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I'm hoping to get some advice. I have a 2008 Solstice GXP 2.0. I've been having problems recently where the temperature starts to rise while waiting in traffic or long lights. At first they said it was the thermostat. I replaced it but now it appears it the fan. Apparently there is a delay when it decides to kick in or not. So I was told I needed a fan module assembly. Which has been priced by a couple of places at $500-600 . I can't afford that..but I've been told and have read that I may not need the whole assembly...I just need the fan control module. Can someone tell me if this true? I have a heard time trusting mechanics and dealers. Thank you in advance
 

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I'm hoping to get some advice. I have a 2008 Solstice GXP 2.0. I've been having problems recently where the temperature starts to rise while waiting in traffic or long lights. At first they said it was the thermostat. I replaced it but now it appears it the fan. Apparently there is a delay when it decides to kick in or not. So I was told I needed a fan module assembly. Which has been priced by a couple of places at $500-600 . I can't afford that..but I've been told and have read that I may not need the whole assembly...I just need the fan control module. Can someone tell me if this true? I have a heard time trusting mechanics and dealers. Thank you in advance
There are others on the forum who can give more knowledgable advice, but for starters, try your air conditioner. If the fan comes on immediately, you don't need the whole fan assembly, just the control module.
 

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Welcome to the forum.

If the fan doesn't turn on with the AC, the problem can be with the fan itself or, more commonly, with the controller. To find out which it is you can disconnect the controller and connect 12V directly to the fan. If the fan runs it is OK, and the controller is at fault.

If you do need one, the fan controller is common to one used on the '08 Ford Crown Victoria. People have reported getting them for as little as $30.
 

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I second Chickenwire's comment. Start with the basics. The fan on my Solstice kicks in between 212 and 215 and immediately starts dropping the temp.

The digital temp readout drives me crazy! I constantly watch it like I have an obsessive compulsive disorder. I've been tempted to turn the DIC to mileage..... but...I...just...can't...do...it!!! AAARRRGGG!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I understand that temperature rises...the fan has some delay and doesn't kick in at all..so as I'm waiting for a long light or stuck in traffic which I am everyday that's when it heats up. I've had it reach 245 will waiting for a light. Once I start going it starts to go down
 

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As the others said... open the hood and with the engine running turn on the A/C, does the radiator fan turn on? If so, you problem lies elsewhere. If not, then it's most likely the controller, which is an easy DIY fix (one screw and unplug connectors). Again as said, the Crown Vic controller is a match and available cheaply. E.g. https://smile.amazon.com/Radiator-Cooling-Victoria-6W1Z-8B658-AC-940002904/dp/B015SIHIDU (no experience of this particular one - just an example).

The mechanic you went to was probably correct. GM does not sell the controller on its own, you have to buy the whole fan and controller assembly... hence the eye-watering price :(
 

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Yup start with the module TomatoSoup mentioned, the fan is supposed to slowly kick in at 195F and goes full blast at around 212F.
My module failed and also the connector from the fan to it was burnt, probably from the fan being constantly on.
If you replace the module and the car is still overheating while the fan is blowing then you most likely have air in the system or the thermostat is stuck closed, but since you changed it its most likely air, happened to me i had to bleed the system a few times.
 

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As the others said... open the hood and with the engine running turn on the A/C, does the radiator fan turn on? If so, you problem lies elsewhere. If not, then it's most likely the controller, which is an easy DIY fix (one screw and unplug connectors). Again as said, the Crown Vic controller is a match and available cheaply. E.g. https://smile.amazon.com/Radiator-Cooling-Victoria-6W1Z-8B658-AC-940002904/dp/B015SIHIDU (no experience of this particular one - just an example).

The mechanic you went to was probably correct. GM does not sell the controller on its own, you have to buy the whole fan and controller assembly... hence the eye-watering price :(
where exactly is that controller located? ( the crown vic controller is on amazon for $18.00)
 

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..........The digital temp readout drives me crazy! I constantly watch it like I have an obsessive compulsive disorder. I've been tempted to turn the DIC to mileage..... but...I...just...can't...do...it!!! AAARRRGGG!!!
Life is so much better in a Kappa without a DIC :)
 

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I second Chickenwire's comment. Start with the basics. The fan on my Solstice kicks in between 212 and 215 and immediately starts dropping the temp.

The digital temp readout drives me crazy! I constantly watch it like I have an obsessive compulsive disorder. I've been tempted to turn the DIC to mileage..... but...I...just...can't...do...it!!! AAARRRGGG!!!
I'm the same way. every time I stop for a traffic light my eyes automatically go straight to the DIC.
 

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I've never understood why my temp reading goes up and down constantly in my sol. In all my other cars, once the car warms up, the temp reading stays steady. can anyone out there explain this for me?
 

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The temp "reading" on most cars is a "gauge' equivalent of an idiot light. It only moves when the measured value is outside of a pre-set range. Back in the day it was a warning light that would come on and say "hot" but buyers didn't like not be able to "read" a value. The carmakers then changed them to gauges that are really just a needle replacing the light.

The DIC on the Solstice actually displays an actual digital value - that's why it moves. When you're sitting idle and no air is going through the radiator and engine compartment the temperature rises.
 

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The temp "reading" on most cars is a "gauge' equivalent of an idiot light. It only moves when the measured value is outside of a pre-set range. Back in the day it was a warning light that would come on and say "hot" but buyers didn't like not be able to "read" a value. The carmakers then changed them to gauges that are really just a needle replacing the light.

The DIC on the Solstice actually displays an actual digital value - that's why it moves. When you're sitting idle and no air is going through the radiator and engine compartment the temperature rises.
many thanks. It finally makes sense.
 

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Ever since I had a high temp issue (and solved it by installing the one way valves ion the heater hoses) I've kept my read out on coolant temp. But that's just a habit from racing cars. Ideally, I'd like to be able to read oil pressure too, but GM figures we don't deserve to be able to do that....it would have resulted in all sorts of warranty claims from people seeing the idle pressure lower than they liked.
 

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Ever since I had a high temp issue (and solved it by installing the one way valves ion the heater hoses) I've kept my read out on coolant temp. But that's just a habit from racing cars. Ideally, I'd like to be able to read oil pressure too, but GM figures we don't deserve to be able to do that....it would have resulted in all sorts of warranty claims from people seeing the idle pressure lower than they liked.
There is much truth to that! When GM introduced the first digital dash in a Cadillac they immediately received complaints about fuel mileage being poor. GM reprogrammed the software to leave the gauge on "F" longer, before dropping down to the bar-graph meter. The complaints immediately stopped.

The gas mileage still sucked, the owners just thought it was improved.
 
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