Pontiac Solstice Forum banner

21 - 29 of 29 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
also Since you have the wheel off you want to check a couple of bolts. There are 3 of them. they are behind the spindle (aka knuckle) You brake rotor (round silver thing) is attached to your hub and the hub is bolted into the spindle. The 3 bolts hold the hub in. Make sure those 3 bolts are tight. they are just under

I had an interesting issue with my car where I would have to pump the breaks 3-4 times before they would grab. after checking a bunch of things with the brake system and I fould nothing wrong I changed the front brake pads. I noticed they only had about 1/3 life left and I said what the hell. well when I changed the pads it put a hell of a lot more meat in there and the calimper was almost all the way compressed. Then I heard scraping when I would corner. The brake problem was because one of the hub bolts had fell out. the second was only holding on my about 2-3 threads and the third had started to loosen up. This was causing the hub and wheel bearing to move around when cornering. because the caliper is bolted to the spindle it was not moving. but the brake rotor is attached to the hub so it was. with the worn pads the calipers had ample room to compress and this is what they did. This is what caused me to have to pump the brakes to get it to grab. with the caliper fully compressed with the new pads there was no "slop" and the caliper was not able to compress so the pads would drag on the rotor at an odd angle making a scraping sound when cornering.

My car has less then 30K miles on it when this happened. They were never tightened properly from the factory. both sides were loose. That could have been a very bad day had I just dealt with the pumping of the brakes and not changed my pads which lead me to where the actual problem was.

You can read more about the problem and some photos to show you exactly where the bolts are.


I ended up putting loctite on mine and torquing them down to 85 lbs. I then put nail polish where the bolt head meets the spindle. the nail polish will break off if the bolt turns at all. 2 years now and so far so good they haven't moved at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Thanks guys. Very great knowledge here. I was just looking at the screws and hoping I don’t need to take the wheel off to replace. Part won’t be here until Tuesday anyway. I do prefer the factory look and fit. Wondering if I should try the push pins solution instead of the screws. Drivers side looks intact thankfully!

I’m jealous of you guys who got TSB work done. Many years ago, I took my dealer for a test drive of my 2006 and showed him the differential whine under warranty (light pressure on gas pedal at 30+ speeds) and he citied “normal noise and operation”. Now I hear later they replaced differentials and mine is still factory :(
When I bought the second Solstice 2006 in 2013..Pontiac was long gone.. It had the the LSD whine and Growl when tight turning. Replace the diff fliud ( Drain plug at Bottom ) Fill plug Behind the wheel with Royal Purple 75W90 . It has the additive for LSDs. 60,000 since and no growl or whine
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
If it’s that easy to do the fluid I will Certainly have a go with that. I recall that my rear differential — this may be the same thing, I am not an expert mechanic by any stretch — Had a slow leak according to the GM dealer but I let it go. The solstice is about to go in for its annual inspection and oil change so we will see what they say.

I already told them to send the fender liner back because it showed up scratched and damaged just like everyone here at the form said it would. They said that there’s a way to do a special order where extra care will be taken and it will be shipped special but will take a month so I told them to go ahead and do that.

As far as lining up the fender, I think I’m going to order a long skinny 10 ratcheting metric wrench so I can try and loosen the body frame screws down the side while the fender is still attached. I don’t recall being able to do any height adjustments other than at those two bolts but will give it a try. The fender itself went back on pretty well but definitely isn’t lined up so I have to think it’s that frame piece.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,148 Posts
If it’s that easy to do the fluid I will Certainly have a go with that. I recall that my rear differential — this may be the same thing, I am not an expert mechanic by any stretch — Had a slow leak according to the GM dealer but I let it go. The solstice is about to go in for its annual inspection and oil change so we will see what they say.

I already told them to send the fender liner back because it showed up scratched and damaged just like everyone here at the form said it would. They said that there’s a way to do a special order where extra care will be taken and it will be shipped special but will take a month so I told them to go ahead and do that.

As far as lining up the fender, I think I’m going to order a long skinny 10 ratcheting metric wrench so I can try and loosen the body frame screws down the side while the fender is still attached. I don’t recall being able to do any height adjustments other than at those two bolts but will give it a try. The fender itself went back on pretty well but definitely isn’t lined up so I have to think it’s that frame piece.
You might want to loosen all the other screws in the panel before you move that inner support up. It may not want to move unless you do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
928 Posts
I used black fender washers, and just left the screws loose enough so the the liner can move a little. Works great. Also, you can buy plastic fender washers, or just use large push pins that are for underhood insulation, and drill them to make your own.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
Yeah I’ll loosen the entire dang fender too.

The liner isn’t even attached but I already bought the push pins to replace the screws on both liners. Goodbye screws! Feels so weird to replace metal with plastic on a car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,269 Posts
That confirms it.I have always thought that you were weird.
Actually it's more like 1987 - that's when I moved into R&D and new product development. It's also when I grew my moustache. 23 years old trying to convince automotive engineers who lived by the mantra "if it doesn't rust, it ain't strong enough" that plastic could work!
 
21 - 29 of 29 Posts
Top