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Discussion Starter #1
I have a car with the GMPP tune for 10 years crimped.... no problem. Just had another car GMPP tuned with the plug N play harness and have the beloved P0236.... now what?
 

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What’s the output of the MAP sensors look like? Sane values?


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Discussion Starter #3
What’s the output of the MAP sensors look like? Sane values?


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I have no idea what you are talking about as i am from the 19th century :)
Are those values something I can get with my harbor freight scanner?
 

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Are those values something I can get with my harbor freight scanner?
I have no idea. Maybe look up the owner's manual? I use HP Tuners for this stuff. Torque Pro and some other apps will also show you live data like this, with the aid of a cheap Bluetooth or WiFi OBD-2 adapter. (Figure $15-$25 on Amazon.)

The reason I ask is to determine if the connection to the new sensors is the issue or if there's something else going on. If the MAP readings are invalid, then there is likely an issue with the harness or the sensors themselves.

When I installed the 3-bar MAP sensors with the plug & play harness, the harness arrived incorrectly wired. Two of the wires in one of the cables were switched in one connector. But, that caused several codes and the car ran like utter crap. Dave @ Werks identified the problem pretty quickly, and it was a simple matter to push the crossed wires back out of the connector and reattach them in the correct positions.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have no idea. Maybe look up the owner's manual? I use HP Tuners for this stuff. Torque Pro and some other apps will also show you live data like this, with the aid of a cheap Bluetooth or WiFi OBD-2 adapter. (Figure $15-$25 on Amazon.)

The reason I ask is to determine if the connection to the new sensors is the issue or if there's something else going on. If the MAP readings are invalid, then there is likely an issue with the harness or the sensors themselves.

When I installed the 3-bar MAP sensors with the plug & play harness, the harness arrived incorrectly wired. Two of the wires in one of the cables were switched in one connector. But, that caused several codes and the car ran like utter crap. Dave @ Werks identified the problem pretty quickly, and it was a simple matter to push the crossed wires back out of the connector and reattach them in the correct positions.
I was not being facetious. I truly know nothing about this electronic nonsense so any help is greatly appreciated.

lol... my friends and I always make the comment of "it can't be that... it's new" and of course that is exactly what usually is. I think I still have the instructions for butchering the harness. I'll verify the plug/play harness pins are in the correct location. The car actually starts/runs fine, just no boost.

I do have Torque Pro. Bought it specifically for oil pressure after rebuild of engine for initial start up.... of course it told me everything EXCEPT oil pressure:frown2:
 

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Most scanners will not read sensor values, they can only read codes and reset the MIL. It is, however, worth checking. What model scanner do you have?

P0236 is set when the pressure of the Intake Air Sensor is not within the correct range relative to the car's barometric pressure sensor during cranking or idling.

You could have a bad Intake Sensor, a bad Baro Sensor, or a wiring problem. A device that can read the sensor values is going to be important.

Did you get the code immediately after installing the tune and the new sensor?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Without going in great detail, car showed the code before I even left the dealer (back in April). Could not leave the car there as it had no top and was partially assembled. Cleared the code, checked connections and focused on other issues of the car. Fast forward to now.... Car is roadworthy so I went for a short drive to verify an alignment good enough to get me to the alignment shop later this week. Code came up right away.

I'll see if I have anything to read the voltages tonight. I don't see anything on the Torque app resembling any kind of MAP monitoring. I'll check my scanner tonight.
 

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In my 2008 manual. P0236 refers to issues with the turbocharger boost pressure sensor, not the MAP sensor.

What year is your car?
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
car is 2007

reason I was focusing on MAP was everyone on here noting that their P0236 post gmpp tune was eliminated by soldering the butchered harness crimps.....and the fact that is all I changed. Where is the boost pressure sensor located..and how is that tested?

I have two sets of these plug-n-play harnesses and both are color coded for cobalt/hhr however everything routes where it is supposed to go. Continuity verified on all. MAP psi is 4.5 with Torque app & obll reader with car warm and idling. Voltage at MAP on charge tube reads 4.95volts with ignition on.

car did not throw the code since I erased it yesterday, but then again I did not go for a drive. Thursday I am taking it up to the alignment shop so we will see then.
 

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4.5 psi at idle?

At zero boost, should be closer to 1 bar (14ish).

Maybe @JohnWR or someone can chime in and correct me here.


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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
What do I know.... heck I was shocked I was actually able to check this stuff without catching something on fire :)

Just out of curiosity I hooked up reader to our 2007 Malibu and got a similar value.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Idle should be 0 PSI (1 bar absolute, 0 bar relative)
Ok, so what does that mean? If that is true how do I make it 0 psi....and why is the other car I checked the same? I'll check the other Solstice tomorrow. If that one checks around 4.5 psi yet runs fine am I supposed to make that 0 psi also because it is supposed to be?
Geez, I hate this modern crap. I swear the model T was more reliable.
 

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Are those not the same thing? Manifold air pressure == boost?
There are two sensors in the GXP: The Turbocharger Boost Sensor is between the intercooler and the throttle body and the MAP sensor is after the throttle body.
4.5 psi at idle?

At zero boost, should be closer to 1 bar (14ish).

Maybe @JohnWR or someone can chime in and correct me here.
The Turbocharger Boost Sensor should read 14.7 psia (or 0 psi of boost) at idle. The MAP sensor will read in the range of 4.5 psia (or 10 psi of vacuum) at idle.
Ok, so what does that mean? If that is true how do I make it 0 psi....and why is the other car I checked the same? I'll check the other Solstice tomorrow. If that one checks around 4.5 psi yet runs fine am I supposed to make that 0 psi also because it is supposed to be?
Geez, I hate this modern crap. I swear the model T was more reliable.
The pressure you are reading is normal. The problem is that you are reading the wrong pressure.

The "modern crap" is more complex, but more capable and, overall more reliable.
The Model T was significantly simpler but its 2.9l engine developed 20 hp.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well thank you so much johnWR for correcting all of us and yet contributing nothing to fixing this "capable" & "reliable" car. In a couple weeks I will be driving my crude, incapable, unreliable 40yr old Triumph to Watkins Glen and back while my "capable" "reliable" gem is sitting in the garage.

I don't care how "capable or "reliable" something is labeled..... if it doesn't work it is useless, if it works it capable. I can hire the most capable and reliable carpenter to build my deck, but if he doesn't show up he isn't capable or reliable. So I believe the correct verbiage would be more capable & reliable when they are and a real pain in the arse when they're not......not to mention expensive.
 

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Well thank you so much johnWR for correcting all of us and yet contributing nothing to fixing this "capable" & "reliable" car. In a couple weeks I will be driving my crude, incapable, unreliable 40yr old Triumph to Watkins Glen and back while my "capable" "reliable" gem is sitting in the garage.

I don't care how "capable or "reliable" something is labeled..... if it doesn't work it is useless, if it works it capable. I can hire the most capable and reliable carpenter to build my deck, but if he doesn't show up he isn't capable or reliable. So I believe the correct verbiage would be more capable & reliable when they are and a real pain in the arse when they're not......not to mention expensive.
Even with 20th century thinking; typing a message for help on an internet forum with few details is the equivalent of asking: 'My 1972 Triumph isn't running right, what should I do?'

Understanding you're frustrated working with a computer-controlled car, JohnWR and others have tried to clarify and ask questions to get more information in the interest of helping you follow a troubleshooting path. Being a cranky curmudgeon back doesn't help them, help you.

Without an open mind and enough information, vehicle diagnosis via textual means on Internet forums is worth every penny you pay for.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Sorry to offend. I thought I was following suggestions to the best of my ability and providing information that was asked of me. If johnWR has some insight to offer in what to check and how to check it... that will be graciously accepted as I don't have a clue... on the other hand just telling me my unreliable & incapable car is capable & reliable does absolutely nothing to help.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The Turbocharger Boost Sensor should read 14.7 psia (or 0 psi of boost) at idle. The MAP sensor will read in the range of 4.5 psia (or 10 psi of vacuum) at idle.

So what is the turbocharger boost sensor parameter labeled in the Torque Pro or ob11..... I see nothing in the menus resembling turbocharger boost sensor.
 

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Even with 20th century thinking; typing a message for help on an internet forum with few details is the equivalent of asking: 'My 1972 Triumph isn't running right, what should I do?'

Understanding you're frustrated working with a computer-controlled car, JohnWR and others have tried to clarify and ask questions to get more information in the interest of helping you follow a troubleshooting path. Being a cranky curmudgeon back doesn't help them, help you.

Without an open mind and enough information, vehicle diagnosis via textual means on Internet forums is worth every penny you pay for.
Thank you.
Sorry to offend. I thought I was following suggestions to the best of my ability and providing information that was asked of me. If johnWR has some insight to offer in what to check and how to check it... that will be graciously accepted as I don't have a clue... on the other hand just telling me my unreliable & incapable car is capable & reliable does absolutely nothing to help.
"Sorry to offend"? Seriously?

What about the insight you have already been given, and the re-direction after you started off down the wrong path? If you don't have the knowledge and ability to work on something, maybe you should leave it to those who do.

If the only comment I had made to you was the response to your reliability comment you might have something to say, but that was a complete side note to the help I was giving you. Think about it, you took a vehicle that is capable of going 100k+ miles with very little maintenance or repair and broke it while trying to add to its already respectable 260 hp. You then compare its reliability to something that generates about 100 hp on a good day and requires head work every 60k miles or so. I have two TR-6s in my possession, so I know all about them. You can easily fix anything that breaks, usually on the side of the road, and that is a good thing because they break a lot.

Good luck with your problem.
 
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