Pontiac Solstice Forum banner

1 - 20 of 35 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,980 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Heading home yesterday, I kept hearing what at first sounded like a heat shroud vibration but soon got much louder. Got home and let it run with the hood up and could tell it was coming from teh cooling fan area. Tore into it this morning to find this. Nothing fell out so my assumption is it just snapped and then melted from rubbing on the outter shroud. Checked my collision manual, GMPD, and ebay and it appears at this point that the entire shroud, motor and fan assembly is the only way to purchase a replacement fan. Anyone know of a way to get just the fan. I hate to drop a lot just to get ahold a plastic fan.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,202 Posts
Difficult to tell from the photo, is it just the shroud that broke? Or the fan blade piece (as well)? Can you just heat weld, or rivet with a strip of aluminum? If the fan blades are gone too, then replacing the whole structure may actually be the best way to go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,980 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Difficult to tell from the photo, is it just the shroud that broke? Or the fan blade piece (as well)? Can you just heat weld, or rivet with a strip of aluminum? If the fan blades are gone too, then replacing the whole structure may actually be the best way to go.
The shroud is fine. This pic is of the plastic ring that is part of/attached to, and runs around the perimiter of the fan blades.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
406 Posts
you could always remove the entire fan and shroud and install an aftermarket cooling fan, i dont know how easy it would be on these cars but it should be a simple wiring job, and maybe fabing up some mounting brackets, we did it on my friends jeep once, we took it all out and put in a big @$$ fan off ebay, and rigged it to turn on manually with a switch in the cabin(he used it in the desert alot) im sure it could be done on this car using the existing wiring, just connect the wires and mount it up!


Alright just went out too check it out, to put in an after market fan you'd have to snip these wires...

the red and the black after the connector and just solder/ heat shrink wrap the wires and mount up the new fan, it would be easier if you remove the engine cover, remove the airbox and/or charge pipes (you have a gxp) and possibly the upper radiator hose if needed drop in the new fan, test it out and reverse:willy:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,980 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
New cooling fan assembly should be here tomorrow. Thank you Source One Auto Parts for the best deal in the Nation for a NEW OEM 2.0L Assembly. :thumbs:
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
16,421 Posts
I just read your thread. Good luck with the change. Take some pics and let us know how difficult it is.

I actually have 2 spare assemblies on the shelf at home I bought from S1 last year.:thumbs:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,450 Posts
I was going to suggest a variation of Tomato's suggestion there - rivets and aluminum strip - but on the perimeter of the fan itself that would through stuff out of balance and cause worse issues. Hope it works out!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,980 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
After post update*** Before attempting this how to, Please see post #10 below first. "JUST MAY" save you some time and struggle.


So the Swap out is complete. Could definatly have used a second set of hands, but is doable one person with a lot of back and forth from driver to passenger sides during the actual lift out and set in steps. Also, removal of the upper coolant tubes large and small would make it easier to get in and out, but I did it without and avoided the chance of spill and vacuum filling the coolant again.

Prep. Disconnect the battery as you will need to disconnect the fan, MAF, and another sensor (I believe it is an airbag sensor).

First, disconnect the MAF sensor and loosen the front clamp of the cold air inlet.


Next, remove the CAI or stock air box (whichever you have) CAI is this screw and loosen the one the arrow is pointing to.


Across the top of the radiator, the plastic shield is held on by two plastic push plugs. Remove those and use something to hold it forward and out of the way.


Next, remove the one bolt and two nuts on the passenger side of the charge tube mounting bracket. This also releases the hold down of the radiator on this side which gives you some more play room. Also disconnect the harness to the sensor pictured here (again for room to manipulate the fan assembly).


Finaly, on the passenger side, disconnect the fan wires and remove the 10mm bolt at the top of the fan shroud.


Next thread will be driver side.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,980 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Driver side:

Remove the top retaining bolt of the charge tube.


Next, remove the front retainer bolt and the top clamp.



Once those are removed lift the charge tube up and secure out of the way with wire, rope, or zip tie. Having issues with the picture working but it shows it tied to the hood shock.


Then remove the 10mm bolt at the top corner of the fan shroud. Aslo pictured is the small coolant line mentioned before. just be careful of it when removing the fan.


That's it as far as taking things loose and apart before removing. One thing I also found helpfull was to keep the large upper coolant line up high when removing and re-installing the fan assembly.


Now is where a second set of hands comes in handy. The assembly must first be lifted up enough for the lower retaining fins to clear their brackets and be moved towards the rear of the car. Once they are cleared, you basicly push the fan assembly towards the passenger side and the start working the driver side of the assembly up and out as pictured. Also pictured here are the lower retaining tabs of the assembly mentioned.



Replace in reverse order.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,980 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Deffinatly a snug, struggle fit, small movement process getting it out and in. Biggest thing to watch is the shroud just under the upper radiator hose on the passenger side. removing the radiator retaining bracket gives just enough movement to get it out without breaking the shroud. and on the other side the rigid tubing and the smaller coolant line are the main things to watch out for and get cleared of. All is working well and I hope to not be doing this again any time soon. Now that it is all done and I'm sitting here after posting the how to, I'm looking at the picture with the fan removed and the large coolant line circled. Looking through the gap and not seeing anything in that space all the way to the floor, I probably could and should have done the swap out from underneath and not had to remove anything other than the two 10mm shroud bolts and the fan connection. :willy: Next person to do this please try this way first.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
292 Posts
And they say this fourn is dead. No Way!!!
LLLFLY
 
  • Like
Reactions: Sol_Man_Will

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
224 Posts
Does anyone know what the differences between the 2.0L GXP and the 2.4L fan assemblies are?

- Shawn
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,202 Posts
Wouldn't know all the differences, but one major one is that the GXP fan has an electronic variable speed control module. The 2.4 does not (just a resistor pack I think).
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
224 Posts
Wouldn't know all the differences, but one major one is that the GXP fan has an electronic variable speed control module. The 2.4 does not (just a resistor pack I think).
Ahhh, thanks. I need to order one and I was wondering why the $80 price difference.

- Shawn
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,639 Posts
Wouldn't know all the differences, but one major one is that the GXP fan has an electronic variable speed control module. The 2.4 does not (just a resistor pack I think).
Which is going bad on my car. The fan is sticking on full speed all the time, even when you start the car for the first time of the day. :lol:

It was stuck on for a week, but of course the day I went into service, it started working correctly again. :banghead: I canceled the appointment, so that I wouldn't incur an $80 diagnostic fee just to be told "unable to duplicate". It worked fine for about a week, and now it is stuck on again. Waiting to see if I go through the weekend and into next week, before crying wolf again.

Do you know if the "control module" can be ordered separately? And how difficult is it to replace? I tried unplugging the fan harness and checking for corrosion on the pins, but all looks fine.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
309 Posts
The speed control is part of the fan assy. Having said that, take it apart and find the speed control, google electronic speed controls and you'll probably find one. Worth a try.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Looks familiar! Except for the 2.4, I was able to remove the assembly by removing the plastic tabs, two 10mm bolts, and loosening the GMPP intake so it could move aside. One person and it didn't take long. The longest part was trying to work it down through the bottom! Ha. The bolt holes had trouble working past all the hoses, but you could probably get it through. Was easier for me to twist and come straight up.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,980 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Interesting and for a second I thought this was a picture I had taken. Does look just like mine did. So up or down has it's hang-ups but are both doable. Thanks for the input. Let's hope this doesn't become a trend in more vehicles.
 
1 - 20 of 35 Posts
Top