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Discussion Starter #1
06 NA with 70,000 miles
Replaced the water pump and all went well
But I forgot to plug the coolant level sensor back in.
then I started the car the check engine light came on and the dic said low coolant...

plugged it back in and dic error went away but check engine light on.

Plugged in multiple code readers and I get can’t connect to ECU....

Any ideas?
Rob
 

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Does the reader power-up? If it does not, check for a blown "Diagnostic" (I think) fuse in the Underhood Fuse Block.
 

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If you don't have a blown fuse try removing the positive battery cable for a couple of minutes then reconnect it had a GM tech tell me to do this .
 

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Also, it takes several run cycles to clear a stored code that turns the light on.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Wow thanks for the reply guys.
I didn’t get any notification that anyone replied.
The code reader does power up.
But it says no communication with ECU
I cycled the key multiple times.
I disconnected the battery over night. No luck.
My wife has been using the car almost daily and the check engine light is still on.
Also it seems to be down on power.

I was thinking that the cam chains maybe stretched enough to trip the light on.
maybe the light is on because when I changed the water pump the chain tension may have changed.

If I do need a new ECU would it need to go to GM to be re flashed to match the new car?

Rob
 

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Did you check the fuse as John recommended above? I don't think you need a new ECU - I would think you'd have more problems than that.
 

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Has your scanner worked with your car in the past? When I purchased my Solstice my old scanner wouldn't work with it and I had to purchase a new one
 

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The cam chain will not typically set a code or turn on the check engine light. It will make a wirring noise that is noticeable when the engine is running. If you don't hear the chain when the car is running it is probably fine. When the chain looses tension it makes noise and eats the timing gears. Its pretty obvious.

If you pull the power supply for a short period, a couple of minutes, it should clear the codes. If you pull the power for a longer period, half an hour or more as an example, it forces a "cold start" and the non-persistent data stored is erased. Generally to clear a code pull the negative battery terminal for 30 seconds like you are resetting your modem at home.

If you cant read the code then you have a different issue. Look for loose connections and examine the fuses.
 

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Did you check the fuse as John recommended above? I don't think you need a new ECU - I would think you'd have more problems than that.
Most code readers are powered through the DLC, so a blown fuse will keep them from powering on. If the reader is self-powered the fuse doesn't matter because that is all it is needed for.

I fully agree that needing a new ECM is unlikely if this is the only problem.

Has your scanner worked with your car in the past? When I purchased my Solstice my old scanner wouldn't work with it and I had to purchase a new one
Good question, this may be the key. The Kappa was one of the first CAN bus cars, and older readers can't communicate with it, but everything since has been CAN compatible.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Did you check the fuse as John recommended above? I don't think you need a new ECU - I would think you'd have more problems than that.
I didn’t check the fuse. I figured since it did power up the scanner that wasn’t it.
But I will check it today..
 

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Has your scanner worked with your car in the past? When I purchased my Solstice my old scanner wouldn't work with it and I had to purchase a new one
never had a cel before. So I never plugged the code reader in.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The cam chain will not typically set a code or turn on the check engine light. It will make a wirring noise that is noticeable when the engine is running. If you don't hear the chain when the car is running it is probably fine. When the chain looses tension it makes noise and eats the timing gears. Its pretty obvious.

If you pull the power supply for a short period, a couple of minutes, it should clear the codes. If you pull the power for a longer period, half an hour or more as an example, it forces a "cold start" and the non-persistent data stored is erased. Generally to clear a code pull the negative battery terminal for 30 seconds like you are resetting your modem at home.

If you cant read the code then you have a different issue. Look for loose connections and examine the fuses.
I mentioned the cam chain because I noticed how loose it was when I was installing The sprocket holder for the water pump replacement.
I know the chain will make noise if it is over tight.
But mine was loose when I was picking around after pulling the pump. I was curious to see how much tension there was on the holder.
I disconnected the battery overnight.But the light came on first start.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Most code readers are powered through the DLC, so a blown fuse will keep them from powering on. If the reader is self-powered the fuse doesn't matter because that is all it is needed for.

I fully agree that needing a new ECM is unlikely if this is the only problem.



Good question, this may be the key. The Kappa was one of the first CAN bus cars, and older readers can't communicate with it, but everything since has been CAN compatible.
I was thinking the same. I even brought the code reader home from work and it also said no communication this ECU..
I bet if I bring it to the dealer they will want to replace the ECU.
And I bet that will be expensive!!!
 

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Swapping out an ECU is a simple process if that's the direction you want to go ,easy to get at plug and play ,Ebay has a ton for sale at reasonable prices .I picked up a spare when I was doing my turbo conversion gave them my basic info vin # ,type of trans etc.and was on my way the only thing I needed from the dealer was a crank sensor relearn 75 bucks maybe now they have that figured out so you don't have to deal with a dealer .
 

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To add to my above post went through my paperwork and the guy I bought my ECM through was spareecm he is on Ebay I paid $100.00 and it was programmed to my car .He has a 100% feedback score and offers a guarantee .
 

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To add to my above post went through my paperwork and the guy I bought my ECM through was spareecm he is on Ebay I paid $100.00 and it was programmed to my car .He has a 100% feedback score and offers a guarantee .
Thanks I will check it out.

Rob
 
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