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Discussion Starter #1
Going to change my brake fluid any advice as whether to go with the oem fluid or up grade. I know Sting mentioned Motul /600 dot 4 . I only have about 13,000 miles on the car but may also replace the front brakes with ceramic & ebc red for back pads.
Thanks
 

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I wouldn't bother putting the Red Stuff on the back - the rear brakes do so little i comparison to the fronts that you'll likely never fade them even in hard driving. I run stock on the rear and the EBC Red on the front and it works very well.

For fluid, any good DOT 3 or 4 will do fine. I use Castrol, but that's more out of decades of habit when that was one of the best available race fluids - there are lots of other good ones.
 

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For brake fluid, I would suggest alternating between ATE Super Blue and TYP200 - simply because one is blue and the other gold. The color change really helps you to know when you've flushed all the old stuff out.

Having said that, I used ATE blue last time, but just ordered Pentosin Super DOT4 (gold) from RockAuto for a Springtime fluid change. (I was ordering a batch of filters for all the family cars anyway, but RockAuto doesn't stock ATE fluid.)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If i go with the ebc reds on the front with only 13,000 miles on the original pads do you have to touch the rotors or is it just a straight swap? Thanks.
 

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Did mine at 26000 and my rotors were fine (but I replaced them with drilled and slotted ) . The problem with newer cars are that the rotors are basically throw away they make them thinner for weight savings add in the fact that not too many places machine rotors anymore because of this and replacements have become pretty cheap . I kept my old ones cleaned them up and have them stored with my other Solstice stash in the barn .
 

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I used to work my way through university doing brake turning, among other car related things. The problem with just slotting new pads in there is that there will already be a very smooth, possibly glazed layer with some pad material deposit and that means that the chances of new pads seating properly are compromised. We used to do a light skim to true the rotors - maybe 0.003" a side, and to remove the old layer of build up. You can remove them yourself if you want to and take the to a brake shop, or have them do it all. See the note from EBC on needing parallel surfaces.

EBC says:

It is a complete waste of money to fit new pads if your rotors are badly scored or hollowed. It is also dangerous and can cause a total loss of brake. Check rotor surface condition with a straight edge and if there is more than 0.5mm or 0.020 inches (twenty thousandths) of hollow the rotors must be turned or replaced. This can be done by any brake centre or most machine shops. If you DO NOT turn or replace the rotors you will have low efficiency/dangerous brakes for the first 1000 or more miles and you will tramline your pads and damage them. This is a safety issue and we strongly recommend having a professional mechanic advise if you are not capable of measuring this yourself. With brakes the motto is “Any doubts … see a mechanic”.

EBC can supply new rotors in plain finish OEM style at very competitive prices or sport slotted rotors of two versions. Sport rotors help braking, reduce fade and maintain parallel pad wear throughout the pads life.
 
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