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I continue to have problems with the Stage II kit that I had installed a couple of years ago. The dealer has tried fixing it at least five times now. The car will sometimes run like it has no power or like it is stuck in second gear. Back in April, they soldered the connections on the sensors and the car ran like it never did before. I don't think the kit ever worked right until then. It ran perfect for one month and then started acting up again. The dealer put a data recorder on my car to capture the cause when it wouuld malfunction. They said it was the oxygen sensor and that Pontiac had a new and revised one for the kit. They installed that last week and the car ran good for two days. It is missing like crazy again and now even stalls out completely as I park it at low rpms. It is also getting hard to restart when this happens. I am close to telling the dealer to take off the kit and give me my money back. At least the car ran smoothly before I had the kit installed. Anyone out there have any advice short of taking off the kit?

Disgusted 07 Deep in Scranton
 

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Mileage on the engine?
If you have access to a camera scope (I realize it's a tall order, but sometimes you get lucky), use it and try to scope the valves via the intake manifold. The snap on camera scope will fit in the same hole the map sensor sits in, and give you a bit of room to move it around to look at the valves. Check for black buildup.
Failing that, a compression test is probably in order, at the very least to rule out mechanical issues.
 

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sounds like a clogged cat, to test pull the o2 sensor before the cat letting the car breath (this will make a funny noise and setoff the cel but it lets the exhaust breath and car should idle fine)

if that proves true buy the solo downpipe and your done
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Disgusted in Scranton

I can't see where a clogged cat would suddenly The car could be running horribly one minute and 60 seconds later, it has full power and no hesitation.
 

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It's my understanding the stage kit is a software program, which means it affects the original parameters. Point being wondering if what worked fine before may now be more sensitive to the new changes. :dunno:
 

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your checklist

1)boost/leakdown test
2)compression test
3)Clean MAF and MAP sensors
4) check that O2 sensors are cycling as they should Via a logging tool (HPT)
5)If all else fails, Burn down the dealership

Also if its running badly, it should be throwing codes (immature ones) that can be read with a scanner. You need to see what those are to diagnose the issue.

Its not magic what mechanics do, they just know how to get the data and interpret it.
 

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The dealer has tried fixing it at least five times now. The car will sometimes run like it has no power or like it is stuck in second gear.
The car is going into a version of limp mode:

1. Limp Mode Lite = Throttle control remains basically normal, but Peak Boost is held to no more than about 4 PSI. Spark Advance may be reduced and A/F may be set a little rich. This may set as a "Silent Code", which means no CEL will appear on the dash. However, there will be stored incident codes in the ECM history.

2. Full Limp Mode = Throttle control reduced to about 25% and no Boost allowed at all. Spark Advance is reduced and A/F is rich. Will definitely throw a CEL on the dash and have stored incident codes.

The ECM will employ one of these two engine protection protocols depending on the severity of sensor readings being out of anticipated range.

Odds are, your failures are not being caused by the GMPP tune. However, if there is a failure, the GMPP tune will bring it to light much quicker. Request the stored incident codes and report back here. The codes will help diagnose what is really going on; this is what your service department should be doing. If you see P0101 in there, then odds are you have a leak in the charge system somewhere.

Top Common Failures, with the GMPP tune:

1. Failed Crimp Connectors on 3 Bar sensors (you have already soldered)
2. Failed Throttle Body Clamp on intake, or other failed clamps on intake charge system, causing air leak.
3. Cracked (on passenger side end tank seam) or Ballooned (middle will look like a pregnant pig) Intercooler. Crack will cause a leak. Ballooned will cause wacky air velocities that the TMAP will read as out of anticipated.
4. Failed 3 Bar Sensor or O2 Sensor (This one is unlikely, but does happen occasionally. However, you find the service departments tend to change sensors first, before finding the real problem)

Find a different Service Department that is familiar with the Kappa platform.
 

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In support of that GS said, in reading your post it appears that when the dealer works on the car, it runs ok for a day or two then has problems.

Do all the simple things while you are following GS's advice on capturing the codes.

Verify that the intercooler piping is all tight. Start at one end and work your way around to the other, carefully verifying that the connections are good and tight. Any leakage can cause issues.

Check the intercooler. Do a visual inspection and verify that it does not have any road damage. Since you have an 07 it is possible, though unlikely that you have one of the bad batch of intercoolers that baloon due to manufacturing defects. If it is leaking but not catastrophically then the ECM can compensate for the slight leak but it occasionally exceeds the compensation range allowed to the ECM and goes into limp mode. While you are there, I would pull the shroud off the IC and make sure it does not have any kind of mechanical damage - like rock strikes that cause small leak(s) or cracking of the can, generally on the outlet side. It took our local tech several days to isolate and identify this cracked intercooler issue locally and he is both very good and experienced. It might be the source of your problems.

Check the MAF sensor mount. If the dealer (or you) had the air cleaner top off to service the AC its possible that the MAF mount was stressed and cracked. This is not unusual and easily repaired. But if you dont notice it it may cause some or most of the symptoms you describe.

Check the ground on the front of the engine. They have been known to have problems and all kinds of wierd things can happen when they do.

Get an OBD code reader. They are relatively cheap and you can carry it with you so you can read any codes if you have the problem again. You can also reset the code to see if that cleans up the limp mode.

Its possible that one of your O2 sensors is going bad intermittently or that you have a loose or burned wiring to the sensor. Make sure that is not the problem by visually inspecting it. Verify that the O2 sensor is fully seated and torqued into the cat.

Hang in there and get us more info so we can help if possible
 

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I will still check to make sure the soldering was done correctly.
 

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As far as the stock intercooler... yeah- pretty sure you can have a bad on I have 2008, and I had a bad one... I wouldn't keep the stock intercool if you ever plan to push more than 14psi... just my .02!
 

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As far as the stock intercooler... yeah- pretty sure you can have a bad on I have 2008, and I had a bad one... I wouldn't keep the stock intercool if you ever plan to push more than 14psi... just my .02!
:agree:

I am on my 3rd OEM IC now: Lost the first one to ballooning and the second one split the passenger side end tank seam. I do have the GMPP tune. I still have a Werks Street IC waiting to in, WHEN I loose OEM IC number 3. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
They put a data recorder on the car and the code came up as a bad sensor, which they replaced. Worked fine for two days and now back to the same old story.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
They did do that! The code came up as a faulty Stage II kit sensor, which has been revised and improved. They put the new sensor on and the car ran great for two days. Now back to hit or miss again.
 

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If the sensor improved it temporarily, they probably reset the computer as well. Probably a cracked or ballooned IC/boost leak somewhere.
 

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They put a data recorder on the car and the code came up as a bad sensor, which they replaced. Worked fine for two days and now back to the same old story.
#4 from my list posted earlier. :lol::lol::lol:

If I had a dollar for every time I have heard about service changing out a sensor, because that was their first diagnosis; I would be rich by now.

Find out what codes they are pulling. If P0101 keeps coming up, you have a boost leak somewhere.
 

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jrmartin - any updates for us yet?

Since the sensor wiring is so often the cause of problems, I agree with LatinVenom's suggestion to be sure the sensor wire soldering was done correctly or hasn't, for some reason, failed.

I had similar problems about 18 months ago when my GXP had less than 6,000miles on it. The dealer who installed my GMPP kit it at the time I bought the car (and GM's 800 number) wouldn't do anything to help me. With much help from this forum, including some of the posters in this thread, a Subaru dealer found the sensors' wiring corroded at the crimp connectors. They soldered the wires and wrapped the connections. No more problems since.
 

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Stories like this is when I'm glad I'm bone stock....GL
No, you just don't see the stories from all the happy owners that did this and have had thousands of trouble free miles.

He has a problem, they just haven't found it yet. Very frustrating!

PS - drive a GMPP tuned car and then tell us you are glad you didn't tune....;)
 
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