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Pretty sure this sounds like something broken in the fan motor, making intermittent connection. Need a new one - I doubt it's repairable.
 

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ok, yeah I have a new one ordered and on its way, should be here tomorrow. (fan shroud assembly) which has all the parts included (shroud/fan/motor/controller) 390.00

Thank you for reading and replying
 

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I am with TS, specially when you said you hit it and black stuff came out of it.
 

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Just wanted to post my results and what I've done to fix the over heating issue.... First read the forums, bought the valves installed them, did the air sucky thingy, seemed ok until I noticed fan was no longer working, bought a new controller, fan burnt up, so had to replace entire fan assembly as no motor was available separately, installed it last night, did the sucky thingy to get the air out of the lines again.... and so far so good... Thanks all for the tips and help while I figured this thing out....

oh side note... the upper hose that connects to the radiator rubs on the bottom of something so when I was replacing things I noticed there is a small cut in the bottom of the hose... upon trying to find a replacement GM no longer makes this part at all and you cannot get it from GM or any GM dealers..... for now the hose is taped but, curious is this the same hose for maybe a Saturn sky and maybe they have them available?? gonna research this on the web. again.. thanks all for the help!!!
 

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Replacing another one on a friends car and we decided to use Dorman part number 902-209 since we could find it local. The dorman controller looks to be a little thicker and it includes new pigatils for both the fan connector and power connector if you damaged your existing wiring. It was $132.99 at O'Reillys
 

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The dorman controller did not work as expected since I ended up having to make changes in HPTuners to get fan to start up correctly. The fan motor itself may have issues that we were unaware of so make sure you can return it if you have issues with the controller.
 

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Great Posts!!

All I had the same issue, bad controller.
alternates available:

china 50 bucks including shipping 15 day delivery -
100% factory New 902 209 Radiator Fan Control Module/Relay RR28 6W1Z8B658AC/ 940002904-in Air-conditioning Installation from Automobiles & Motorcycles on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

Dorman 902-209 Radiator Fan Control Module/Relay

oriely autoparts: $192.99 Each (Part Number: RR28)

Rockauto - 100 bucks

APDTY 013310 Radiator Fan Relay (Replaces Ford 6W1Z-8B658-AC RR28)

2007 GXP
good luck all - hope this helps someone.

PS- do not buy the radiator fan assy from Rock auto for 78 bucks (says it is fo turbo but is not - have to send mine back :>(
No one in town but Ford with the part for $244. Found the Dorman 902-209 in stock at O'reilly for $139 one day before our local autocrossing 2-day weekend.

Awesome posts!
 

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Thanks.

The OEM replacement is $370 shipped - that is a bit pricey... It is frustrating that you can't buy the controller solo.

Adding a touch of reverse engineering... The controller essentially has two sides to it. On one side, the high power circuitry (the FETs and back EMF protection Diode). On the other, we have the low power logic control. It is my guess that the severe overheat condition, originally caused by the "bad jump start", may have fried the logic control.

Additional testing revealed the FET gate is either too fast for my oscilloscope to measure (unlikely, but possible), or it is perpetually sitting at 0V due to a logic control failure. If it is just stuck at 0V, the FETs will never turn on and close the circuit to the cooling fan. I have ordered a $40 function generator from Ebay to generate a new gate signal, and an upgraded 120V capable oscilloscope.

It is now my intention to use the function generator to test the FETs themselves, manually - under the assumption that the low power portion of the board has died. This device was designed to never be taken apart, including ultra-high temp solder which my iron won't melt. So, removing the low power portion will fundamentally ruin the device, but who cares at this point?... However, with the knowledge I have obtained thus far, it might be possible to salvage the high power side of the board and design a new analog (or better yet microcontroller) based circuit board and place it in the same case.

If the existing FETs are proved to still be viable, I would likely choose the analog path initially just to get the vehicle back in full operating condition. Using an opto-isolator 4N25, I can isolate the ECU signal in case of failure (and fool the ECU into thinking the OEM controller is in use). Then, it should be a simple matter of providing a valid gate signal to the FETs. If I choose the microcontroller option, it is feasible to build in a case thermistor to sense compartment temperature and keep the engine bay a little better ventilated. (It gets hot and dry in SoCal). Ordering the OEM part will be a last resort.

It will be at least a week or so before I get my parts in, I will post back with results.

If anybody happens to know the name of the 2 pin fan connector, and/or the 3/4 pin harness connector, please let me know. I'd like to order plugs to make extension cables for the fan and harness.
Did you ever get the part number for the fan connector?
 

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Thanks for all of the information. I had the fan stop working, and the shop diagnosed the problem as the controller. They wanted $340 for the part, but I bought a YK-132 off of Amazon and took it to them instead. They replaced the controller and said the fan was now working fine.

When I started the car to leave the shop, the check engine light was on. This light was definitely not on before. Has anyone run into an issue of using a substitute controller causing an error code? They reset it, but mentioned that it may have been caused by the substitute part. Since they may try to blame this on the part, I wanted to see if anyone else had run into it.

I also had the battery replaced, and I have read on the forums that this and jump-starting can be an issue that causes the check engine light to come on.

What is strange is that after the check engine light was reset, I started up and drove home with no warning light. It showed up the next time I started the car (a few days later).
 

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Is the fan and blade the same as a NON turbo unit less the controller?

I have a fan that is noisy, but the controller seems to be working fine.
 

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Took our 2009 GXP in for inspection and overheated while testing. Sure enough, fan isn't working. Took the fan out today and applied 12V via charger to the controller and it spins up fine. No codes BTW. Does this mean my ECU is not sending 12V when the temp goes above the set point? Guess I'll put the fan back in and take it to someone who can test the ECU signal. Any other suggestion(s)?
 

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YES!
Get a $22 Ford Crown Vic Fan Controller:
My Sky R/L radiator fan quit working, and I recently read about replacing the fan controller with one for the 2007 Ford Crown Vic for $22: RY1532 Fan Control Relay Module Fits Ford Crown Victoria Town Car Marquis | eBay

https://www.skyroadster.com/forums/f24/another-succesful-radiator-fan-controller-replacement-76793/

Yogi
I have a 07 GXP spare that I pulled the controller and fan out and put the controller on the 09. Same result > no fan operation after running temp up to 230. Hard to believe both controllers are bad. Pulled the fan from the 09. Bench tested both by applying 12v to the controllers and both fans spin up. Just tested voltage on the controller plug and have 12.8V constant that bumps to 14V when engine running.

Two options:
1) Both controllers are bad, i.e. the control circuit when plugged in will not close the circuit but if I apply 12V to the primary connectors on the controllers both fans spin up.
2) Controllers are good and something upstream in the ECU (?) is not sending the signal to the controller to allow the voltage to the fan.

I ran the temp up to 230 with the AC on and the fan never ran. Even plugged in the second fan/controller with the engine on and no go wiht that one either.
 

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Fan speed control for the 2.0 is by a PWM signal to pin 4 of the fan controller and should be easy enough to measure.

The PWM signal works in reverse, where near B+ is off, and near ground is full speed, I presume so that most failures will set the fan to full speed.
 
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