treated the car. Also something to mention, I am in the Austin, TX area...so altitude is close to nil here. Sounds like I better get it in to be checked and will check the inlet hoses prior to taking it in.

I found several TSBs for this issue as well, but wasn't sure if I was just reading too far into it...sounds like I wasn't. :cryin:
 

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well, the car you drove before could have had a tune and yours does not. I did the same thing. drove one that was obviously tuned and then when I bought mine, noticed the difference. if you live in Austin, I doubt you will see 18 psi with the stock tune. I'm in Houston and the average for me is about 13. still shouth, I always get at least 10 so having only 6 sounds like it's leaking. does it pull real hard in 2nd and 3rd gear? maybe you could put it in 3rd at a 20mph roll, stomp on it and clock how long it takes to get to 60 and I'll do the same with mine and compare.
 

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Welcome. Depending on where you live in the US, you should see between 12psi and 18psi of boost. If it has the GMPP tune, you should see 16-20psi of boost. To find out if you have the GMPP, look at the “cool side” of your intercooler piping. The MAF sensor will only be held in with one bolt. You are somehow in “limp” mode without a CEL (check engine light). I would definetly take it in! What city are you in?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
well, small update. I haven't done any timings yet... However, I did notice something odd. When I turn off the traction control and stomp on it, it made it up to 14psi before I had to slow down. Turn on the traction control again, and it completely killed the boost while driving and took it back down to 6psi. Talk about a "Driving Miss Daisy Button"...thinking it will be going in to check that sensor versus a leak., and may get the GMPP turbo upgrade added while I am there.
 

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That sounds like you a select-tune, probably a Trifecta. That was sort of way mine ran when I asked for a tune to remove my Trifecta tune. After that we had to completely over write the ECM from the GM servers, another thing I did not like about Trifect.
 

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That sounds like you a select-tune, probably a Trifecta. That was sort of way mine ran when I asked for a tune to remove my Trifecta tune. After that we had to completely over write the ECM from the GM servers, another thing I did not like about Trifect.
That was not the case for me. I am preparing for a HP Tuner tune. Have to get the Trifecta tune out and go back to stock. For me, I simply uploaded the original setup file that Vince sent me when I purchased the tune.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Interesting...guess I will have the dealership take a look. I also found that the return on the turbo was loose and the hose was almost completely off. Putting the hose fully onto the return, got me MUCH better response (seeing 16psi WOT from 2nd before got to 60mph). Turning off the Traction Control was also a MUST to get better than the 6psi I was seeing before. Totally goofy that the TC was doing that whether traction was lost or in a turn...just from a stop and it was like driving an old Yugo. Thanks everyone for the ideas! Thinking I may go with the GMPP Turbo Tune next time it goes in the shop...$450 to reprogram the ECM and get another 10hp/torque seems like a winner to me.
 

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Hmmmm....this is interesting. Maybe the previous owner had a younger driver and didn't want them to have that much power! LOL... So instead of a tune to give more power, he had a tune to reduce power....
 

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With the Trifecta, when it is switched off you go back to whatever your base tune was - factory, GMPP, whatever, so Ghost is right - no reason to drop below the 12-16 psi you normally get (to say you have to get any specific number like 18 is simply incorrect and misleading).

Trifecta is about the only one I know that turns on and off like that. Might want to eliminate that as a possibility by emailing your serial number to them and asking if they ever tuned it.
 

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Now that you tightened the charge pipes which was surely your cause for loss of boost, I'd stomp on it in 2nd and 3rd with the TC on and see what your boost levels are and then turn the TC off and check again. if it's a lot higher then you have a tune. just be sure and use high octane gas whenever you have the button off. enjoy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Now that you tightened the charge pipes which was surely your cause for loss of boost, I'd stomp on it in 2nd and 3rd with the TC on and see what your boost levels are and then turn the TC off and check again. if it's a lot higher then you have a tune. just be sure and use high octane gas whenever you have the button off. enjoy.
Ok, checked it finally. With the TC engaged, I top out at 8psi...without the TC engaged, I saw my first 16psi. I am still checking around, but the dealership wants $400 to reflash my ECM to remove any tunes and then apply updates. Thinking I will just bite the bullet and get the GMPP Tune since that is roughly the same cost as a reflash and I get additional HP/Torque out of the deal...and doesn't void the extended warranty I purchased. :thumbs:
 

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Yeah, if you are worried about the warranty then that's the way to go. just make sure they are including a tune and not just returning it to stock as that sounds cheap for the GMPP tune. the budget tune from trifecta is $200 +/- cable deposit that will give you the results you are looking for and you can select it to be on all the time or on/off thru different controlls.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I found the kit on this site:
19212670 Turbocharged engine power upgrade kit

$462 plus shipping, so sounds like a good deal to me...just have some labor involved with the reflash and install. Still have to check with the dealer, though. It sounds pretty simple to install (and then cut out connectors and solder them), but don't want to void the warranty over something simple...especially since I have only had it about a week so far.
 

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soldering those connectors is the only way to go and since it's part of a GM kit, you should be good. If you can, search for a GM dealer that used to sell pontiac's and hope that there's still a tech or two that's familiar with the solstice. if you can't, call and make sure before you install or stop by and ask. sounds like you are on the right track. keep us posted.
 

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I found the kit on this site:
19212670 Turbocharged engine power upgrade kit

$462 plus shipping, so sounds like a good deal to me...just have some labor involved with the reflash and install. Still have to check with the dealer, though. It sounds pretty simple to install (and then cut out connectors and solder them), but don't want to void the warranty over something simple...especially since I have only had it about a week so far.
Get the kit from Crate Engine Depot, a supporting vendor here, and they have a plug in harness harness that goes between the old connectors and the new sensors. No cutting, no crimping, no soldering, just plug and reflash.

http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/members/crateenginedepot-7310.html

Cobalt, Solstice, HHR Stage Kit 19212670HK
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
GREAT Idea! CED is more expensive, but the plug-in harness makes up for the time spent with soldering and removing splices from the dealer. It also means you don't have to worry about wires being too short after cutting off the splices as mentioned in other threads. Thanks for the link!!

---probably ought to sticky that link for the rest of us newbies wanting a quick and easy upgrade that doesn't void the warranty.:thumbs::thumbs:
 
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