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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
On the way home today I think I heard a clunk when putting the window down. Now the window wont go up or down at all. I can hear the window motor trying to work when I press the button so I assume that's not dead and the window maybe out of alignment or something. Also I can move it up or down freely with the panel off but it doesn't seem to come up all the way. I've read some window adjustment threads and downloaded the pdf, I'm just not sure if that's what I should be doing or not. Anyone run into this or have so info what to do to fix?
 

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Regulator comes with motor and is about 1.1 hours to install....
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ouch. Thanks guys. Is there a way to keep the window up in the meantime? Also Is there a post on how to install? If so, I will probably look at that and determine if it's something I can do my self.
 

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I decided not to mess with it in my Sky after opening it up and seeing all the corrosion and the trouble of adjustments. I let the dealer fix it with all its costs, BUT, I got it back good as new..(they designed it horribly), water eventually seeps in there and corrodes a lot of the mechanism.. HOWEVER, I was able to close the window with some effort, BUT it was PITA, you'll have to remove the door panel and give it go, absolutely no promises because it depends on what broke..PLUS I donno if the Solstice mechanism is like the Sky's I do know they have different part numbers, so I can't use a solstice mechanism in the sky and visa-versa..
 

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You may be able to "finesse" the window back up after you take the inner door panel off. Might stay there on it's own for the time being. I've jury-rigged other vehicle windows in the past with a paint stir stick, etc. propping it up until you get the regulator assembly replaced.
 

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Or you could use duct tape...

Not really a good idea though as the adhesive that is left when the tape comes off is nasty stuff to remove.
 

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When I close the door on my car, I always push on the outer door handle, not the glass or paint. Pushing it closed by the glass puts stress on the rear vertical window guide. Check the 2 drain holes on the bottom of the doors from time to time for blockage to help prevent excess moisture from building up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well I'll probably just let someone else fix it. Gotta have it done by Monday. Letting insurance fix some scratches on the hood and front bumper. Thanks for the help guys.
 

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When I close the door on my car, I always push on the outer door handle, not the glass or paint. Pushing it closed by the glass puts stress on the rear vertical window guide. Check the 2 drain holes on the bottom of the doors from time to time for blockage to help prevent excess moisture from building up.
I also instructed my better half to open and close the doors with the glass all the way up or all the way down - not in between.
 

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For the 1.1 hours the tech gets, let him fart around with it. It's a MAJOR PITA!!!!!!!!! You have to re-adjust all the window settings after its done. Not too mention, if he breaks the interior trim pulling it off, he's responsible. I NEVER touch anything in the doors. It's just too big a pain. Honestly, I would rather drop a transmission then work on an issue in the door.
 

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Heh! I've been in and out of the doors many times (chromies, speaker change, sound insulation, auto-windows, puddle lights, and more I can't think of I'm sure). Pretty easy and never an issue.

Now I admit, I've never change the regulator on this car, but I have done in on others, and again, no biggie.

But I agree, the OP is correct in his choice. If you need it done now, and worried about being able to do it, go to a professional.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So just heard back from a couple of places. Brace yourselves for this. $850 from Firestone ($650 in parts) and around $570 from a Chevy dealership ($370 in parts). They are saying it's the regulator and motor. I know ghost is saying it's all one assembly so figures both would need to be replaced but jesus christ.... and it wont be here until around Tuesday or Wednesday. No lube for me on this one I guess
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the info. Will do more pushing. Already got Firestone to lower their price below the dealerships but not by much.
 

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That's because its a PITA to replace, I would strongly urge you find an ex=pontiac dealer to handle it. My driver sky windows were done for about 430.13 with discounts + tax.
labor 187.50 - 78.59 labor discount, part 346.28 - part discount 116.40 plus door handle 91.34 total 430.13 plus tax. This of course was done at the ex-saturn dealer where I bought my Sky and H2.. They are the only ones allowed to work on my sky, (other than myself of course)..:willy::thumbs:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Just an update, couldn't get them to come down much lower so I'm stuck with a little over $500 in repairs. Oh well.
 

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Regulator only...or Regulator with Motor? Which would you buy?

My drivers side window regulator physically failed. The motor on that side has always been strong - and I believe was working fine when the regulator broke.

I know this is going to be a big pain in the neck to replace - but I'm willing to give it a go.

My question from you veterans out there is this - would you buy the regulator part only (20897016), or the one that comes with the motor (20897018). There appears to be $75 to $100 difference.

Appreciate your advice...
 

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I would get the complete unit. Motors weaken over time, and replacing the whole thing now could prevent further work later.
Of course i would also keep the old parts.
 

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I would get the complete unit. Motors weaken over time, and replacing the whole thing now could prevent further work later.
Of course i would also keep the old parts.
Thanks for the quick response! Found the part with motor for only $50 more than the part without. This is going to be a challenge - but we'll give it a go!
 
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