Pontiac Solstice Forum banner

Clutch Replacement

35218 Views 45 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  Cev93
Hello!

I burnt the clutch on my solstice, yup all my fault. Its driven hard and brake boosting and power sliding everywhere killed it, the extra power from the tune didn't help either.. I haven't driven it in a while, its my only car but I work overseas so I spend weeks without needing it at a time. Also makes it impossible for me to do the transmission job myself. Regardless this car is a completely different monster in complicated than the cars I have built and worked on before.

Does anybody know how much a gm dealer would charge to drop a clutch in there, or a shop that visits this place in the New England area can give me a quote? I will be buying a clutch and flywheel when I get back most likely from a vendor here. I am going to push up the power some more, I am chasing 400 torque so I have to do some research on what clutch will hold the torque.

Any info appreciated,
I know someone that has a shop but he dislikes working on US cars and I know for a fact he has never worked on a rwd sport car layout before, He is a big in the FWD drag racing and those are the cars he builds. Worse case scenario I can leave it at his shop.
21 - 40 of 46 Posts
Yup, I was looking at the stage 1 or 2
Does a 2.4 clutch fit the 2 liter?
NO :)

The slave cylinder and clutch are engine specific. In fact, if you look over the threads here on Spec clutch replacements, most of the worst (multi-removal) nightmares were due to the wrong parts.

edit: That said, I'm not sure how much different they are at the fundamental level.
I was worried about the 2.4 Spec 3+ being unsprung on my DD but the pressure plate does really make the weight and engagement easier. It's still pretty instantaneous and the break-in period isn't fun but with the supplied spacer my engagement is about stock (if not higher). I was also wary of needing that much clutch for 300-350lbft but it looks to be a necessity for our all-in-one slave cly/T-O bearing.
NO :)

The slave cylinder and clutch are very specific. In fact, if you look over the threads here on SPEC clutch replacements, most of the worst (multi-removal) nightmares were due to the wrong parts.
But the 2.4 and 2.0 spec clutches have the same part number?
Edit. I found some threads on attempting to fit the exedy clutch and failing. I will email ddm, my issue is that I cannot by any means not have this car back to me in two days. I am working stateside for now and I am using it to make money.

So getting wrong parts from spec will be a disaster, If ddm just puts in an order through spec I may look elsewhere.
Hmm, I haven't been on the site in a while but for mine (2.4 3+) the 2.0 part number (what was sent first) was sc403f, the 2.4 I needed was SC443F
So you received the wrong part too
Here we go

ST2-HDSS // Advanced Clutch Technology

:)

http://www.advancedclutch.com/st2-hdg4

These come with the flywheel and act is one of the best in the market.
So getting wrong parts from spec will be a disaster, If ddm just puts in an order through spec I may look elsewhere.
Yes, they order through Spec, BUT a huge advantage to ordering through them is they know EXACTLY what everything should look like and have others on hand to compare it to. They will know right away if you don't have the right parts. A non-kappa clutch installer will likely have no idea until you can't get the tranny mounted back up or the clutch bled. I have had GREAT experiences with DDM every time I have ever needed anything. They will make up in customer service what Spec lacks, lol
^I agree with that completely.

All the shops I've dealt with work through a Spec (or whomever) distributor but the advantage of DDM and Werks is that they can give you proper recommendations for your desired outcome across all vendors and options.

So you received the wrong part too
Yeah but with that it's printed right on the package so it was easy to ID. I picked up most everything on ebay (new stock of slaves, hydraulic lines, etc for a fraction of retail) and you have no idea how many times I rechecked part numbers and whatnot after reading those threads.
Hey man, I'm flaxenfillys boyfriend. We had hell with my clutch install. We were on our back for a week trying to figure out why the hell the trans wouldn't seat! Like everyone has said so far spec is NO HELP, if you ask them any questions you will get a very vague answer leaving you scratching your head. However with that being said, my 3+ is very drivable and can handle whatever I throw at it without issue. Spec's products are solid but the company needs to get their prioritys in order.
Hey man, I'm flaxenfillys boyfriend. We had hell with my clutch install. We were on our back for a week trying to figure out why the hell the trans wouldn't seat! Like everyone has said so far spec is NO HELP, if you ask them any questions you will get a very vague answer leaving you scratching your head. However with that being said, my 3+ is very drivable and can handle whatever I throw at it without issue. Spec's products are solid but the company needs to get their prioritys in order.
Out of curiosity why wouldn't your transmission sit?

I am sure werks and ddm have top notch service, but I will order the ACT. Its the same price and lets hope they are competent enough to send the right parts.

ST2-HDG4 // Advanced Clutch Technology

just have to research which one
Cool deal and good luck. I can't wait to hear your write-up after break-in. I don't know of anyone running an ACT clutch on the LNF and alternatives are definitely welcome.

tbh the wrong parts 'nightmare' I was referring to was the wrong slave cylinder (another was a broken hydraulic hose during install). They look similar but are different heights so everything went back together but the clutch wouldn't build hydraulic pressure. In both stories, back out the whole mess came at least once (some had multiples). In my case, I just don't think I was clear enough talking about my 2006 'turbo' project. Mix-ups happen and you just check part numbers when everything arrives.
Out of curiosity why wouldn't your transmission sit?
e
There is a torque bar that runs the length of the tunnel under the car, from mid trans all the way back to the diff. We tried installing the trans without removing the tq bar and it would spline but, would get stuck about 3/8ths from seating to the block (very frustrating). The issue we were having was the tq bar pushes the trans slightly off center keeping the spline from sliding into the pilot bearing. After we dropped the tq bar the trans bolted right up.
I got a nice tax bill delivered to me so I am saving again for the clutch replacement. It will be a week or two before I begin the replacement, I will try to post it all step by step so people that would like to try this will have an idea.
It was just a lot of fun on jack stands, I hope I never have to that again. We ended up loosening the motor mounts and jacking the engine to get things lined up. I have done many clutches by myself at night in the driveway and driven to work the next day, not this one.
OK so I have a tax bill I have to pay and some other surprised med bills that I have no idea where who's ass they where pulled from. So right now I cant afford 1300 in clutch parts but I need it running well agaim. So whatever I am risking it, I ordered a factory disk, flywheel, plate and slave. I don't have an alignment tool and cant find one, I went to a dealer nearby and they told me that's a specialized tool not sold to the public, obviously bull**** and I didn't questioned it because they didn't even know anything about the solstice.

I also ordered the flywheel bolts, what else do I need? I am looking for a throw out bearing but cannot find one and not sure if these cars have them. I see the kits come with a pilot bearing, but I believe that's optional but not sure.

The attempt is happening most likely next weekend, I will do a step by step for the hell of it. I will also be checking the diff and making sure I still have all my hub bolts in there among other things.
See less See more
Slave and throw out are the same peice on our cars. This is what the part looks like.

See less See more
Ok thanks, I just took a closer look at my slave cylinder and see the bearing at the end of it. Only thing I am missing then is the alignment tool, I know other ways if doing it but I will try to get one for Saturday.
Unfortunately i started a new job and couldn't put the time aside to do this, it was done by a shop.

I have a problem and want to know if anybody here has had something similar. It will drive fine until it reaches 15psi and then a terrible noise comes from the engine bay. The sound sounds similar to when an accessory belt slips. A loud pitched wine noise, does it anytime it reaches 15 psi, even in neutral.

I am certain it is air escaping from the charge pipes and Upon closer inspection I find that my charge pipe coming from the intake manifold is crushed at the 90 degree bend. I messed around a lot with turbos and this is the first time a boost leak sounds so terrible.

Cant someone post or link me to a picture of said pipe, preferably where the pipe connects to the rubber tube that goes to the throttle body? I want to see what the factory clamp is and how far into the rubber tube it goes.
See less See more
21 - 40 of 46 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top