Pontiac Solstice Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
471 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
The antenna on my coupe broke off flush with the base, leaving half the threaded stud in the antenna and the other half below the surface of the wheel well. I have now read over 250 posts on 12-15 threads on the forum regarding whether the threaded stud can be removed with an e-z out tool. Opinions are split almost 50-50. Any advice on how to resolve this issue, short of removing the wheel and plastic panels under the wheel well would be greatly appreciated. Also, would the tool to remove the circular base with the four notches in it be helpful?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,212 Posts
I twisted the one off my 06 and ended up removing the washer and I filed the base down just a little. then used a skinny washer and stuck the new antenna on. The one on my 08 came off easy so it's pretty much a crap shoot.

if you remove the washer you should have enough to get some vice grips on it but chances are, it's not moving. try some penetrating fluid on it over night first.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,505 Posts
Well if you can't get any purchase on it, try the easy-out. If that don't work, you know what you have to do :(
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,318 Posts
Easy outs are tricky on something that small but it can be done if you are careful when drilling into the threaded portion. If you have even 1/16" of the threaded portion sticking up, you can use a Dremel and cut a slot in the top of it and then back it out with a screwdriver.

You can remove the notched doohicky with a pair of snap ring pliers or even small needle nosed pliers. I have used flathead screwdrivers with masking tape on them (to avoid scratches) and tap the piece in the notch to loosen it.

Worst case, the plastic panels aren't too hard to remove. Don't remember if you have to remove the wheel well panel or just the one in the trunk.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
Like TomatoSoup said, about the easy-out, my set came with counter-clockwise drill bits, and sometimes the drill bit was able to loosen the broken stub enough to back it out.
Good luck with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
471 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks, guys!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
162 Posts
Go to Nalley Buick-GMC | Brunswick & Georgia Buick GMC Dealer and look at p/n 1845116. It appears the remaining part of the "stud" is actually part of the bracket below the fender and you need to replace the whole piece.

Either check at local dealer parts counter or call Nalley to ask before doing any drilling.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
471 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Go to Nalley Buick-GMC | Brunswick & Georgia Buick GMC Dealer and look at p/n 1845116. It appears the remaining part of the "stud" is actually part of the bracket below the fender and you need to replace the whole piece.

Either check at local dealer parts counter or call Nalley to ask before doing any drilling.
Yes, I had already done that. The local GMC parts dept. printed out a diagram based on my VIN, which appears to show that the severed threaded "stud" is actually a part of the bracket inside the fender. Now, the question remains how to get at the bracket to replace it...removing the wheel and through the fender well, or by removing the rear compartment trim. It appears to me (upon further review of diagrams) you can get access through the trunk trim on verts, but have to go through the wheel well on coupes.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,195 Posts
Yes, I had already done that. The local GMC parts dept. printed out a diagram based on my VIN, which appears to show that the severed threaded "stud" is actually a part of the bracket inside the fender. Now, the question remains how to get at the bracket to replace it...removing the wheel and through the fender well, or by removing the rear compartment trim. It appears to me (upon further review of diagrams) you can get access through the trunk trim on verts, but have to go through the wheel well on coupes.

I just raised the rear of my coupe to see if the wheel drops enough to get the splash shield out without removing the wheel. The wheel only drops a couple inches, so the wheel needs to come off also. That # handwritten on your illustration is different than what I came up with (15845116). If it were me, I'd replace the base and bracket assy. :jm2c:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
471 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
That # handwritten on your illustration is different than what I came up with (15845116).

If it were me, I'd replace the base and bracket assy. :jm2c:
That's what I intend. Thanks for pointing out the questionable Part #. The parts guy wrote it there...I'll have to double check it, for sure.
EDIT: 25956526 is the new part # for 15845116, according to multiple GM web sites.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,212 Posts
You can remove the notched doohicky with a pair of snap ring pliers or even small needle nosed pliers
I forgot about this. after mine twisted off, I unscrewed "the washer" and determined the stud was not threaded into the base so that's why I trimmed the top of the base, placed a skinny washer over it and the antenna now acts as the nut. I also had to cut the tapered end of the new antenna so the threads started flush with the end. I also used blue loctite since I only hot about 4 turns before it was flush.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,664 Posts
Welcome to the joys of coupe ownership! FYI, that's also how you change the tail light bulbs, so get used to it!

FWIW, while you are doing that, you might want to replace the mast with a shorter Opel version. I did that with minimal loss of reception and it looks more in keeping with the lines of the car (to my eye, anyway). It is 16"
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,318 Posts
Looked up antenna replacement in the service manual. ( I usually do that after trying everything else first). It is definitely a stud so forget the easy out. GM says to remove the wheel well and the trunk liner. Looking at my car, I would say definitely the wheel liner has to come out, probably not the trunk liner unless you are replacing the coax too. I would consider TX08's method. It looks like the easiest fix if you have enough of the stud left.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
245 Posts
I assume the threaded part was screwed in with very little torque and you have enough room to do this . . . . . get a welding machine and do a bad job, get the electrode stuck to the broken threaded part, then use the electrode to rotate the part out.

Do you actually need the antenna ? If not just glue the piece back in place.
DO NOT do this! There is a really good chance of running the welder current through the radio and what not. This repair would get really expensive.

Welcome to the joys of coupe ownership! FYI, that's also how you change the tail light bulbs, so get used to it!

FWIW, while you are doing that, you might want to replace the mast with a shorter Opel version. I did that with minimal loss of reception and it looks more in keeping with the lines of the car (to my eye, anyway). It is 16"
X2 really like my shorty! Looks better, and less noise with the top down.:thumbs:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
471 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Robssol really like my shorty! Looks better, and less noise with the top down.

Was putting on a shorty when I broke the antenna... :thumbs:

TX08manualGXP I forgot about this. after mine twisted off, I unscrewed "the washer" and determined the stud was not threaded into the base so that's why I trimmed the top of the base, placed a skinny washer over it and the antenna now acts as the nut. I also had to cut the tapered end of the new antenna so the threads started flush with the end. I also used blue loctite since I only got about 4 turns before it was flush.

Gonna give this a try on a warmer day. Going down to 18 below (wind chill) tomorrow night (-2 degrees/windy). :cool:
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top