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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a stock base Coupe that will soon get an LS3-6L80E transplant. I wanted to go to 275x40x18 tires on light wheels. Since the wheel pattern and offset is unique and the good wheels are really expensive, I am trying to fit the C5 Corvette magnesium wheels @ 16-17 lbs. each to the car. They are 18x9.5 +65 and 17x8.5 +60. The tires are 275/40/18 and 254/45/17.



The adapter is 1" thick. Notice that the original studs are 1.25" long. Make sure that the adapter touches the disks before tightening nuts. You may have to wire brush the hubs to get a good fit.



The wheels have extra clearance holes for the studs.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The rear tires are 1" past the fender, approximately 1.5 inches wider than the originals. The outside edge of the original tire at regular ride height is 1/2 inch in from the fender, where the white paint ends and the inner fender starts.
The oil spot is from a blown seal from my just rebuilt Torin 1.5T "Big Red" aluminum "race" jack. Don't ever buy one. No Warranty. No Service.



The edge of the tread is about 1 1/8" from the inner fender. Does anyone have experience with this clearance? Will the tire tuck in when lowered? How much camber will I need?
Here is what it looks like from the rear. The front fits great.

 

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Not to be rude, but I've never liked the Mexi-flush look on any car....the tops should be inside the fender....unless you plan on stretching the fenders out to meet the tire. Just my 2cents
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Front view: Front 17x8.5, Rear 18x9.5



Front view 18x9.5. Rear is back to stock. The front offset is about the same inch as the rear. Will the front fit when lowered? Help Please.

 

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Nice

Put some old C4 wheels on the car for a while using the required hub bolt pattern adapters.



Didn't really rag on it when I had them on as was paranoid about the altered axle to wheel dynamics.



And yes, due to the adapters and the much wider tires they did stick out a bit. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
One more thing. The original wheel almost touches the rear upper A arm at full drop. I expect that is why most go to 19" or 20" wheels. The 18x9.5 C5 wheels are the same, there is less than .050" clearance. We would have to add limit straps or equivalent to the rear to go wider inside the wheel well. There is clearance, but would require custom offset wheels. I might have to drop the car, add limit straps, and re-drill the hubs to Chevy pattern.....
Opinions/Assistance please.
 

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My buddy Scott did the first skystice back in the day and it wasn't a cheap thing to do
 

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IBD, you talkin about Kepple? I used to chill with him couple years ago
 

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One more thing. The original wheel almost touches the rear upper A arm at full drop. I expect that is why most go to 19" or 20" wheels. The 18x9.5 C5 wheels are the same, there is less than .050" clearance. We would have to add limit straps or equivalent to the rear to go wider inside the wheel well. There is clearance, but would require custom offset wheels. I might have to drop the car, add limit straps, and re-drill the hubs to Chevy pattern.....
Opinions/Assistance please.
I don't think the hub flange is big enough for 120.7 bolt pattern. It is too close to the edge imo. The biggest I would drill is 114.3. I bought vette wagon wheels a while back and was going to re-drill the hubs, but there is very little material left so I aborted and made benches out the the wheels instead. The other thing is I think the tire diameter would need to come down to fit without chopping the car up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
There are 5 bolts holding the wheel to the hub and they are relatively large diameter. Right behind them, holding the hub to the spindle, there are three smaller bolts. They are better steel but they are only three in a smaller pattern. I think they would break first, right after the wheel bearing comes apart. Don't forget to torque them all.
 
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