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also Since you have the wheel off you want to check a couple of bolts. There are 3 of them. they are behind the spindle (aka knuckle) You brake rotor (round silver thing) is attached to your hub and the hub is bolted into the spindle. The 3 bolts hold the hub in. Make sure those 3 bolts are tight. they are just under

I had an interesting issue with my car where I would have to pump the breaks 3-4 times before they would grab. after checking a bunch of things with the brake system and I fould nothing wrong I changed the front brake pads. I noticed they only had about 1/3 life left and I said what the hell. well when I changed the pads it put a hell of a lot more meat in there and the calimper was almost all the way compressed. Then I heard scraping when I would corner. The brake problem was because one of the hub bolts had fell out. the second was only holding on my about 2-3 threads and the third had started to loosen up. This was causing the hub and wheel bearing to move around when cornering. because the caliper is bolted to the spindle it was not moving. but the brake rotor is attached to the hub so it was. with the worn pads the calipers had ample room to compress and this is what they did. This is what caused me to have to pump the brakes to get it to grab. with the caliper fully compressed with the new pads there was no "slop" and the caliper was not able to compress so the pads would drag on the rotor at an odd angle making a scraping sound when cornering.

My car has less then 30K miles on it when this happened. They were never tightened properly from the factory. both sides were loose. That could have been a very bad day had I just dealt with the pumping of the brakes and not changed my pads which lead me to where the actual problem was.

You can read more about the problem and some photos to show you exactly where the bolts are.


I ended up putting loctite on mine and torquing them down to 85 lbs. I then put nail polish where the bolt head meets the spindle. the nail polish will break off if the bolt turns at all. 2 years now and so far so good they haven't moved at all.
 

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Thanks guys. Very great knowledge here. I was just looking at the screws and hoping I don’t need to take the wheel off to replace. Part won’t be here until Tuesday anyway. I do prefer the factory look and fit. Wondering if I should try the push pins solution instead of the screws. Drivers side looks intact thankfully!

I’m jealous of you guys who got TSB work done. Many years ago, I took my dealer for a test drive of my 2006 and showed him the differential whine under warranty (light pressure on gas pedal at 30+ speeds) and he citied “normal noise and operation”. Now I hear later they replaced differentials and mine is still factory :(
When I bought the second Solstice 2006 in 2013..Pontiac was long gone.. It had the the LSD whine and Growl when tight turning. Replace the diff fliud ( Drain plug at Bottom ) Fill plug Behind the wheel with Royal Purple 75W90 . It has the additive for LSDs. 60,000 since and no growl or whine
 

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Discussion Starter #23
If it’s that easy to do the fluid I will Certainly have a go with that. I recall that my rear differential — this may be the same thing, I am not an expert mechanic by any stretch — Had a slow leak according to the GM dealer but I let it go. The solstice is about to go in for its annual inspection and oil change so we will see what they say.

I already told them to send the fender liner back because it showed up scratched and damaged just like everyone here at the form said it would. They said that there’s a way to do a special order where extra care will be taken and it will be shipped special but will take a month so I told them to go ahead and do that.

As far as lining up the fender, I think I’m going to order a long skinny 10 ratcheting metric wrench so I can try and loosen the body frame screws down the side while the fender is still attached. I don’t recall being able to do any height adjustments other than at those two bolts but will give it a try. The fender itself went back on pretty well but definitely isn’t lined up so I have to think it’s that frame piece.
 

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If it’s that easy to do the fluid I will Certainly have a go with that. I recall that my rear differential — this may be the same thing, I am not an expert mechanic by any stretch — Had a slow leak according to the GM dealer but I let it go. The solstice is about to go in for its annual inspection and oil change so we will see what they say.

I already told them to send the fender liner back because it showed up scratched and damaged just like everyone here at the form said it would. They said that there’s a way to do a special order where extra care will be taken and it will be shipped special but will take a month so I told them to go ahead and do that.

As far as lining up the fender, I think I’m going to order a long skinny 10 ratcheting metric wrench so I can try and loosen the body frame screws down the side while the fender is still attached. I don’t recall being able to do any height adjustments other than at those two bolts but will give it a try. The fender itself went back on pretty well but definitely isn’t lined up so I have to think it’s that frame piece.
You might want to loosen all the other screws in the panel before you move that inner support up. It may not want to move unless you do.
 

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I used black fender washers, and just left the screws loose enough so the the liner can move a little. Works great. Also, you can buy plastic fender washers, or just use large push pins that are for underhood insulation, and drill them to make your own.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Yeah I’ll loosen the entire dang fender too.

The liner isn’t even attached but I already bought the push pins to replace the screws on both liners. Goodbye screws! Feels so weird to replace metal with plastic on a car.
 

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That confirms it.I have always thought that you were weird.
Actually it's more like 1987 - that's when I moved into R&D and new product development. It's also when I grew my moustache. 23 years old trying to convince automotive engineers who lived by the mantra "if it doesn't rust, it ain't strong enough" that plastic could work!
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I've got the new liner in and for the first time need to jack up the solstice, only want to jack up the passenger side enough to get the tire off and put in the new liner. I never realized putting tire in the air to get it off could be so complex on a car. So many different posts about it and could use some guidance. All I want to do is get the left front passenger wheel off. Do I need to purchase a special puck to do this? At worst I thought I'd need to borrow a robust floor jack instead of use my bottle jack or the factory jack in the trunk. The more I read the more complex it sounds.
 

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I lift mine with a pretty standard floor jack. Whether you need a puck, or some other spacer, depends on the design of your jack.

The jacking point under the chassis is actually above the edge of the fender, so it is easy to bend or break the lower fender lip if your jack doesn't clear it.
 
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Discussion Starter #32
Ah I gotcha, so a floor jack plus a hockey puck between gives you that extra height so the jack doesn't bend the fender. Makes sense. I don't see why a regular old hockey puck can't work without having to custom drill it to fit perfect for a quick tire change, maybe that will be the route I take. Sounds like a bare bottle jack isn't super smart.
 

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Ah I gotcha, so a floor jack plus a hockey puck between gives you that extra height so the jack doesn't bend the fender. Makes sense. I don't see why a regular old hockey puck can't work without having to custom drill it to fit perfect for a quick tire change, maybe that will be the route I take. Sounds like a bare bottle jack isn't super smart.
Hockey puck isn't needed, I just use a short cutoff of a 2x4 between the jack and the lifting point. It's never been a problem.

:thumbs:

.
 

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Hockey puck isn't needed, I just use a short cutoff of a 2x4 between the jack and the lifting point. It's never been a problem.

:thumbs:

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Dave is right. short piece of 2x4 is fine. The front lifting point that GM recommends is not on the frame rail but under the car. That point is OK if you are lifting at all four points at once but is easily bent if jacking one wheel at a time. The slot in the frame rail immediately behind the front wheel will work if you are careful. There is about a 1/4" space between the sheet metal work and the frame rail at that point and you can smash it flat with a jack if you don't use a spacer between the sheet metal and the rail, such as a 1/4" scrap of plywood. (Mine was already smashed flat against the rail when I bought the car).

My own solution was to modify two pucks for the front to accomodate that space and permanently mount all four on the frame rail.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Thanks guys. You’ve scared me a bit as I’m just jacking the front passenger wheel enough yo remove it, replace the fender liner, and put it back on. I borrowed a robust floor jack that I was hoping would work, the jack platform is about the size of a puck, I will have to see if that plus a 2x4 or a puck can safely jack just the front right wheel without bending the frame. What a pain.
 

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If you don't want to go the puck route, take a look at the jack point right behind the front wheel on the frame rail. If your body panel is already flattened against frame rail, just stick a 2x4 scrap right there and jack it up. you aren't going to make it worse. If your sheet metal panel has not been flattened, stick a scrap of plywood (1/4" or 3/8") in the gap between the frame rail and the body panel and then use the 2x4 scrap on top of the jack and go for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
This helps thanks. I’m the original owner so hopefully it’s in good shape under there. Hopefully my schedule allows me some time an evening this week to finally get this done.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Alright so after much delay I have a floor jack and I'm ready to go today and I realized I'm still stuck. Man this car is a pain to jack up for someone who rarely works on cars. All just to replace a dang cracked fender liner!

Anyway, I am determined to do this now and not give up. But I am stuck.

So it looks like there are 3 potential jack points for doing just one front passenger wheel removal.

- #1 is the two metal holes just slightly back towards the fender from the passenger wheel. I drove up on a couple horse mats to get clearance and managed to get a floor jack under that spot (no wood in between the metal and the jack though, I'd need to drive on something much higher to get more clearance I guess). That said, even if I jack this without, where the heck am I to safely place a jack stand once I get it up? Same spot won't work as there isn't a spot for both the jack and the stand.

- #2 There's the hole further back from the wheel that you typically place the puck and eyelet in which then allows you to place the jackstand under the metal frame piece with the two round holes. If I used this for the floor jack (no puck, so I need to make one first) I could then slide the jack stand under point #1 (closer to wheel).

- #3 Directly behind the wheel and under the hood (no idea how I'd get at this without driving the right wheel higher up on something and even then seems inconvenient to use for either a floor jack or a jack stand for this purpose.

I'd love some opinions on my safest approach. I literally just need to barely get this wheel off just long enough to replace this liner and won't be under the car at all if I can help it but I still want to use a stand and do this safely.
 

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Alright so after much delay I have a floor jack and I'm ready to go today and I realized I'm still stuck. Man this car is a pain to jack up for someone who rarely works on cars. All just to replace a dang cracked fender liner!

Anyway, I am determined to do this now and not give up. But I am stuck.

So it looks like there are 3 potential jack points for doing just one front passenger wheel removal.

- #1 is the two metal holes just slightly back towards the fender from the passenger wheel. I drove up on a couple horse mats to get clearance and managed to get a floor jack under that spot (no wood in between the metal and the jack though, I'd need to drive on something much higher to get more clearance I guess). That said, even if I jack this without, where the heck am I to safely place a jack stand once I get it up? Same spot won't work as there isn't a spot for both the jack and the stand.

- #2 There's the hole further back from the wheel that you typically place the puck and eyelet in which then allows you to place the jackstand under the metal frame piece with the two round holes. If I used this for the floor jack (no puck, so I need to make one first) I could then slide the jack stand under point #1 (closer to wheel).

- #3 Directly behind the wheel and under the hood (no idea how I'd get at this without driving the right wheel higher up on something and even then seems inconvenient to use for either a floor jack or a jack stand for this purpose.

I'd love some opinions on my safest approach. I literally just need to barely get this wheel off just long enough to replace this liner and won't be under the car at all if I can help it but I still want to use a stand and do this safely.
I have a puck permanently installed in that GM recommended spot but if you don't, just use a piece of wood. I roll my jack under the car from the side to reach that jack point. You do not have to get under the car at all to change that liner so IMHO you can leave the car on the jack long enough to do the repairs. If it is a hydraulic jack, I wouldn't leave it there overnight, It could leak down. If you do leave it overnight, just put the wheel back on temporarily and it won't matter if it leaks down. Otherwise, as in a previous post, just use the jack at the frame rail with a piece of wood.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I have a puck permanently installed in that GM recommended spot but if you don't, just use a piece of wood. I roll my jack under the car from the side to reach that jack point. You do not have to get under the car at all to change that liner so IMHO you can leave the car on the jack long enough to do the repairs. If it is a hydraulic jack, I wouldn't leave it there overnight, It could leak down. If you do leave it overnight, just put the wheel back on temporarily and it won't matter if it leaks down. Otherwise, as in a previous post, just use the jack at the frame rail with a piece of wood.
Thanks for replying, I'm glad I posted as I was going to use point #1 (the exposed frame spot with the 2 round circles) but if a piece of wood over that smaller hole further back on the car right under the door panel on the edge is preferred, that's the one I will use! I get now why the puck or wood is recommended, that hole is SO close to the edge of the car I could see it damaging things without a buffer between the jack.

If I really wanted to put a jack stand under, I guess I COULD put it under spot #1 for safety then since that area will be clear. Spot #2 that you recommend will also be easier to get the floor jack under.
 
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