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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
1. DDM is a FIRST CLASS company. My backbone was shipped promptly and I was impressed. The ProBeam arrived here in Central PA today eventhough I only ordered it Sunday night! GREAT service.

2. Packing and parts were perfect.

3. I used my Rhino ramps and front wheel blocks for the install of the probeam and all went well ( I used the same combo previously for the backbone install). It helps to read-reread and re-re-read the instructions first. Buy a good 11/32 drill bit - I bought a titanium tipped one, worth the $$.

4. After drilling the centerbeam and holding the probeam up to it I had a problem getting my one hand on top of the center beam to install the nut on the first bolt holding the probeam to the crossmember - my hand was slightly too large to fit up there. My son-in-law had a slightly smaller hand and got the nut installed. BTW, all of the previous poster are correct about wearing safety googles and a hat when drilling and installing the bolts. If you don't you'll be sorry. The right and left holes drilled through the center beam were accomplished with the probeam in place instead of removing it. I followed the directions to score or mark the drill holes, then took the attachment brackets off the wheels before drilling the holes to assure a vertical hole being drilled --- this was much easier. Once the 2 remaining holes (left and right through probeam and cross member) were drilled, I installed both right and left long bolts with the flat washers and snuggly attached the probeam to the crossmember. Then I re-attached the wheel brackes and tightened them to the wheels first before tightening to the pro beam. The secret is to not tighten the bracket to the wheels until the bolts/washers/ nuts are loosely attached to the brackets that run from the wheels to the probeam. Then it is a slow but steady process of tightening all of the the bolts. Probeam first, brackets to wheels secon and brackets to probeam last.

5. After I double checked to make sure all bolts were properly tightened, I took it for a spin. The rear end "feels" tighter and much more solid. After the car was properly warmed up, I punched it in 2nd and 3rd gear and you could feel the rear end was much more true than before.

6. The machining of the probeam, the brackets, bolts, washers and nuts is top notch. Directions are easy to understand.

Well done DDM!:) Money well spent.
 

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Thanks for posting this. What level of backbone did you get?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Got the street backbone. Plenty for me. The hardest part of that install was lowering the exhaust from the rubber hanger. I took off one side of each rubber hanger and it gave me enough flex to pull the old pan out. It was easier installing the DDM backbone because it is solid. Incredibly well machined. Even with the street version the car "felt" much more solid. Now with the DDM ProBeam it has really tightened up.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes,

I got the Backbone and Probeam installed together when i was at DDM.

The thing drives like its on rails! Very predictable in the corners, even with the extra ponies. All in all, awesome upgrades.
miller11386: With that DDM 2871 turbo upgrade, how many ponies is that bad boy( or girl - sorry ladies) putting to the wheels?:lol:
 

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Got the street backbone. Plenty for me. The hardest part of that install was lowering the exhaust from the rubber hanger. I took off one side of each rubber hanger and it gave me enough flex to pull the old pan out. It was easier installing the DDM backbone because it is solid. Incredibly well machined. Even with the street version the car "felt" much more solid. Now with the DDM ProBeam it has really tightened up.
Ugh, I remember those rubber hangers... :( Such a PITA to dislodge.

So you have to lower the rear of the exhaust? I would think as flim / flimsy as the stock piece is it should be able to come straight out without dropping part of the exhaust.
 

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I dropped the exhaust because it gives easier access putting in the DDM part which is NOT flexible.

I use two long phillips head screwdrivers to remove the rubber hangers. It works very well.
 

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Skyline00, I installed mine in the exact same manner as you and I think it is the easiest way. My 2006 is like it's on rails now in turns and I think the limited slip diff is now working as it should. Did the backbone at the same time and love the handling improvements.
 

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yep - rubber hangers were the hardest part. That, and combing small pieces of metal out of my hair (I did not wear a hat).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yep - rubber hangers were the hardest part. That, and combing small pieces of metal out of my hair (I did not wear a hat).
Ybrew: I listened to your advice, wore a hat and goggles and still got some stuff in my hair from lying on the garage floor under the car up on the ramps. It was a LONG shower with washing my hair ( what's left!) a number of times:willy:
 

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yep - rubber hangers were the hardest part. That, and combing small pieces of metal out of my hair (I did not wear a hat).
A shot of windex on those rubber hangers makes a world of difference getting them off... it might help on your comb too :lol:

If you have room you can push a prybar through the center of the rubber hanger and use the hanger mount for leverage to pull them off too.
 

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Hmm good ideas here... I'll be sure to try them.
 

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A shot of windex on those rubber hangers makes a world of difference getting them off... it might help on your comb too :lol:

If you have room you can push a prybar through the center of the rubber hanger and use the hanger mount for leverage to pull them off too.


:lol:

Makes a big difference!

Oh, and you might get the old one out, but the new one will be a fight without dropping the exhaust! I only dropped the left side though.

Jim :cool:
 

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A shot of windex on those rubber hangers makes a world of difference getting them off... it might help on your comb too :lol:

If you have room you can push a prybar through the center of the rubber hanger and use the hanger mount for leverage to pull them off too.
Actually, I'd say forgo the windex (because it contains ammonia), and use a mild soap/water solution, or even better yet, silicon, to care for the rubber.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I used Palmolive unscented basic liquid soap and it worked great once I had enough on the end of the hanger stub. BTW, JimVonBaden that picture from "My Big Fat Greek Wedding" is hilarious. I never knew how many uses Windex had!:thumbs:
 

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Ugh, I remember those rubber hangers... :( Such a PITA to dislodge.

So you have to lower the rear of the exhaust? I would think as flim / flimsy as the stock piece is it should be able to come straight out without dropping part of the exhaust.
When I installed mine, there was NO WAY the stock piece was coming out without dropping the exhaust. While the stock unit is much thinner, it's not flexible.
I have the worst time with those hangers. The two times I've had to drop the exhaust it's taken me at least an hour to get it unhooked from those frickin' things!
 

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Thanks for posting this. What level of backbone did you get?
I got the 1/2" extreme race backbone. Definately keeps the wheels on the ground and helps the chassis twist! I have less frame flexing now with the extra power than I had before without the power.
 

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miller11386: With that DDM 2871 turbo upgrade, how many ponies is that bad boy( or girl - sorry ladies) putting to the wheels?:lol:
350WHP 380 WTQ.

I have a thread with videos on the sky side. Just search DDM 2871 Upgrade
 

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There is another option you can use when installing the backbone. I took out the two bolts where the exhaust connects to the cat in front and dropped the front of the exhaust instead of the back. I had previously installed the headers and cat myself and found this to be very quick.
 
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