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Discussion Starter #1
I was painting the calipers on my wife's car yesterday and noticed that the passenger side brake cooling duct is missing... odd, so I looked at the driver's side and it's missing also. Obviously they were never installed at the factory (only had 47 miles on it when purchased) and since I haven't really done anything except oil changes on her car, I hadn't noticed.
Considering that she's probably never going to be driving the car hard enough to need the additional cooling, it's probably not a big deal... BUT, if I decide to get the parts, is it something that can be installed without removing the nose?


Also,how do you remove the caliper guide pins? The manual doesn't explain how to do this, and the last car I did the brakes on just had bolts.

Thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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Thanks TS...
I need to do the e-brake adjustment and I couldn't see behind the rear calipers to figure out how to remove them. It didn't occur to me to look at the fronts... Mondays!
OK then, you don't need to look at the fronts. The rears DO just have bolts on the back.
 

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Those ducts don't much. I call them tire cooling ducts because thats what they really do! That's why the front tire pressures build less on the highway than the rears. Brake ducts need to dump right onto the discs.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
OK then, you don't need to look at the fronts. The rears DO just have bolts on the back.
I was looking to just pop the caliper off and leave the bracket, but either way will work. Thanks.
 

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Those ducts don't much. I call them tire cooling ducts because thats what they really do! That's why the front tire pressures build less on the highway than the rears. Brake ducts need to dump right onto the discs.
:agree::agree::agree:

I neither generate enough heat to benefit from this kind of forced air cooling nor does the design actually provide much forced air cooling.

Last time I checked if you remove the fastners from the front of the inner fender, you can deflect it enough to install the cooling ducts without much effort.
 

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We don't have them on our NA's, and we have the same brakes, basically, therefore, NP..:thumbs:
 

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We don't have them on our NA's, and we have the same brakes, basically, therefore, NP..:thumbs:
True

But the adverts said you were driving more slowly . . . :willy:
 

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Would just leave off those brake ducts. You might be getting a bit more ambient air under the hood. Back in the day there were discussions about diverting the airflow with tubing up into the engine bay, toward a CAI, etc; and then installing non-turbo wheelwell liners.
 

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Oh?
When were you ever on real twisties?
Oh many many times man, we do have a few roads around here that will challenge ya, just no mountain types twisties since our state is "basically" flat lands....:yesnod:
 

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Would just leave off those brake ducts. You might be getting a bit more ambient air under the hood. Back in the day there were discussions about diverting the airflow with tubing up into the engine bay, toward a CAI, etc; and then installing non-turbo wheelwell liners.
In fact I recall a couple of guys using the air holes to feed into the air intake making them more of a "ram air" type setup... Fresh cool air is what is needed I gathered from those conversations..;) Brutus comes to mind, however that was a souped up NA whereas the front was modified to ram air into the intake, it was very effective...:yesnod: My only concerns was water streaming in and somehow making it to the engine, altho all claimed it was impossible..
 

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Those ducts don't much. I call them tire cooling ducts because thats what they really do! That's why the front tire pressures build less on the highway than the rears. Brake ducts need to dump right onto the discs.
Indeed. Right up there with other cosmetic bling that does nothing like the Sky blind hood 'vents'. At least they are there should you want to actually race (road, not drag). We usually lead a piece of flexible tubing to a duct can attached to the suspension upright so that it turns with the wheels, and the duct goes over the rotor (I've used a juice can the right diameter with a slit cut in the side to go over the rotor and tags welded on to bolt to a bracket off the upright).

On a race car, if you manage to hit the flexible ducting with a tire because you didn't work out the mounting very well, the result looks like an explosion in a slinky factory - the duct unwinds and leaves yards of wire with bits of plastic attached trailing under the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the responses guys! No ducts it is...
 

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I was going to ofer mine to sell to you if interested? After installing my RK Sport front bumper, they are of no use to me. The new bumper sticks out about 1 inch to far for the ducts to reach now, not to mention the factory plastic grills are gone now too. But the holes are still there so they are getting some air to the wheel area.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I was going to ofer mine to sell to you if interested? After installing my RK Sport front bumper, they are of no use to me. The new bumper sticks out about 1 inch to far for the ducts to reach now, not to mention the factory plastic grills are gone now too. But the holes are still there so they are getting some air to the wheel area.
Thanks for the offer, but I think I'll just leave 'em as-is. It's been five years, so I don't really think it matters.
 
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