Pontiac Solstice Forum banner
41 - 60 of 68 Posts

·
Registered
2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP
Joined
·
5,685 Posts
lookin good!!! Checking as you go is the right thing to do Bench bleed the clutch slave before you install it to save yourself some grief. I am pretty sure I told you how to do that on the phone. If you don't remember give me a call and I will tell you how to do it again. it will save your leg later on in the install. It won't get 100% of the air out and some leg exercise will need to be done but no where near the amount needed if you don't bench bleed it.
 

·
Premium Member
2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
Joined
·
3,375 Posts
Discussion Starter · #42 ·
lookin good!!! Checking as you go is the right thing to do Bench bleed the clutch slave before you install it to save yourself some grief. I am pretty sure I told you how to do that on the phone. If you don't remember give me a call and I will tell you how to do it again. it will save your leg later on in the install. It won't get 100% of the air out and some leg exercise will need to be done but no where near the amount needed if you don't bench bleed it.
Still waiting on the freaking differential mounting bolts. USPS is dropping the ball on this one. Grrr.
I actually found a perfect rubber “foot” that I can place over the end of the clutch hydraulic line once I bench bleed so I can hopefully minimize the amount of brake fluid that will leak out once I go to mount the tranny and run the line back to the master.
Slow and steady wins the (clutch) race…
 

·
Premium Member
2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
Joined
·
3,375 Posts
Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Ok so my impatience and a rare slow day at work got the best of me.
After (at least) 4 weeks up on the stands I left work early with a buddy and we decided to tackle putting her back together.
It was 103 degrees when we started at 3:30 this afternoon.
It’s around 1 am and we just (mostly) finished.
She is back on the ground. Have some minor stuff to finish like the shifter, wheel well liner and window cowl but hoping to be able to fire her up tomorrow.
Finally!
Fingers crossed :)
(Did I mention it was hot today?)
 

·
Premium Member
2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
Joined
·
3,375 Posts
Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Woke up this morning happy to see her back on the ground. Everything hurts (in a good way).
Hoping to finish this morning and drive to work.
I dreamt or torque bars and torque wrenches last night. Hah!
Hope springs eternal!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
381 Posts
It was 103 degrees when we started at 3:30 this afternoon.
Good grief that's awful. I feel your pain, as I did the water pump on my Sky almost exactly a year ago on the hottest days Seattle has ever recorded. 109/110 that weekend. I spent the following Monday at my home office desk with my feet in a bucket of ice water...didn't have central AC then. Now we have it in the house, and I installed a mini-split in the garage. No more numb fingers or heat stroke working on the cars!

I'm super curious to hear how this works out, as I'm sending back the DDM setup I've had on the shelf for when I need it, and want to have a go-to for when it's clutch time.
 

·
Premium Member
2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
Joined
·
3,375 Posts
Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Good grief that's awful. I feel your pain, as I did the water pump on my Sky almost exactly a year ago on the hottest days Seattle has ever recorded. 109/110 that weekend. I spent the following Monday at my home office desk with my feet in a bucket of ice water...didn't have central AC then. Now we have it in the house, and I installed a mini-split in the garage. No more number fingers or heat stroke working on the cars!

I'm super curious to hear how this works out, as I'm sending back the DDM setup I've had on the shelf for when I need it, and want to have a go-to for when it's clutch time.
Ice bucket was right there with us while we worked but the ice lasted 10 minutes :)
Will keep ya posted
 

·
Premium Member
2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
Joined
·
3,375 Posts
Discussion Starter · #48 · (Edited)
I forgot to mention, there was a 10mm nut and washer on the engine side of the firewall just above the clutch master cylinder that was loose. Finger tight or less loose. I tightened that up and my clutch pedal seems to be more solid now....

Got her buttoned up this am and did some very gentle driving on the way to work.
Very early first impressions:
1) Pedal feels exactly like stock. Unfortunately because of the long delay between clutches my memory may be misleading me but it sure feels stock.
2) That chattering sound is there as I had on my last clutch. It is much quieter but still present in the exact same scenarios. (In neutral, AC on and clutch pedal up and not engaged. Pushing the clutch in or moving the shift know into the shift gate lane and towards the gear without the clutch also eliminates it.
3) Upon deceleration in 3rd gear and up, when just maintaining speed by giving a little gas and letting go there is a high speed rattle-ish sound. The DDM clutch did this as well, however again in this case it is much quieter.
4) Clutch release is much smoother than the DDM clutch and it seems obvious this is a function of the heavier (yet still much lighter than stock iron dual mass) single mass aluminum Flywheel. So far, this clutch feels really close to an OEM.

I called Clutchmaster to enquire about the above mentioned noises and here were their responses.
1) The maintaining speed / decel noises are clutch chatter and to be expected on some level with this performance clutch. As it breaks in it should reduce but the gentleman said i should not expect that it will go away fully ever.
2) He suggested the idling chatter noise is a symptom of a single mass flywheel and how it is transferring vibration to the gearbox. His suggestion was to use a heavier oil in the gear box to help with the noise.

I used Redline MT90 in the gear box on my last transmission oil change a few hundred miles ago..
Should i really go "thicker"?
If so. like what?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,224 Posts
If you go with thicker oil on the transmission won't you solve one issue and create others? For one I'm thinking shifting might become harder if you use, say, a 120 GL oil.
 

·
Premium Member
2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
Joined
·
3,375 Posts
Discussion Starter · #50 ·
If you go with thicker oil on the transmission won't you solve one issue and create others? For one I'm thinking shifting might become harder if you use, say, a 120 GL oil.
As it is "always summer" here in Los Angeles I might be an outlier case as to heavier oil. However I am not well versed enough in the subject to know if harm can be done to the gearbox by going heavier than the MT90...

As it stands, my early initial impressions are that shifting right now is actually easier than it was... But as I havent driven the car in so long, not trusting my own memory on tactile or subjective points of reference.
 

·
Premium Member
2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
Joined
·
3,375 Posts
Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Another indication that indeed your previous clutch wasn't fully disengaging...
I was reffering to the OEM Clutch, though for the very short time I had the DDM also holds true.
 

·
Premium Member
2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
Joined
·
3,375 Posts
Discussion Starter · #54 ·
If you go with thicker oil on the transmission won't you solve one issue and create others? For one I'm thinking shifting might become harder if you use, say, a 120 GL oil.
From what little i have been able to ascertain a thicker oil than the MT90 may cause premature wear to the synchros.
How ever that could be complete shiese so open to experience and feedback here.

Its not going to kill me if i cant get rid of it, now that i know what it is but still..

Maybe slightly overfill the tranny?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,648 Posts
the short version on transmission lube: the heavier the lube the less efficient the power transmission through the transmission is; that's why most newer manual transmissions use ATF of some sort as a fluid. other than that, unless there is a specific requirement for using something in the transmission, use whatever you want.

Bill
 

·
Premium Member
2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
Joined
·
3,375 Posts
Discussion Starter · #57 ·
the short version on transmission lube: the heavier the lube the less efficient the power transmission through the transmission is; that's why most newer manual transmissions use ATF of some sort as a fluid. other than that, unless there is a specific requirement for using something in the transmission, use whatever you want.

Bill
So nothing to the rumours that too heavy a lube such as "shockproof oil" could cause premature synchromesh failures?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,648 Posts
this is the biggest concern that i know of:

"When you are choosing a transmission or gear oil you might be wondering what GL-4 and GL-5 mean and what the differences are between these two classifications. Choosing the right classification is extremely important since they both have different properties and wrongful use could lead to serious damage to your vehicle.
There are four different classifications for transmission/gear oil. These different classifications define a certain level of performance in driven axles and manual gearboxes. They are mainly important for the transport sector in North America, Africa and Asia. The active classifications are:
  • GL-1
  • GL-4
  • GL-5
  • MT-1
The higher the Extreme Pressure (EP), the higher the GL category is. It is important to know that the SAE Motor Oil Viscosity Chart (J300) is different from the SAE Gear Oil Chart (J306). The viscosity has no relation with the API Gear Oil Classification and should be chosen based on the recommendations from the manufacturer based on the temperatures where you will drive.

The main difference between GL-4 and GL-5 gear oils is the amount of EP additives. Sulphur/Phosphorus containing products are used as EP-additive. This additive has the purpose to prevent the occurrence of micro-welds on the gear flanks at the local high temperatures which prevail in EP circumstances (temperatures well in excess of 800℃!) GL-5 has roughly twice the amount of EP additives compared to GL-4, which is why it is often used in high-pressure circumstances such as in a front axle and rear axle differential.

Sulphur/Phosphorus additives however have an unfavourable property: they can react aggressively towards bronze and copper. This can be disastrous for the synchromesh rings of a gearbox. Therefore it is not recommended to use GL-5 in a gearbox unless the manufacturer allows this.
To conclude:

  • GL-4 is suitable for hypoid gear service when they are under severe service but are without shock loading.
  • GL-5 is suitable for hypoid gear service under severe service and shock loads and not for use in a gearbox.

[email protected]

"

Bill

Rymax Lubricants
Login • Instagram
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCl2XYFfto39Pw4NfMmT4sTg
 

·
Premium Member
2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
Joined
·
3,375 Posts
Discussion Starter · #59 ·
this is the biggest concern that i know of:

"When you are choosing a transmission or gear oil you might be wondering what GL-4 and GL-5 mean and what the differences are between these two classifications. Choosing the right classification is extremely important since they both have different properties and wrongful use could lead to serious damage to your vehicle.
There are four different classifications for transmission/gear oil. These different classifications define a certain level of performance in driven axles and manual gearboxes. They are mainly important for the transport sector in North America, Africa and Asia. The active classifications are:
  • GL-1
  • GL-4
  • GL-5
  • MT-1
The higher the Extreme Pressure (EP), the higher the GL category is. It is important to know that the SAE Motor Oil Viscosity Chart (J300) is different from the SAE Gear Oil Chart (J306). The viscosity has no relation with the API Gear Oil Classification and should be chosen based on the recommendations from the manufacturer based on the temperatures where you will drive.

The main difference between GL-4 and GL-5 gear oils is the amount of EP additives. Sulphur/Phosphorus containing products are used as EP-additive. This additive has the purpose to prevent the occurrence of micro-welds on the gear flanks at the local high temperatures which prevail in EP circumstances (temperatures well in excess of 800℃!) GL-5 has roughly twice the amount of EP additives compared to GL-4, which is why it is often used in high-pressure circumstances such as in a front axle and rear axle differential.

Sulphur/Phosphorus additives however have an unfavourable property: they can react aggressively towards bronze and copper. This can be disastrous for the synchromesh rings of a gearbox. Therefore it is not recommended to use GL-5 in a gearbox unless the manufacturer allows this.
To conclude:

  • GL-4 is suitable for hypoid gear service when they are under severe service but are without shock loading.
  • GL-5 is suitable for hypoid gear service under severe service and shock loads and not for use in a gearbox.

[email protected]

"

Bill

Rymax Lubricants
Login • Instagram
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCl2XYFfto39Pw4NfMmT4sTg
Thanks for the in depth response.
in reading it a second time it looks like a GL5 rated gear oil is a no no for the Aisin AR5 manual transmission that are OEM in our Kappa’s then…?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,648 Posts
Thanks for the in depth response.
in reading it a second time it looks like a GL5 rated gear oil is a no no for the Aisin AR5 manual transmission that are OEM in our Kappa’s then…?
my concern has always been synchro life... some transmissions no longer use brass synchro rings, instead kevlar faced or something similar. however, there are some GL5 lubes that the mfr claims will not harm brass, but i forget which; you just have to do due diligence and contact the various manufacturers "IF" you know you have brass parts in your transmission (and i don't have a clue what the solstice trans has...)

the safest thing to use is just what GM recommends....

Bill
 
41 - 60 of 68 Posts
Top