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@raygun You were at NASSAM 2018? I really should have gotten off call and spent more time there than the 4-5 hours total that I did. I missed the opportunity to meet a lot of good people.

Grammer was my worst subject ever, I still to this day don't know when to use a comma. At least @raygun is a hella mechanic!

I believe the tool is aluminum....maybe???

You may have missed the below link earlier in this thread.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/08-...ion-152/walnut-blasting-metro-atlanta-325238/

A Cobalt fella used this same adapter with a lot of success. I think he had pictures on the 17th response to the below thread? Check it out!
Huh. That's neat. I'd love to see some pics of the other side of the adapter when it shows up. (Also, despite the Cobalt guy's really pretty setup, I'd still recommend taping off the other three ports.)

Yeah, I was at NASSAM last year Monday through Thursday, about a week after I bought the GXP. And, of course, my windshield got cracked on a cruise. I think the best part was the stop light at the top of mountains in the park.

I won't be able to make it this year. Next year I might bring my (now) nine year-old along.

I met a lot of great people. It would've been better, I think, if there had been some more organized social things in the evening. It was sometimes difficult to find anyone to have dinner with as I really didn't know anyone. But, I still had a lot of fun.

For future reference (when the picture inevitably disappears from the Cobalt site, and someone is looking for it here):

 

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Discussion Starter #64
Much larger than I imagined. The Harbor Freight blow gun extension fits perfectly through the hole.
How does it fit into the intake passage? Tight, loose?
Loose, however the Cobalt forum member stated that he wrapped tape around the adapter until it was snug-ish. I suspect that it wouldn't take that much tape.

Also, if the adapter was pushed against the head, even with a little force, nothing would leak. I'm not sure if two hands are enough but I'm going to try it that way.

Additionally, I'll have all valves taped off that I'm not working on, as well as the spark plug holes. Then I plan on taking a giant painters clear sheet of plastic and drape the entire engine bay with it, leaving only a small hole to work through.
 

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Loose, however the Cobalt forum member stated that he wrapped tape around the adapter until it was snug-ish. I suspect that it wouldn't take that much tape.

Also, if the adapter was pushed against the head, even with a little force, nothing would leak. I'm not sure if two hands are enough but I'm going to try it that way.

Additionally, I'll have all valves taped off that I'm not working on, as well as the spark plug holes. Then I plan on taking a giant painters clear sheet of plastic and drape the entire engine bay with it, leaving only a small hole to work through.
Thanks Saveaux,

Will wait to see how it works.
 

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I think he said the vacuum helped keep it against the head.
You might be able to cut a silicone gasket from something like an old phone case to help make it air tight
 

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Discussion Starter #67
What direction do I turn the crank bolt to raise/lower valves? Clockwise? Tightening the bolt?

Am I correct that if I spin in the opposite direction I can potentially bend valves?
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Bummer, I would have made you a GREAT deal on a "slightly used" one once I'm finished with it!
Wouldn't you keep it for the next time?
Rob mentioned that he will probably clean valves once every 12 years or so based on the amount of miles that are put on the green car.

I put about 2300 miles on my GXP the first year I had it. Based on that, I may be looking at 10-15 years before I'll need to clean valves again. I'm a tool hoarder, but this may be one worth flipping after I use it.

Ive hung onto my Trifecta Red cable, but it too may be worth selling...
 

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Discussion Starter #76
I cleaned the valves, or at least attempted to clean them today. Here were some of my processes/take aways:

- Pulled Spark plugs (taped holes closed) & Venom Bar to make turning the crank easier (23mm socket and 1/2 ratchet - was effortless to turn)
- Taped all cylinders closed with 2" painters tape, then cut out cylinder 1 with a scalpel, walnut blasted it, then taped it closed and cut out cylinder 2, so forth and so on
- I started off with a plastic drop cloth covering the entire engine bay, with just a single hole cut out. Eventually this became a pain in the *** because the vacuum kept sucking the plastic into it.
- The suction adapter for a Mini cooper prevented any walnut media from getting into the engine bay.
- Instead of the suction adapter, I preferred simply sticking a vacuum attachment into the cylinder while blasting. I preferred this because I could actually see where I was blasting as opposed to being pretty blind with the mini adapter. Some walnut media got into the engine bay this way, but it was very minimal.
- Whether I was using the suction adapter or simply shoving a vacuum attachment in, the use of a long air blow gun was instrumental in my success.
- The dental style picks were very helpful in scraping off excess material. I didn't go crazy with this because I have a bad lower back and it was killing me to bend over.
- Some of the cylinders turned out better than others.
- I tried to spray carb cleaner in one of the cylinders but despite changing out nozzles, I couldn't get anything to come out of the aerosol can. I used WD-40 instead.....I'm not really sure this helped.
- I've never sandblasted or media blasted in my life, but it seemed to work best to pull the trigger and release, and then repeat a million times as opposed to pulling trigger and holding it in. When I simply held it in the vacuum couldn't keep up (at least with the mini cooper adapter in place and both valves filled completely up with walnut media)
- I would run the vacuum and media blaster then switch the media blaster for the air blow gun long nozzle to blow out the cylinder then would inspect with a flashlight, see where I needed to focus on next, then put the media blaster back on the air hose and go after it. It seemed like I would repeat this process anywhere from 10-15 times per cylinder.
- A 24lb bag of the same walnut media that @raygun listed from Amazon cost $24.99, I MAYBE used 2-3 pounds.
- At the end I taped the last cylinder up and took the blow gun and blew out the engine bay, there really wasn't much walnut media.
- I didn't use or need a mask to do the entire job.

The only reason I even pulled my intake off was to install a throttle body and intake spacer from Performance Auto Werks that I got at NASSAM 2018. I didn't get my cylinders as **** and span as some people may strive for, I just wanted to clean them up a little. Overall it was a very easy process, just time consuming.

My wife came home from work at the time that I was bolting the intake back up, this weekend I'll get everything hooked up and fire it up.

I bought new AC-Delco 42-108 spark plugs off eBay for $14.50, will use anti-seize on install. Does a 0.032 spark gap sound right?
 

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Great job!

Spec on the plugs is 0.035", I think. Some have advised closing them up a bit, but I can't speak to the advisability of that. I tend to go with whatever the tuner tells me.

That's one of the cleanest engine bays I've seen. How many miles does your car have?
 

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Adding dual injection with proper fuel management like some of the new cars have would be nice, or a remote electric crankcase evacuation pump. I love my gutless 2.4.:grin:
 
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