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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Coolant Fill - Couldn't get fluid out of return hose valve

Did a coolant drain and fill today, only drained the radiator but not the water pump. Followed the DDMWorks video to refill but end up not getting anything spouting from the return hose valve/nipple, and end up overfilling the system a tad bit. Started the engine and it settled down a bit, now just a tad bit higher than the cold fill mark.

Is it not necessary to do the bleed procedure if I just do a radiator drain and fill? Engine warmed up faster than usual, but settles at a lower temperature, now fluctuates between 89-93C (running vs idling/stuck in traffic) in 32C air temperature. I used to get the engine up to like 101C when stuck in traffic.
 

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Typically the 2.4L engine bleeds without an issue, we rarely have to do anything besides fill it up and watch the temp to make sure the system opens. The 2.0L engines are the ones that are much more of a pain to bleed. If it looks like you are holding temperature well while idling and driving, you should be good to go.

Hope that helps,
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So the fluctuation between 89-93C/192-201F would be considered normal? IIRC used to vary less though, but at a higher temperature (probably due to the old coolant). The old stuff looked a quite a bit darker.

I went to my car again to check (because I forgot to reset the OLS after the oil change) after the drive home and letting it cool down a bit, the level is lower, and my mechanic told me just top it back up a bit later.
 

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I flushed and filled my 2.4 after I bought it and had no issues with it either. Mine will run 185 to 190 all day long underway in the summer, peak at about 205/210 stopped in high heat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Cool (pun intended), thanks guys.

Just wanted to make sure if watching the return valve water feature was necessary, guess it's not for the 2.4L. I'll just keep an eye out on any overheating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK, so my first longer trip today, it's fluctuating way more than yesterday, between 91-99C/195-210F, and just by idling at a stoplight I had it shoot up to 102C/216F.

Only other thing I noticed after settling overnight it's a bit low now when hot. I guess a top up after it cools down back to the halfway point it should fix this?
 

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Yes, pretty typical to have to add a little coolant after a flush on the system and a couple heat cycles. Temperatures still seem pretty normal, was the A/C on during this?

The high temperature warning light comes on at 255F, I have attached a picture that shows the fan duty cycle vs. engine temp for your reference also.
 

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Good thread! I've never flushed my street Solstice (2.4) and I always see 195-216. At 216, fan comes on and cools the car back down under 200. Been like that since ~15k miles when I bought it (now at ~43k).

I only check the coolant level when cold. Not sure where it runs when hot, but cold is always right on the line.
 

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You're way overdue to flush that suka. Every 5 years for Dexcool, at least.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You're way overdue to flush that suka. Every 5 years for Dexcool, at least.
To add, my 4 year old coolant (I'm going to assume when the dealer did my water pump they used fresh coolant) was quite dark when it was drained. I'm thinking it's already starting to eat into my seals, and I don't want another water pump job...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Yes, pretty typical to have to add a little coolant after a flush on the system and a couple heat cycles. Temperatures still seem pretty normal, was the A/C on during this?

The high temperature warning light comes on at 255F, I have attached a picture that shows the fan duty cycle vs. engine temp for your reference also.
Yeah the AC was on. And when you meant hold temperature, it should be stable within a degree or two?

EDIT: Topped it up today. Didn't shoot up to 102C but it was still up to 100C with the AC off during daytime. The other thing that's rather unsettling for me is that temperatures rises MUCH faster than it used to. I can go from a cold 40C engine straight up to 90C within like 2-3 minutes. I don't recall it getting up to temperature that quickly before the change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Went out for a short chillout drive and get gas, some more findings:

- If I keep my revs around 2000RPM, temperature is stable around 89-90C
- If I stop at a light or cruise at 1200-ish RPM, it starts boiling towards 102C again.
- If I rev back to 2000RPM even when stationary, temperature drops back to 89-90C...

Kinda feel like the bus in Speed right now...
 

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I've seen cases where the impeller inside a water pump can wear and cause that type of behavior. Will move coolant at higher RPM's, won't move it effectively at lower speeds.

Not on a Kappa, but on other vehicles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I've seen cases where the impeller inside a water pump can wear and cause that type of behavior. Will move coolant at higher RPM's, won't move it effectively at lower speeds.

Not on a Kappa, but on other vehicles.
Well I certainly hope it's not the pump, it's not that old.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
FINALLY. Sorted it out. As it turns out no other procedures needed:

1. Wait for engine to cool down
2. Unplug the return valve hose a.k.a. "the nipple"
3. Squirt coolant all over yourself and engine, this happens along with #2
4. Lift tank and watch it bleed properly again
5. Top it up back to the cold fill
6. ???
7. PROFIT

Thermostat and fans seems to be in order now. Right on the dot at 100C fan turns on and temperature goes right back down to the 90-95 range. Didn't see 102C or above anymore. Coming up soon, a good engine shampoo.
 
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I just got done with a complete overhaul of the cooling system except for a water pump and even with an Airlift tool I checked it 3 times to make sure I had no air in the system it's not that big a deal using DDM Dave's method plus for me it's a little piece of mind .
 
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