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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okie dokie. So I drive a 2008 N/A Solstice with approx 14,000 miles. I've noticed that my clutch engagement has suddenly got higher, and that the clutch movement itself has actually gotten lighter. I dont really like how numb it's gotten. I guess it could be fine and just showing age, but I find it odd that this is going on this early on. I know nothing about the previous owners driving ability. I have noticed that the brake fluid in the reservoir is BROWN. Perhaps I need to flush it and change it? If so could someone link me to a how to thread so I can do it myself? Any information would be splendid. Thanks for your time guys/gals.
 

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The brake and clutch share the same reservoir. There's no easy way to bleed the clutch slave (from what I've been told), so your only easy choice is to flush the brakes, use the clutch a bunch, then flush the brakes again.

Nothing special about flushing the brakes. Just the same procedure as 90% of the cars out there... http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f11/brake-fluid-flush-power-bleeder-72533/
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The brake and clutch share the same reservoir. There's no easy way to bleed the clutch slave (from what I've been told), so your only easy choice is to flush the brakes, use the clutch a bunch, then flush the brakes again.

Nothing special about flushing the brakes. Just the same procedure as 90% of the cars out there... http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f11/brake-fluid-flush-power-bleeder-72533/
Thanks for that tidbit! Do you think this could be the source of my issue? or not really.
 

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Thanks for that tidbit! Do you think this could be the source of my issue? or not really.
Not sure, really. It's possible, and sounds like you need to flush anyway, so give it a try. Also, you could have air in the system, that flushing might remove.

UPDATE: This is what the the manual has for the clutch bleed procedure:
Tools Required
  • J 35555 Metal Mity Vac
  • J 43485 Power Steering Bleeder Adapter.
1. Verify that all the hydraulic lines are dry, secure and correctly routed.
2. Clean dirt and grease from the brake reservoir cap in order to ensure that no foreign substances enter the system.
3. Remove the brake reservoir cap.
4. Fill the entire brake reservoir to the MAX level using DOT 3 hydraulic brake fluid.

IMPORTANT: Check the clutch hose assembly for the co rrect routing. The clutch hose assembly (2) should be routed above therubber boot for the steering column (3) and above the grommet for the hood release cables (4). If the clutch hose assembly is not routed correctly, the clutch hydraulic system will be very difficult or impossible to bleed. If the clutch hose assembly is not routed correctly, change the clutch hose assembly routing before bleeding the clutch hydraulic system.

IMPORTANT: Maintain the fluid in the brake reservoir at the MAX level with DOT 3 hydraulic brake fluid. The MAX level marker can be found on the side of the brake reservoir that facesthe engine, If the fluid in the brake reservoir is not at the MAX level, the portion of the brake reservoir that is connected to the clutch hydraulic system may not contain fluid. The portion of the brake reservoir that is connected tothe clutch hydraulic system is located in the left, rear corner of the brake reservoir.

IMPORTANT: DOT 3 hydraulic brake fluid will deteriorate the rubber on the J 44894-A, use a clean shop towel to wipe away all fluid after each use. See Special Tools.​

5. Install the J 43485 and the J 35555 to the reservoir. See Special Tools.
6. Hold the J 43485 into position while applying 51-68 kPa (15-20 hg) of vacuum. See Special Tools.
7. Remove the adapter and refill the brake reservoirto the MAX level.
8. Depress the clutch pedal slowly to the full depressed position.
9. Let the clutch pedal return to the up stop position and hold for 5 seconds.
10. Repeat steps 4-9 until all air is removed from the clutch system.
11. Replace the cap on the brake reservoir.
12. Fully apply the PARK brake.
13. Place the transmission into the neutral position, depress the clutch pedal, and start the engine.
14. Pump the clutch pedal until firm.
15. Pump the brake pedal until firm.
16. If needed, add additional DOT 3 hydraulic brake fluid to fill the brake reservoir to the MAX level.
17. Road test the vehicle to ensure proper operation.
 

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One of the features of a hydraulic clutch is it does not need adjustment as it wears. The fact that yours is apparently showing signs of change suggests one of two things. Either the clutch has been seriously abused and is actually nearing end of life, or the hydraulic system itself is showing signs of failure. Is the level of the fluid going down? Which might be indicative of a leak. I doubt that a change in color would have a big impact, unless it is a result of a lot of air or water being absorbed which can change the compressive characteristics of the fluid and result in a change in feel.

Good luck. :thumbs:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Not sure, really. It's possible, and sounds like you need to flush anyway, so give it a try. Also, you could have air in the system, that flushing might remove.

UPDATE: This is what the the manual has for the clutch bleed procedure:
thank you for that. I dont have a manual with mine so this is helpful!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
One of the features of a hydraulic clutch is it does not need adjustment as it wears. The fact that yours is apparently showing signs of change suggests one of two things. Either the clutch has been seriously abused and is actually nearing end of life, or the hydraulic system itself is showing signs of failure. Is the level of the fluid going down? Which might be indicative of a leak. I doubt that a change in color would have a big impact, unless it is a result of a lot of air or water being absorbed which can change the compressive characteristics of the fluid and result in a change in feel.

Good luck. :thumbs:
The fluid level was below the fill line when I chacked. My dad recommended I top it off with the proper fluid which I did. I'll keep an eye on it and see if it drops again. Yeah the feel is the biggest change I notice. I mean the clutch isnt slipping or anything.
 

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If the fluid got low, that could've introduced air into the clutch system (clutch exit tube is higher than the brake exit).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If the fluid got low, that could've introduced air into the clutch system (clutch exit tube is higher than the brake exit).
yeah that sounds like a possibility. question is though...how difficult is it to get it out? Is it harmful? Or just nothing more than a reason why it would feel "different."
 

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From reading a post by DDM Dave, the only way to bleed the clutch is to cycle it . . a LOT till the air comes out.
OR, execute the steps I posted above :)

But without the tools, then, yes, pump the clutch, like I said before that :D
 
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