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Discussion Starter #1
I started having an issue with opening the door locks on my GXP using the fob some time ago. I didn't want to continue to try as if it was early in the morning and I had to manually unlock the car, the alarm would sound off until I could leap inside and turn the ignition key on to stop it. So for a few months (until I got around to dealing with it) I just manually locked the car using the door switch and unlocked it using the key.

What was happening was that although the fob would lock the car, it would only unlock it once in awhile. At first I figured that something in the actuator was in need of lubrication, but they are basically either a sealed unit or if you do take them apart there is no guarantee you'd get it back together again. I knew it wasn't a battery issue as I had resoldered the battery holder right after I bought the car after reading of problems others were having - the crappy soldering job was stressed by the weight of the board and flexed until it broke.

Took it to a friend's shop and he found when he took the fob apart that the part on the flexible membrane that the button pushes against to contact the circuit board contacts had eroded and no longer made good reliable contact, but shorting across the circuit board itself with a small screwdriver worked every time.

The solution was just to buy new fobs and program them, and problem solved.

I thought it might be useful to post this as a search didn't turn up a lot of posts on this exact problem. Unfortunately the inexpensive replacement fob housings don't come with the flexible membrane (unless someone knows of some that do, in which case speak up!) so replacement of the whole fob is necessary. If you do that, you can avoid reprogramming by inserting your old boards in the new fobs.
 

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Yeah a common problem and one that has been talked about at length. I keep a spare case for the fob in a drawer in case I need it as they take a while to come from China and yeah, they come with the membrane.

They are dirt cheap so it can't hurt to have an extra. These are the ones I have used in the past.

 
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Discussion Starter #3
I wonder why the contact surfaces aren't more durable? In the high end audio world we have switches that function perfectly for decades. Of course they weren't specced by the bean counters at GM, so that may be the explanation.

We are having the same issues in the vintage car world - original Lucas switches never seem to wear out, but Chinese replicas have a high failure rate right out of the box.

I'd bet that GM sourced these switches from the same place as they got a lot of other parts (like the wheels) from - China. Doesn't mean they are automatically bad, but it does increase the possibility that they are.
 

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Yes, there have been lots of posts on this. In my case, I just cut little circles out of (real) alumin(i)um duct tape and pasted on the back of the membrane buttons. Has worked fine ever since (it's been several years).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Interesting approach. Should have thought about it myself. Next time one kacks I'll put some aluminum foil on top of some paper or light cardboard (as a backer during punching) and hit it with my leather punch to get the right size round and then glue it (super glue?) to the button.

Last time I did something like that I was customizing a head gasket to add some holes with a wad punch against a block of lead (diving weight I had handy).
 

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hmm I wonderr if thats whats rong with mine not wanting to unlock or having to press the **** out of it for a few seconds...I figured it was the fob as the car lock and unlocks it's self instantly with turning off the ignition. I do have a after market fob thats not the right# but it's the right looking one...so I just swap the cases!!I may have to find those and do it !!
 

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Mine was doing the same and the I literally had to be right next to the car to get it to work. So I bought the Dorman programmer and used it....but now I have the "low battery in fob" warning on my DIC. So I called Dorman and they were supposed to be sending me a new programmer for the last month. I found out today that they are on "backorder" till November. And that the low battery warning is that the programmer is actually off in frequency just a tad so the BCM thinks its a weak signal and the battery is dead.
 

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well I took the rong remotes I got off flebay for $9 and swapped the rubber into my gm and wow, instant unlock&lock, I was sure to check trunk too it also worked awesome. so thanks to all for this info!! I was looking for a printed membrane in the "china remote" there wasent one....I wondered if it had been left out, then I took mine apart and it was the same. I then noticed the buttons have a carbon contact molded into the rubber membrane,I think they are molded but may be just stuck in a pocket, they may be moveable , I didn't try. I just swaped the rubber"membrain" portion and all is good. I only have 1 remote for the car. I ordered these rong ones so i could have extra....but they were rong remote number...and that cost me $50 at the dealer to find out they were rong....but the dealer did throw in chips,dents & greese all over my leather and rear window as they were doing the seat srs thingy too.....last time that car go's to a dealer for anything..well as long as I own it.
thansk again guys this was what i needed, it was starting to get aggravating, even though I cant drive the car...errrrrrr , me not car.arm,ankle&back issues. sitting, shifting and clutching...not happening currently.
 
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