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Discussion Starter #21
Thank you.

"Sorry to offend"? Seriously?

What about the insight you have already been given, and the re-direction after you started off down the wrong path? If you don't have the knowledge and ability to work on something, maybe you should leave it to those who do.

If the only comment I had made to you was the response to your reliability comment you might have something to say, but that was a complete side note to the help I was giving you. Think about it, you took a vehicle that is capable of going 100k+ miles with very little maintenance or repair and broke it while trying to add to its already respectable 260 hp. You then compare its reliability to something that generates about 100 hp on a good day and requires head work every 60k miles or so. I have two TR-6s in my possession, so I know all about them. You can easily fix anything that breaks, usually on the side of the road, and that is a good thing because they break a lot.

Good luck with your problem.
Point well taken. I certainly reacted inappropriately. However I will still differ in our definitions of capable & reliable. To me it is capable & reliable if it is...not that it has the potential to be.

...and as to your shaming me on my knowledge & ability... you will get no argument from me as I have no delusions of how special I am. Heck, I sold a perfectly reliable car and bought this thing. As to your comment of my only responding to your reliability comment....I am not sure what I was supposed to reply to. Yes I know there are two sensors.... I put them there. I thought they were both referred to as MAP sensors since they have the same part# and are labeled as such. As far as not checking the correct sensor all I was doing was relaying what I saw on the scanner. I did not see any MAP1, MAP2 or turbocharger boost pressure parameter on the equipment I have at my disposal.... I will look again when I return home.
 

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Point well taken. I certainly reacted inappropriately. However I will still differ in our definitions of capable & reliable. To me it is capable & reliable if it is...not that it has the potential to be.

...and as to your shaming me on my knowledge & ability... you will get no argument from me as I have no delusions of how special I am. Heck, I sold a perfectly reliable car and bought this thing. As to your comment of my only responding to your reliability comment....I am not sure what I was supposed to reply to. Yes I know there are two sensors.... I put them there. I thought they were both referred to as MAP sensors since they have the same part# and are labeled as such. As far as not checking the correct sensor all I was doing was relaying what I saw on the scanner. I did not see any MAP1, MAP2 or turbocharger boost pressure parameter on the equipment I have at my disposal.... I will look again when I return home.
You are confusing, or deliberately ignoring, the difference between my comment (overall more reliable) to the specific case of one car that doesn't work after you "improved" it. My NA Sky has 104k miles and my RL Sky has 84k miles with very little work beyond fluid changes. I don't think that my TR-6 has gotten from one oil change to the next without something having to be adjusted, repaired, or replaced. Never mind apparently not understanding what (more capable) means. I love my TR-6, but my Sky is faster, more reliable, more comfortable, better handling, requires less maintenance, and gets better fuel mileage.

There is only one intake manifold, so there is only one MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor. Even though they are the same device, the two pressure transducers do not have the same function, so they have different identities. It is almost certainly one of ECM parameters that is listed in the factory service manual, or I could plug my scanner into my car and search through the data fields to identify the one you need, but since you have already decided that I am "contributing nothing" to fixing your problem it clearly isn't worth my time.
 

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I don't want to get in the middle of this, so purely as an aside... I've been deep in these fora for many (many) years, and I've never heard the term "turbocharger boost sensor" used for the LNF engine.

As I look into the GM documentation, I see them refer to the two sensors as "manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor" and "intake air pressure temp (TMAP) sensor". So not the same nomenclature, but yes, different uses.
@gzfqy6 - maybe "intake air pressure", or some variant, shows up on your reader?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I don't want to get in the middle of this, so purely as an aside... I've been deep in these fora for many (many) years, and I've never heard the term "turbocharger boost sensor" used for the LNF engine.

As I look into the GM documentation, I see them refer to the two sensors as "manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor" and "intake air pressure temp (TMAP) sensor". So not the same nomenclature, but yes, different uses.

@gzfqy6 - maybe "intake air pressure", or some variant, shows up on your reader?
these are the pages from the scanner I have .....
 

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I don't want to get in the middle of this, so purely as an aside... I've been deep in these fora for many (many) years, and I've never heard the term "turbocharger boost sensor" used for the LNF engine.....
I'm sure the forums (fora is a mis-use of the word, but you know that) know more than the factory service manual, but look at item 16.
 

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For what its worth, it is not always given the same name. The Cobalt SS Vacuum and Boost Diagram refers to it as the Intake Air Pressure and Temperature Sensor. Certainly a misleading name, since it is not actually in the intake, but it is what it is. Same diagram, still No. 16, but a different name.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
From those, I would assume "BARO (psi)" == barometric pressure. 13.9 would be about a 1/2 psi negative.
Is that what it is supposed to be, or is that the problem.... and this is the reading from the sensor in the charge tube? I don't want to label it for fear of generating more tomato/tomato debate :)
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I have a car with the GMPP tune for 10 years crimped.... no problem. Just had another car GMPP tuned with the plug N play harness and have the beloved P0236.... now what?
Success!!! ECM damaged by dealership loading tune. Granted it took forever dealing with the dealership given they claimed the P0236 was caused by a faulty turbocharger fouling the MAP despite the fact that the car was brought to them operating properly before their service. Thankfully I had access to the calibrators that developed this vehicle that were kind enough to take me thru all the diagnostics including a way to temporarily install the ECM from my other car to verify. That's the good news..... bad news is that since I did the diagnostics at home versus thru using another dealership the State of Michigan would not allow me to re-coup my costs from the dealer screwing up the ECM & charging me for bogus diagnostics. Small claims court would be financially ineffectual so at least I have a car that works..... I'm just ripped off a few $$$$.

Car still throws occasional codes likely do to the catless downpipe. Since it doesn't put the car into limp mode I don't care at this point. 1st track day is scheduled at Gingerman in April so we'll see how it works..... that is unless the governor shuts everything down.
 

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gz - where are you located? Wife wanted to run the Gingerman until I told her that she'd need a roll bar for our vert.

AND - isn't it still "self-isolation" if it's just you in the car? lol
 

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Glad you got it sorted out. So, what is the procedure for installing the ECM from another vehicle?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
gz - where are you located? Wife wanted to run the Gingerman until I told her that she'd need a roll bar for our vert.

AND - isn't it still "self-isolation" if it's just you in the car? lol
Oh gosh this roll bar question can go no forever.... in my case our club (3ballsracing) allows it, but certainly doesn't encourage it. It still comes down to what each track allows. Gingerman & Grattan that we run regularly allows, but requires top to be up...... don't ask me the logic of that. I did put the RPM rollbar in my car just to avoid the subjection.... even then some sanctions will argue the type bar you have. So all this babbling could have been replaced by.."depends" ;)

I called gingerman anticipating they had cancelled Aprils schedule due to governor's directive, but as of now they are still up and running.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Glad you got it sorted out. So, what is the procedure for installing the ECM from another vehicle?
It is really quite simple....however before I pass it on let me contact the calibrator to make sure it is not some proprietary issue or something. Keep in mind this was a direct copy as in a 2007 gxp with gmpp upgrade on both cars..... I rather doubt it would work trying to put a 2009 with an aftermarket tune into a stock 2007. I will get back to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
It is really quite simple....however before I pass it on let me contact the calibrator to make sure it is not some proprietary issue or something. Keep in mind this was a direct copy as in a 2007 gxp with gmpp upgrade on both cars..... I rather doubt it would work trying to put a 2009 with an aftermarket tune into a stock 2007. I will get back to you.
Turns out it is something already out there on the web. Please note that I did not write this nor am I taking credit for it nor claiming it works all the time. It served it's purpose for me in moving the ECM from one car to another and then returning it back to the original car with no issues working exactly as stated in the directions (see page 2).
 

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