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Discussion Starter #1
Hello!

I burnt the clutch on my solstice, yup all my fault. Its driven hard and brake boosting and power sliding everywhere killed it, the extra power from the tune didn't help either.. I haven't driven it in a while, its my only car but I work overseas so I spend weeks without needing it at a time. Also makes it impossible for me to do the transmission job myself. Regardless this car is a completely different monster in complicated than the cars I have built and worked on before.

Does anybody know how much a gm dealer would charge to drop a clutch in there, or a shop that visits this place in the New England area can give me a quote? I will be buying a clutch and flywheel when I get back most likely from a vendor here. I am going to push up the power some more, I am chasing 400 torque so I have to do some research on what clutch will hold the torque.

Any info appreciated,
I know someone that has a shop but he dislikes working on US cars and I know for a fact he has never worked on a rwd sport car layout before, He is a big in the FWD drag racing and those are the cars he builds. Worse case scenario I can leave it at his shop.
 

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The normal price at a dealer to replace the clutch and pressure plate is $1300

If you are going to high power and have already fried the stock clutch talk with DDM and Werks about after market setups.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That is actually not that bad, as long as they dont destroy my one good fender in the process. My driver side one didn't survive the differential recall
 

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That is actually not that bad, as long as they dont destroy my one good fender in the process. My driver side one didn't survive the differential recall
There are plenty of fenders available. I have an extra set for example
 

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DDM and Werks both sell Spec clutches but they have different opinions on which one works best, I have a Spec Stage 2 with the aluminum Spec flywheel, that is about $1300 for the parts. The Stage 2 is only slightly stiffer than stock and will handle over 400 lb/ft of torque easily, I'm in the 380 range, lighter flywheel make a a BIG difference. Don't forget to get the spacer.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I am thinking of ordering the clutch on tuesday and doing it over the weekend. I may skip the flywheel altogether and resurface mine. Also is there a write up somewhere on the transmission removal I would like to see the process.
 

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If possible, try and go with a twin disk clutch. My bf has a Spec Stage 3+ in his Solstice, and while it works fine now that it is installed, we had a hell of a time with the installation. Spec was not very helpful either. Recently they sent the wrong pressure plate to a friend of mine and refuse to admit their mistake. Just haven't had very good experience with them. With that being said, no matter what clutch you go with, the install is a pain. The whole rear end of the car needs to be dropped to get the tranny back on. I think a shop could do it for $700-$800 if you shopped around, but that is likely if they haven't relized the PITA they are getting themselves into, lol. If you live near enough to a kappa shop such as DDM or Werks I would very highly recommend letting them do it as they have the process down pat and can catch if there is anything not right with the clutch or flywheel before install. Best of luck with your swap and be sure to let us know how it goes!
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
What are the things that HAVE to be replaced, I know about the flywheel bolts but what about the Slave cylinder. The thing just hit 40k can the same slave stay or does it have to be replaced upon removal of the transmission.

Twin Disc would be overkill, I had 400 horse on a 2200lbs car with a single. For a street vehicle, sprung single will suffice. My issue is I cant spend more than 1800 and needs to be in less than 16 hours.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
also what is meant by "spacer" On any of the clutches I have done before I never had to do anything other than bolting on the clutch etc. Could someone elaborate please?

Also I been looking for other brand clutches other than spec for comparisons and I haven't had luck. I see some exedy ones but exedy is copied like nothing else and I don't think they make anything for the gxp anyways.
 

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If you do go with Spec most definitely use the Spec provided spacer AND buy the Werks spacer. Use both! You will thank me later. And yes, go ahead and replace the slave while you are in there
 

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What part of the new England area? I know of a couple good shops in MA

Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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At flaxenfilly23, interesting comment on spec PR, And I agree, they also sent me a wrong piece for my clutch replacement (for a different vehicle) and they were not helpful at all, but my vendor stepped up at least, but I have to say I am happy with the clutch performance.
At Cev93, I would agree with Rob and go aftermarket, and for the way it sounds you drive in my opinion I would go with a stage 3 or 3+. Also just my opinion I would go with a new flywheel, you just don't know what shape your OEM flywheel is in, and if it's not bad you can still get it machined for a backup, for your next swap, or sell it, or whatever.Especially if you are going to do it yourself(which is what I would do), having new parts there will cut down on your re-install time. anyway, let us know what you do, and of course good luck!

Bert
 

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If you do go with Spec most definitely use the Spec provided spacer AND buy the Werks spacer. Use both! You will thank me later. And yes, go ahead and replace the slave while you are in there
wat he said ! wish i'd have had those instructions !
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Um this spacer thing is making me nervous, can someone point me to something showing where it goes? I won't be doing the work I will just be an extra set of hands but I don't want to go in there twice. Also spec is beginning to sound like they aren't too helpful.

I am around Boston and Yes I will get a slave cylinder if its highly recommended.
 

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The spacers are easy to install. Anybody at all experienced with clutches should know where they go. If they have any trouble just have them call me and I'll explain it. I'll PM you my number. Like I said though, do yourself a favor and buy the Werks one as well. And yes buy a slave. They are not that expensive and will possible save you from dropping that tranny shortly (or even right after) you put it back on.
 

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Hello!

I burnt the clutch on my solstice, yup all my fault. Its driven hard and brake boosting and power sliding everywhere killed it, the extra power from the tune didn't help either..
Actually, the extra power had nothing to do with it. The clutch wears only when you shift. Once it is engaged, there is zero lining wear, assuming that the linings aren't glazed and that you don't have enough power to make it slip when fully clamped (and that takes a LOT of power - more than you can get from a tune). What killed the clutch was abuse, as you stated. Given that you slip your clutch as part of your driving style, I'll second the other guys that have suggested that you obtain a replacement that has more durable linings on the disc. There is no question that you will ruin the next clutch, too, but if you choose the right replacement it should last longer.

Have you considered an automatic? Seriously, it might save you many thousands of bucks over the time you'll own your car.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
I was drifting the thing on a abuse your car weekend, I was slipping the clutch to break the rear end lose among other things. Break boosting might not damage the clutch but I sure did a lot of it on the way there.

Certain things are Impossible or harder with automatics, I takes money to play and I am willing to pay.

I looked everywhere for a different brand clutch but no luck. I will order the flywheel and clutch and the two spacers.
 

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Anyone who knows how to drive a stick, can learn how to make a clutch last. My first clutch lasted me 2 weeks. My neighbor took me out and taught me how drive on my Fiero. That clutch was still going strong when I sold it. My Ranger, no issue. My Mustang had 150k on the clutch and had no issue. It's all about how you start, shift and sit at a light. If its a longer light, ALWAYS put the car in neutral and let the clutch out in neutral until just before you need to move. DON'T EVER rock the car at a light!!! As far as starting....try to get off the clutch as quickly as you can. Don't "feather" it till you hit 4000rpm! The clutch won't last. I don't know how many times I've almost stalled the car because I've let the clutch all the way out too quickly. Get your foot off of it as quickly as possible. When shifting (and this is the part that sucks!) don't "feather" it. Just let it out and get back on it. And get that foot off of it as quickly as possible. I know in out GXP cars that's hard to do for 1st and 2nd because redline comes so quick, but normal driving you should be able to do this with no problme. It takes some practice to get smooth, but I gaurantee your clutch will last longer then 100k!

If you got 40k out of this one, the next one (following my advice) should get you at least 60K. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
I bought the car with 36k, in my lifetime I have owned 5 cars and all but one has been an manual. I replaced a clutch once on my Honda when I got the engine back from the machine shop. Car came with 90whp and I was planning over 400 hundred so I had to upgrade.

My solstice clutch didn't survive the race weekend, its my first rwd and I was toying with it. Trust me the clutch didn't wear because of my everyday driving.
 

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I swapped my clutch at 60 K it was fine the flywheel was fine the pressure plate was shot. Talk to Dave at Werks before you commit, he steered me away from the Stage 3 and I do drift my car. The Stage 2 is plenty of clutch, if you commute in traffic at all it's a better choice and knocking 15 lbs of the flywheel is worth the money, makes a HUGE difference especially if you are doing clutch kicks.
 
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