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It works!

Just joined the Forum so i could tell you guys that i ordered the RY 1532 from ebay($33) on Monday. Installed thursday night and voila! Now my fan comes on. The original and new part looked identical. I figure out that the module was bad by just connecting leads from the battery to the fan pigtail. Fan turned on full blast. So i figured it was the controller. I wonder if the new Caddy ATS 2.0 have the same fan module. Doesnt buick have a turbo 2.0 in one of their cars as well. Might be another alternative if you can buy the controller on its own. Thanks for the help. Cut my price and hours of work by at least 2/3.
 

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Just joined the Forum so i could tell you guys that i ordered the RY 1532 from ebay($33) on Monday. Installed thursday night and voila! Now my fan comes on. The original and new part looked identical. I figure out that the module was bad by just connecting leads from the battery to the fan pigtail. Fan turned on full blast. So i figured it was the controller. I wonder if the new Caddy ATS 2.0 have the same fan module. Doesnt buick have a turbo 2.0 in one of their cars as well. Might be another alternative if you can buy the controller on its own. Thanks for the help. Cut my price and hours of work by at least 2/3.
Glad to hear this, i tested it the same way, i almost bypassed the module and made my own fan relay harness, figured 100% fan speed was better than 0%. I ordered mine during the week:

Expected Delivery Day: Saturday, April 4, 2015

well its sunday now....:cuss:
 

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So I threw the new module on the car and the fans are working again, yay! exact same part.



 

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My fan quit and I found the 60 amp fuse blown.
Replaced the fuse and it worked fine for awhile then blew the fuse again.
Replaced fuse, then the temp climbed and I pulled over for a cool down and found coolant leaking from where I know now is the thermostat.
My theory now is the thermostat blew out from on and off high coolant temp caused by the failed module stopping the fan rather than the water pump which is what I am into now.

Long and short, keep an eye on these fans as they should be running when you shut down and carry extra 60 amp fuses and copper wire to jump blown fuse pins (Elmer Fudd sez "bwe berry, berry cwarefewl) as the potential high resistance from "Fudding" like this can cause lots of heat. Wire jumps are only for EMERGENCIES, not a "Fudd" fix.

My research says a resistor in the module goes high in resistance increasing amperage and blowing the fuse.
This can be checked with power supplied to the module. Dealers do it all the time which is where I got my info but why bother if the unit is constantly blowing the fuse. The module is BAD if it keeps blowing fuses.

Now be conservative about replacing the water pump as it is a pain. The thermostat can be a pain but change that if a puddle is there near the firewall and when you change it, boil it to make sure it works and drill a 1/16 - 1/8 hole in it.
If coolant is leaking towards the front, that's obviously water pump so do the thermostat too.

Thanks so much for the module sourcing information :thumbs:

Saves us po folks $$$ :yesnod:
 

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I need help I'm a bit of a novice but know enough to try to fix most simple issues myself.... I've read and re-red and re-read all the posts regarding over heating, I've installed the valves, removed the air from the lines all seemed well except when I was driving in slow traffic or at lights... I then discovered the fan stopped working.. I purchased the relay mentioned above (RY1532 Fan Control Relay Module Fits Ford Crown Victoria Town Car Marquis | eBay), installed it, and bam it threw a code after a few minutes. I don't recall the code something like 196...fan voltage.. something.. I can get it again, but I noticed that the fan plug is scorched and partially melted (fuse did not blow)... Did anybody else have this issue after purchasing the relay?

I have a 2009 gxp model. I need to now replace the fan and/or plug from the fan that connects to the relay.. I've searched the web, but I'm having a hard time finding what I need. Any links for a new fan and any suggestions on why this may have "blown" like this, and if anybody else had the same experience.
 

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what i found so far

I need help I'm a bit of a novice but know enough to try to fix most simple issues myself.... I've read and re-red and re-read all the posts regarding over heating, I've installed the valves, removed the air from the lines all seemed well except when I was driving in slow traffic or at lights... I then discovered the fan stopped working.. I purchased the relay mentioned above (RY1532 Fan Control Relay Module Fits Ford Crown Victoria Town Car Marquis | eBay), installed it, and bam it threw a code after a few minutes. I don't recall the code something like 196...fan voltage.. something.. I can get it again, but I noticed that the fan plug is scorched and partially melted (fuse did not blow)... Did anybody else have this issue after purchasing the relay?

I have a 2009 gxp model. I need to now replace the fan and/or plug from the fan that connects to the relay.. I've searched the web, but I'm having a hard time finding what I need. Any links for a new fan and any suggestions on why this may have "blown" like this, and if anybody else had the same experience.


OK so from my post above I did some more searching and found a picture... I need number 4 in this pic... 2008 Pontiac Solstice ENGINE COOLANT FAN

anybody know if I can get that part alone or still need the full assembly? Trying to save as much money as possible, also still need suggestions advice on why this may have blown with the new relay on it. 2009 gxp
 

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OK so from my post above I did some more searching and found a picture... I need number 4 in this pic... 2008 Pontiac Solstice ENGINE COOLANT FAN

anybody know if I can get that part alone or still need the full assembly? Trying to save as much money as possible, also still need suggestions advice on why this may have blown with the new relay on it. 2009 gxp
So, you want a new motor? Did the failure burn the plug on that new controller that you just installed? It could be that they are both fried. You would need a good DVOM to test the controller. With a fried fan connector, I
wouldn't connect that fan motor again unless I was sure that it was OK and the controller is the problem.

Yogi
 

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burn

So, you want a new motor? Did the failure burn the plug on that new controller that you just installed? It could be that they are both fried. You would need a good DVOM to test the controller. With a fried fan connector, I
wouldn't connect that fan motor again unless I was sure that it was OK and the controller is the problem.

Yogi
It burnt the plug to the fan motor. The controller had no burn marks that I could see. so I'm assuming all I need is to replace is the fan motor?? i'll find a DVOM and test the controller. I've put the old controller back on for the time being.
 

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I would think that either the motor connector was burnt before (with old controller) or maybe wasn't plugged in tightly and arc'd. I cannot see how the controller itself was to blame (it's only switching 12V after all).

As for getting a new plug or motor, you cannot buy them new on their own. GM only sells the complete assembly at great cost.

Put up a WTB post for just the fan/motor. Others have had the controller blow and replaced the whole assembly, so may have the fan still. Otherwise a trip to the local scrap yard to pull an equivalent connector (obviously, Crown Vic's use them).
 

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crown vic fan

Otherwise a trip to the local scrap yard to pull an equivalent connector (obviously, Crown Vic's use them).
my local autoparts store o'reilly sells an 08 crown vic fan/motor for around 70 bucks...would this work to replace the fan/motor in an 09 solstice? I have not pulled the fan motor out of my 09 solstice yet, just thought I would post this inquiry as looking at the schematics they look very similar... any thoughts/suggestions?
 

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Well the motor itself might not fit or have the same fan attachment. But at least you could cut off the connector and solder it on. I'd be sure to test that your motor still works though (hook it up to 12v and see if it runs - like from a battery charger)
 

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tested

be sure to test that your motor still works though (hook it up to 12v and see if it runs - like from a battery charger)
Ok, tested the new controller with a Volt reader.... it went from 2.98 to 11 to .23 to 30 back to 2.45. Don't think this is right as the most it should be, to my understanding is a max of 10 volts and with it acting like that I would assume the new controller is bad.... So I tested the old controller.. got -0.00 nothing else... So I plugged a couple wires into the fan connecter (neg, positive) and connected those to the battery... nothing, fan does not turn on.... so I'm thinking at this point the fan is hosed (possibly due to the "new" controller) as well as both the old and new controller do not work.... I'm exchanging the new controller for another one... but I think I still need a new fan motor.... Thoughts/suggestions... help....
 

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As TS said, use a couple of wires and hook the fan motor directly to a 12 volt source to see if it works but you said you've done that already. If the motor is dead you will need to get a fan motor as well.

You sure the wires weren't backwards when testing the fan?
 

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Ok, tested the new controller with a Volt reader.... it went from 2.98 to 11 to .23 to 30 back to 2.45. Don't think this is right as the most it should be, to my understanding is a max of 10 volts and with it acting like that I would assume the new controller is bad.... So I tested the old controller.. got -0.00 nothing else... So I plugged a couple wires into the fan connecter (neg, positive) and connected those to the battery... nothing, fan does not turn on.... so I'm thinking at this point the fan is hosed (possibly due to the "new" controller) as well as both the old and new controller do not work.... I'm exchanging the new controller for another one... but I think I still need a new fan motor.... Thoughts/suggestions... help....
Most modern controllers work by outputting a voltage that is "PWM" (Pulse Width Modulated). That is, the voltage cycles constantly between on-off-on-off.... The speed of the motor is determined by the ratio of length of time that the voltage is on compared to how long it is off. Of course, you also have to give the controller a signal that says "Turn on the fan motor X percent" in order to get a PWM output.

Your new controller may be fine. If the fan motor does not work when connected directly to a 12 v. source, I would say that is your problem, or at least a place to start.

Yogi
 

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well I'm gonna have to break down and get the entire assembly as I cannot find just the fan motor... and after all my tests it appears i'll need another controller and the motor anyway.... I'll be sending the defective controller I got on ebay back to the seller.
 

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Thanks for all the insight and suggestions everybody. I ordered the entire fan shroud assembly as it appears to be the fan and I am unable to find just the fan/motor and.... I can't go without my car any longer...
 

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So I got a question for all you Solstice gurus...

Fan wasn't working today so the car overheated. While I was waiting for the tow truck I found this thread. I have a pretty good relationship with the service department at the local Chevy dealership so I showed them all your findings about the Crown Vic's relay working on a Solstice GXP. They said to grab on and they'd use it if needed. Anyways, the only one I could find locally was:

Dorman OE Solutions 902-209 - Radiator Fan Relay | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Not nearly as cheap as the ones on eBay nor do they look the same but I was tight on time. So is it safe to assume they work the same?? Plug and play??
 

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So I pulled the fan/shroud assembly while I wait for the new one to arrive... and just on a whim I tried testing the fan again (connecting to battery) I got a spark.. fan didn't kick over so this intrigued me so I wiggled the fan plug a bit tried to locate any possible disconnected wire or plug.. and nope... then accidently dropped the fan while setting it down, retested and the fan kicked on.... then stopped.... I was confused... so I tried testing again and the fan would not come on... so I hit the back of the fan motor with a wrench... plugged it back in and the fan came on, shot out a bunch of black soot and remained on.. I unplugged it, plugged it back in and it remained on... unplugged it again and plugged it back in... nothing turned on.... hit it again, still nothing turned on... did get a small spark when touch the wires to the battery.... sooo I'm not sure, is this a bad fan still or is there something in the "under the hood" fuse box that might be shorting out, other than the 60 amp fuse as this is fine... reason I'm thinking the fuse is fine is because with the fuse out, then testing the plug the relay goes in I get 0 volts, plug the fuse back in test the relay and I get a contstant 12v. Again, is this the fan and its shorting out or is there something else in that "under the hood" fuse box I can test.... I did notice when the fan did kick on there was a clicking in that fuse box area.... like something was "flipping" on. ??????
 
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