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Discussion Starter #1
2008 GXP stopped in the middle of traffic. Wont start. has codes P0343 and P0357.

I've looked at other posts - no clear answer. I already replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor and cleared the codes.

After cranking for a bit, still no starting and same codes show up.

any ideas?

Does anyone know where I can find what the voltages expected on the 3 CPS wires are so I can probe those?

Thanks,

Michael
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I measured 5V going into the sensor, it seems to be working ok. this rules out wiring at least the 5V feed. I cleared the pending faults again, cranked again and faults came back.

one more tid bit that may help (or not) - when cranking on the car, putting the key into the start position starts the vehicle cranking, and when releasing the key to just the 'on' position, the starter continues to crank for 10-15 sec then stops. this is very consistent. Car remains in the on position. but keeps cranking and stops cranking after releasing the key 10-15 sec later.

any experience with this type of problem or any other ideas?


where can i find a wiring diagram of this circuit so that i can probe in the ecu instead of the engine side? I'd like to verify that the input from the CPS is moving when the car is cranking Hard to get to that part on the engine side. ...


thanks,
Michael
 

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The extended cranking is normal. Once you engage the starter it will crank for that time unless you switch to off, or the engine starts.

You should measure 5V at both the reference voltage terminal and the signal terminal with the sensor unplugged and the ignition on.
If you do not have 5V at the signal wire you either have a bad wire or a bad ECM.

The signal is a pulsed 5V output that varies in frequency with engine speed and the pattern on the reluctor wheel.

I did not find P0357 in my service manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
so without knowing which wire is which, 2 of three should be 5V ??

and the other - should it be tied to ground thru the ECU ? I can ohm the three and see which one that is.
 

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The easiest thing to do is to check each to ground with the ignition on. Two should be at 5V and the third at 0V.

If you look at the face of the harness connector with the locking tab at the top, from left to right:

C: Signal
B: Low Reference
A: 5-V Reference
 

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P0357 Ignition Coil G Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
 

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or crankshaft position sensor,if it made no noises when it died it may be erectickel,as in sensor not triggering, cam sensore it should still run, but crank sensor I doubt it will run.,now if it made noises when it died...then possiably chain issue. I put a china cam position sensor on mine and it threw about 4 codes,I put the oe back on and back to the orignal code,witch was the excam accuator.changed it and all is good and better power& a little more smile.
 

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P0357 Ignition Coil G Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
Is that from Solstice service documentation or from Google?
It does not appear to be in the manual, so there is no diagnostic information about it.

P0367 is the Exhaust CMP Sensor though .......
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Compression check revealed interesting results

cylinder 1 and 3 are fine ( PSI 110) but drop a little during cranking
cylinder 2 & 4 are dead - no compression

I'd expect about 110-120PSI on all cylinders, right? ?

does this variable cam timing thing affect this?

what next?

Thanks
 

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How many miles on your motor?
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
90K approx..

Also, codes were P0343 and P0367.

I had also checked spark on #1 - its there, did not check the others. Just strange that #2 & #4 cylinders haevb no pressure & 1 & 3 appear ok.

any new ideas here? Tying to DIY this before taking to a $hop.. I'm very competent at old Small block Chevy mechanical stuff, not that familiar with the modern ECM engines.


thanks

Michael
 

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P0367 is the exhaust equivalent of P0343, so the electrical testing is the same.

The VVT system changes the timing of the valve operation, and not the actual operation, so I think you should still get compression in all four cylinders.

My next steps would be to check the circuits for voltage (Posts 6&8) and then do a cylinder leak-down test to see why there is no compression on 2 and 4.
 

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IT'S GONNA NEED A MOTOR.....or cylinder head& timing chains...probably cheeper to put a motor in it and probably better too. no compresion is, holes in pistons,valves bent, valves hung open..possiably timing chains broken, jumped timing,it's a mess. I would put a compleate engine in it.rather than trying to fix it unless you have a wadd of$$$ and plenty of tyme.( if it were mine I would then after driving with new motor I would tear appart the old motor and play with it....good luck, dont be skeered of used motor,just try to get a fairly low millage unit.
 
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