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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2008 Solstice Base ( with some sweet options) Convertible.

I bought it used. Both of my fenders have suffered the dreaded jacking points collapse. We have the previous owner, or the used car lot "mechanic" where she sat for a year to thank for that. With that being understood, I have posted some pictures of how my hood is matching up. Am I right in my thinking that if I replace both fenders, that the hood will allign correctly? I mean it seems like if the collapsed fenders pushed "up" on the hood, that would make it "drop," not raise. Maybe it is not the hood. Maybe it is something else. If anyone can tell me what it is and a possible fix I promise to fix it and post pictures. I do not think I am explaining myself too well, but as the saying goes, a picture is worth a thousand words. :thumbs:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yep. All of those body alignments are fixable. Just takes a little time and patience. I still need to adjust one of my fenders and the trunk near the tail-light.
Now that information is worth a Lifetime Membership. I get paid Friday.


:yay:
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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That pdf is very helpful for dialing in, and you should not have to buy new body panels to correct your issues.
 

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I too got my car 2.5 years ago with bottom dents on the fenders. Early this year I took off both fenders, one to replace battery, two to fix dents. I marked all alignment locations with tape and took the fenders off. I banged the dents out myself, a bit with a ball peen hammer, mostly with a rubber mallet. Got them almost as good as new. Put them back on and alignment is now better than ever.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I too got my car 2.5 years ago with bottom dents on the fenders. Early this year I took off both fenders, one to replace battery, two to fix dents. I marked all alignment locations with tape and took the fenders off. I banged the dents out myself, a bit with a ball peen hammer, mostly with a rubber mallet. Got them almost as good as new. Put them back on and alignment is now better than ever.
I like it. :yesnod:
 

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Please have one of your favorite beverages on me and send me the bill. Keep it under five dollars and you can p.m me with your address and I'll send it out cash.
:cheers:
Thank you for the thought :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Am I close, or am I done?

That pdf is very helpful for dialing in, and you should not have to buy new body panels to correct your issues.
I tried some adjustments today. There is no doubt it is better, but I am stopping before I go too far. I want you guys to take a look. I have the front hood stops screwed in until the bottom of the bolt is about 3 inches from the bracket-much lower than the 11mm (approx 7") the pdf calls for. I also have the hood bumpers turned all the way in. I tried to loosen the bracket for the fascia, but there is so much stuff attached and it didn't seem to do much. Look at the photos. Am I good to go or what? Can ( or should) I lower the hood stops further for a tighter fit? Is it tight enough?:dunno:




 

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I'd say yes and no. I only see a little glimpse of your hood now and it looks off, hood too low vs. front fascia. The outer fender was difficult for me to move as well, so can you:

1) show a pic of the hood at the front, it should have an even gap across, be minimal, and be FLUSH with the front fascia (the front hood stops will manage this mostly).
2) What does your hood to door look like by the glass at each side if you screwed the stops in all the way, is it actually level both side?
3) The hood to fender clearance, how about a couple pics of that, because screwing all this stuff down low could put you so close at the fender that you get the hood hitting it when it shuts. And the hood should shut cleanly with a drop from about 10inches versus laying it down and then pushing it shut.

back to the hood to fascia out by the markers, ours is similar in that it tends to have a little more gap out toward the marker, or at least it did, it's pretty close to even now. one side was more than the other, and after adjusting as much as I could (it didn't want to adjust much here), I made a few small black plastic strips and unscrewed the 2 screws at the fascia a and put these in, about 2mm worth if that...the thinking here is that if you have the locating brackets tight, if you put a small spacer between bracket and fascia it would move the fascia up a little. I did this on one side and it worked decently to get both sides very close, and very nicely fitting with the lines at the front hood to fascia. Just a thought to play with this a bit more.

I did the same thing in terms of walking away a few times while working on this. I actually spent 5 days playing with the adjustments to get them as nice as I could, hood to fascia, hood to fender, hood to door, ALL front end adjustment, all rear panels are very nicely fitting.

Edit: Also, that passenger side fascia/marker, if it's sticking out a hair as viewed from the front, if you pop the hood the fascia has 2 small 7mm screws hold it to the support bracket, but also there is another 7mm going into the wheel well plastic that can be loosened so you can push that in a little.

double edit: I tried to shoot you a few pics of ours, but a black car, trying to get body panel fitment (the fitment space is all black) and it's dark in the garage despite lighting, you really can't see. Even in the light, one nice thing about a black paint job would be body panel fitment. They might be a bear to keep nice and clean looking, but body panel fitment issues are harder to see in black.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I like your idea of maybe doing some type of filler. BTW, what part of the state of Colorado are you living? I used to live in Golden.











There's no doubt it is better than it was. Here is a pic from last weekend.

 

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I'm in Erie, just a little east of Boulder, north a tad from Denver.

So when you take your fingers across the hood to door at those corners is it level?

From my limited experience the door seems to have a slight bit more gap at the top than the bottom, however, yours might have increased with the lowering at the front. Raising the front bumps for the hood tends to push the hood back a touch. The more you lower, the larger that rear hood to door top gap. And it looks like your hood to fascia gap is pretty minimal, especially compared to the fascia gaps at the sides. So try my trick for raising the fascia at the side and maybe go back up then on the hood to fascia just a little...remember this should be smooth with your fingers going over it, LEVEL. Is the last pic from last weekend BEFORE you worked on it? If yes, then my guess is you should focus some more on that side fascia, and then you will probably be wanting to back off the lowering of the front hood bumps just a little and you should be getting very close.
 

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Too funny, dummy me, I just took some more pics of the car last weekend so maybe these will help to show the lines, again it's harder to see due to the paint being black:





This one doesn't show much for the front, but I like it :cool:, just click the site warning thingy to view the larger pics:

 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah. The last picture is from last weekend when I let the wife near my car. :lol:

I would guess it's starting to get cold where you are. I remember one September when Golden and the Interstate were shut down for three days due to an overnight blizzard. :willy:

OK. I get it now; it is a couple day project. :agree:

I was really careful about checking gaps and stuff when I was closing and opening the hood after adjustments, What seemed to make the most difference in fascia to hood fit was dropping the hood stops up front after screwing the hood/fender stops all the way in. I dropped the front stops quite a bit. I would estimate 20 turns. :cuss:

I just could not get the fascia to move at all. I loosened the four bolts on each bracket, but no go. It did feel like the fascia bracket attached to the middle screw did move, but eveything else stayed where it was. Like I said, it seems like a lot of stuff is attached to that fascia bracket and the PDF says to just loosen the bolts and it will move. Not in this lifetime. :nono:

I think the fascia is up as far as it will go. The hood seems to close better now too, but I have not done your ten inch test, and I'll have to check the "smooth" fit between hood and fascia. :thumbs:

Before the adjustments I could see scrapes on the U brackets on the hood that meet the aluminum pins on the frame right outside of the windshield. Those pins are not adjustable, right? I wonder how they hold up over time? They just look like they might bend or break if the hood is not closing correctly.

For sure I am going to try your filler idea, but I'm a bit confused. You have explained it very well, but can you shoot a cell phone picture or something? :dunno:
 

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Yeah. The last picture is from last weekend when I let the wife near my car. :lol:

I would guess it's starting to get cold where you are. I remember one September when Golden and the Interstate were shut down for three days due to an overnight blizzard. :willy:

OK. I get it now; it is a couple day project. :agree:

I was really careful about checking gaps and stuff when I was closing and opening the hood after adjustments, What seemed to make the most difference in fascia to hood fit was dropping the hood stops up front after screwing the hood/fender stops all the way in. I dropped the front stops quite a bit. I would estimate 20 turns. :cuss:

I just could not get the fascia to move at all. I loosened the four bolts on each bracket, but no go. It did feel like the fascia bracket attached to the middle screw did move, but eveything else stayed where it was. Like I said, it seems like a lot of stuff is attached to that fascia bracket and the PDF says to just loosen the bolts and it will move. Not in this lifetime. :nono:

I think the fascia is up as far as it will go. The hood seems to close better now too, but I have not done your ten inch test, and I'll have to check the "smooth" fit between hood and fascia. :thumbs:

Before the adjustments I could see scrapes on the U brackets on the hood that meet the aluminum pins on the frame right outside of the windshield. Those pins are not adjustable, right? I wonder how they hold up over time? They just look like they might bend or break if the hood is not closing correctly.

For sure I am going to try your filler idea, but I'm a bit confused. You have explained it very well, but can you shoot a cell phone picture or something? :dunno:
give me a few minutes and I'll see what I can get. Keep in mind I did this on passenger side only, I had an issue where I felt the drivers side was fine, passenger was too much gap, so I did just the one side and it helped, hopefully you can see in the pics. Same issue though, after loosening all the bracket bolts and really pushing/pulling I did not get much change, thus my backyard remedy. be back shortly....
 

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here you go:







so just think about this a sec....if your brackets are tight and won't move, and you put a little plastic spacer between the bracket (underneath) and fascia, what happens? Fascia must move up some. just don't get carried away.
 

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Downloaded the pdf for the body adjustments,nice.Got a question though,I did not see much on the right fender ,my fender is out of adjustment,before I got the car the dealer put in a battery and it has a gap between the top of the fender and the hood horizontally.I am sure I need to loosen the bolts between the door and the fender ,just wondering if there is a procedure for this reasonably sure I have seen it before,just don't seem to find it. .Thanks.
 
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