Pretty sure this sounds like something broken in the fan motor, making intermittent connection. Need a new one - I doubt it's repairable.
No one in town but Ford with the part for $244. Found the Dorman 902-209 in stock at O'reilly for $139 one day before our local autocrossing 2-day weekend.All I had the same issue, bad controller.
china 50 bucks including shipping 15 day delivery -
100% factory New 902 209 Radiator Fan Control Module/Relay RR28 6W1Z8B658AC/ 940002904-in Air-conditioning Installation from Automobiles & Motorcycles on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
Dorman 902-209 Radiator Fan Control Module/Relay
oriely autoparts: $192.99 Each (Part Number: RR28)
Rockauto - 100 bucks
APDTY 013310 Radiator Fan Relay (Replaces Ford 6W1Z-8B658-AC RR28)
good luck all - hope this helps someone.
PS- do not buy the radiator fan assy from Rock auto for 78 bucks (says it is fo turbo but is not - have to send mine back :>(
Did you ever get the part number for the fan connector?Thanks.
The OEM replacement is $370 shipped - that is a bit pricey... It is frustrating that you can't buy the controller solo.
Adding a touch of reverse engineering... The controller essentially has two sides to it. On one side, the high power circuitry (the FETs and back EMF protection Diode). On the other, we have the low power logic control. It is my guess that the severe overheat condition, originally caused by the "bad jump start", may have fried the logic control.
Additional testing revealed the FET gate is either too fast for my oscilloscope to measure (unlikely, but possible), or it is perpetually sitting at 0V due to a logic control failure. If it is just stuck at 0V, the FETs will never turn on and close the circuit to the cooling fan. I have ordered a $40 function generator from Ebay to generate a new gate signal, and an upgraded 120V capable oscilloscope.
It is now my intention to use the function generator to test the FETs themselves, manually - under the assumption that the low power portion of the board has died. This device was designed to never be taken apart, including ultra-high temp solder which my iron won't melt. So, removing the low power portion will fundamentally ruin the device, but who cares at this point?... However, with the knowledge I have obtained thus far, it might be possible to salvage the high power side of the board and design a new analog (or better yet microcontroller) based circuit board and place it in the same case.
If the existing FETs are proved to still be viable, I would likely choose the analog path initially just to get the vehicle back in full operating condition. Using an opto-isolator 4N25, I can isolate the ECU signal in case of failure (and fool the ECU into thinking the OEM controller is in use). Then, it should be a simple matter of providing a valid gate signal to the FETs. If I choose the microcontroller option, it is feasible to build in a case thermistor to sense compartment temperature and keep the engine bay a little better ventilated. (It gets hot and dry in SoCal). Ordering the OEM part will be a last resort.
It will be at least a week or so before I get my parts in, I will post back with results.
If anybody happens to know the name of the 2 pin fan connector, and/or the 3/4 pin harness connector, please let me know. I'd like to order plugs to make extension cables for the fan and harness.
I have a 07 GXP spare that I pulled the controller and fan out and put the controller on the 09. Same result > no fan operation after running temp up to 230. Hard to believe both controllers are bad. Pulled the fan from the 09. Bench tested both by applying 12v to the controllers and both fans spin up. Just tested voltage on the controller plug and have 12.8V constant that bumps to 14V when engine running.YES!
Get a $22 Ford Crown Vic Fan Controller:
My Sky R/L radiator fan quit working, and I recently read about replacing the fan controller with one for the 2007 Ford Crown Vic for $22: RY1532 Fan Control Relay Module Fits Ford Crown Victoria Town Car Marquis | eBay