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Subject: Convertible Top Won't Stow/Difficult to Raise/Windnoise/Waterleak (Re-Install or Replace Drive Link)

Models:
2006-2008 Pontiac Solstice
2007-2008 Saturn SKY
2007-2008 Opel GT
2007-2008 Daewoo G2X


Condition

Some customers may comment that the convertible top won't stow or it is difficult to raise all the way. They may also comment that there is a windnoise/waterleak that has developed at the rear of the passenger or drivers window.

Cause #1

This condition may be caused by a drive link socket being out of adjustment and possibly coming off the convertible top link. Note that the threads inside of the ball-socket may be damaged from the disengagement from the link.

Cause #2

The threads on the drive link may be out of specification, causing the ball-socket to disengage from the link. Ensure that the diameter of the link where the threads meet falls between 5.794 mm (0.228 in) and 5.974 mm (0.235 in) when measured with a vernier caliper.

Correction #1



Replace the ball-socket with an all-metal ball-socket and adjust the folding top link ball-socket to 4-6 mm (0.157-0.236 in) from the base/shoulder of the threads, or with no more than four threads showing on the folding top link. Install the washer on the ball stud. Tighten the ball stud nut to 12 N·m(106 lb in).

Correction #2

1. Open the folding top to gain access to the folding top link.

2. Remove the nut and ball stud from the rear seal retainer support panel.

3. Remove the folding top socket from the folding top link.

4. Adjust the folding top link ball-socket to 4-6 mm (0.157-0.236 in) from the base/shoulder of the threads, or with no more than four threads showing on the folding top link.

5. Install the ball-socket to the folding top link. Tighten to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).

6. Install the washer to the ball-socket and install the ball-socket to the rearmost position in the slot on the support panel.

7. Install the nut on the ball stud. Tighten the nut to 12 N·m (106 lb in).

GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
 

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Making sticky - this is important!
 

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Top link arm all-metal ball-socket

Does anyone know if there is a place to buy the all-metal ball-sockets and their part number?

My plastic one broke and I'd rather replace it myself if I can.
 

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Does anyone know if there is a place to buy the all-metal ball-sockets and their part number?

My plastic one broke and I'd rather replace it myself if I can.
You can probably order them from you dealer and they would know the part number too.

If your car is still under warranty I would let them replace it. :yesnod:
 

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Is this what causes my driver's side window to pinch the weatherstripping on the top about 50% of the time after raising the top? It's really annoying. I also have to pull on the fabric of the top slightly to keep it from being pinched while raising the top
 

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Is this what causes my driver's side window to pinch the weatherstripping on the top about 50% of the time after raising the top? It's really annoying. I also have to pull on the fabric of the top slightly to keep it from being pinched while raising the top
I don't believe so. There was another notice on the top about a year ago regarding the top pinching issue. I'll see if I can find it.

Be right back..... :leaving:
 

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Hey guys, the P/N for the ball links are #19169317, I ordered two yesterday because I had a problem with my top and found out it was this that was causing it. I got hosed on the price but thru GM parts it looks to be only about 8 bucks or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
johnblanchette said:
Hey guys, the P/N for the ball links are #19169317, I ordered two yesterday because I had a problem with my top and found out it was this that was causing it. I got hosed on the price but thru GM parts it looks to be only about 8 bucks or so.
Incorrect, the GM Parts suggested list price for that number is [email protected]
 

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Does anyone have experience adjusting this? I looked at my drivers side (06, very much wind noise) and there's at least 6 or 7 threads showing. I'm out of warranty of course, so I'd like to try this myself. It looks like you remove the nut on the back end of the ball joint, then feed the ball joint through and spin the connecting rod end to shorten the length of the shaft, from my interpretation of the instructions, is this correct?
 

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Alternative to plastic ends

I have found my end has broke in a very unrepairable fashion. I was hoping to find an all metal ball end joint and use a stud to replace the ball. I have found similar sized female ends but not precisely the same metric thread.

A) can anyone supply the pec on the threaded end?

B) Has anyone else eliminated the plastic junk on thiers?

Thanks and Happy Driving!
 
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