Pontiac Solstice Forum banner

DRL on a Solstice 2006 base

4353 Views 49 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  JohnWR
Hi to all
In Switzerland we have the problem that our law gives the order that the DRL must be white light and the turn signals must be amber. My Solstice has amber bulbs for DRL and front turn signals at all. So, I would change the bulbs in to led twin colour bulbs white/amber. Does anybody knows a led bulb that fits to my Solstice from own experience?
Thank's a lot for your help and greetings from Switzerland
Daniel
21 - 40 of 50 Posts
Thanks John. I've just found out this weekend that my modded rear turn signals stay lit amber if the auto headlights are on and it is daytime! So much for the hours of work I put into the turn signal mod. But, your off-delay relays are the answer to my issue and will also allow me to use switchback bulbs on the front turn signals so that I both solve the rear turn signals and get white DRLs.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
2
An update on this. I've ordered on-delay relays (not the ones suggested above because those are not available in Brazil) and since they are not weatherproof decided to install them inside the car on the BCM area.

I found out that John's suggestion works but there are a couple caveats I still have to tackle. One of them related to how the BCM works, and the other due to how the relays I got work -- might not be a problem for other brands/types of relay.

The 1st issue is that when the BCM commands the turn signals "constant-on" (ie. DRL mode) it expects there to be a current draw from the bulbs. After installing the relay to switch the DRLs off, the BCM will presume bulbs are burned and when you use your turn signals you will get hyperflass, as if both bulbs were burnt. In my case due to the way my relays behave, hyperflash is quick enough for there to be no time for the relays to turn off, so the BCM never senses a load and keeps flashing quickly. I'll try to fix this by wiring the NO contact or the relays to the "white" pin of my switchback turn signal bulbs so that I get white DRLs and the BCM sees a load.

The second issue has to do with my relays. The type of circuit they use is not suited to quick switching. Timing seems to be related to a capacitor and how quickly it charges/discharges. So what happens is with time the capacitor picks up a "residual charge" from the on-off pulses of the turn signal wires since it charges a little, then discharges but always less than what it had charged, and reaches a point where the relays start to buzz in a almost-latching situation. They would also flutter when turning on, this was fixed by changing the caps from 100uF to 47uF ones I had lying around. There seems to be a discharge resistor ( I measured 64 kohms between the capacitor pins when I had removed the 100uF cap) in the circuit and maybe I could change its value to allow the capacitor to discharge more quickly?

Here's a couple pics of the relays ready in the box I mounted (hot-melt-glued them actually) on to.



Can the resident electronics wizards help me out put maybe? Calling @TomatoSoup, @JohnWR, @kgschlosser... Thanks

Attachments

See less See more
You may be able to solve the problem by adding a resistor across the coil of each relay to make the relay look like the original incandescent bulb. You will need the same resistor used to load the circuit for an LED and will have to be aware of the heat it will generate when mounting it.
  • Helpful
Reactions: 1
You may be able to solve the problem by adding a resistor across the coil of each relay to make the relay look like the original incandescent bulb. You will need the same resistor used to load the circuit for an LED and will have to be aware of the heat it will generate when mounting it.
Thanks John, I thought about this and its heat implications, but since I want the NO contact of the relays to power the white pin of the switchback bulbs (thus rendering white DRLs), I will have to route a couple wires from the bulbs at the engine bay to the BCM. It's kind of a pain to do but the 9mm² wire I routed the other day for the rear relay box kind of opened up some room around it on the big fat grommet. With the wires routed, if resistors are still necessary, I can mount them out there on the engine bay whee heat can be managed. So I have a plan but thought it would be helpful for others to mention this issue.
What remains to do and I'm still not positive on how, is adjust the relays' behaviour to solve the residual charge problem on the relays' capacitors.
Quick googling found me this. Maybe the BCM never zeroes the input when blinking since with filament bulbs it's not an issue?

Attachments

See less See more
Thanks John, I thought about this and its heat implications, but since I want the NO contact of the relays to power the white pin of the switchback bulbs (thus rendering white DRLs), I will have to route a couple wires from the bulbs at the engine bay to the BCM. It's kind of a pain to do but the 9mm² wire I routed the other day for the rear relay box kind of opened up some room around it on the big fat grommet. With the wires routed, if resistors are still necessary, I can mount them out there on the engine bay whee heat can be managed. So I have a plan but thought it would be helpful for others to mention this issue.
What remains to do and I'm still not positive on how, is adjust the relays' behaviour to solve the residual charge problem on the relays' capacitors.
The relatively low resistance of the loading resistor wired across the relay coil may take care of that for you.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
I've added a pair of 15ohm/10w resistors in parallel (effective values combined 7.5phm/20w). It did solve the hyperflash (as predicted) but not the relay's unstable operation (as hoped).


I'm pondering whether there would be a way of discharging the timed relays' capacitors more quickly. Otherwise maybe the best solution is a microcontroller such as used by @TomatoSoup on the Kappablinker.
I missed this earlier, but in trying to read the thread I'm confused as to what you are doing, Anderson, and how you've tackled it so far? Maybe you can explain, either here or in a PM? Then maybe I can get my head around it.
  • Helpful
Reactions: 1
Sorry TS for not getting back to you before. I'm on business travel today and spend the whole day in a meeting.

I have a 2006 and the 2006 has a model year-specific DRL system. Turn signals are commanded directly by the BCM (no blinker relay) and the front turn signal bulbs can either blink when hazards or turn signals are engaged; or stay lit steadily when the DRLs are engaged.

DRLs will turn on for my car when a specific set of conditions is met:
  • Key is ON
  • dash light sensors detects a daylight situation
  • headlights are on AUTO
  • handbrake is released

I need to disable the DRL / steady lit behaviour. OP asked the same and John suggested using a timed on-delay relay. Relay coil positive and common contact connected to the BCM turn signal wire; relay normally closed contact connected to the turn signal lamp; timed relay set to 2 or 3 second delay. When blinking, the timed relay will reset itself at each "off" pulse and would never reach the on-delay threshold. When BCM sends a steady 12v (DRLs on), after the 2/3 second on-delay time, the relay would switch thus severing the connection between the BCM wire and the bulb.

This is what I tried to achieve with my on-delay relays from ebay/China. But the relays don't reset properly during the "off" pulse because they use capacitors for the time delay and the capacitors are not discharging quickly enough. When the next "on" pulse from the turn signal comes, the capacitor still has a residual charge, the relay is not fully reset and it starts behaving different from intented ie. it latches too early, or buzzes.

So at this moment what I'm asking help with is how to change my relays' circuits so that when the positive input on the relay goes low, the relay resets itself without any delay ie. the capscitor discharges immediately. It should be able to reset/discharge fully before the next on pulse comes along.

Maybe the relays suggested by John to the OP don't have ths slow reset problem, but I can't find them for sale anywhere in Brazil. So am hoping to improve my cheap ebay relays so that they can handle the task.

I hope to have been able to describe the issue clearly enough, thanks for reading this long post and any help appreciated! Cheers
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Sorry, I've been travelling down to Florida (mother-in-law checkup) so missed your reply before. Hmm, I now fully understand the issue. I'm making assumptions here as it's a bit difficult to debug without knowing what the exact circuit layout is, but I see from your pics that your relay boards are using a 555 timer chip. Problem is the standard "delay on" circuit for this is really not meant to do what you want it to do. It doesn't expect to have continual on-off power and there is no discharge of the timing capacitor except for through the same resistor used to charge it in the first place, so the result is exactly what you've found. Offhand I'm not sure there's a way to fix this with your boards.

If I were doing this, I'd do it as you suggested earlier, with a microcontroller. :(
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Sorry, I've been travelling down to Florida (mother-in-law checkup) so missed your reply before. Hmm, I now fully understand the issue. I'm making assumptions here as it's a bit difficult to debug without knowing what the exact circuit layout is, but I see from your pics that your relay boards are using a 555 timer chip. Problem is the standard "delay on" circuit for this is really not meant to do what you want it to do. It doesn't expect to have continual on-off power and there is no discharge of the timing capacitor except for through the same resistor used to charge it in the first place, so the result is exactly what you've found. Offhand I'm not sure there's a way to fix this with your boards.

If I were doing this, I'd do it as you suggested earlier, with a microcontroller. :(
Thanks, you know what I thought: maybe a transistor could be used to alter the charge/discharge path for the circuit? When powered the transistor switches the path to include the delay resistor. When not powered the path switches to a smaller resistance resistor that will allow a faster, or instant discharge.
Thanks, you know what I thought: maybe a transistor could be used to alter the charge/discharge path for the circuit? When powered the transistor switches the path to include the delay resistor. When not powered the path switches to a smaller resistance resistor that will allow a faster, or instant discharge.
Yes! Certainly sounds like an option.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
I just found the comment below on Reddit (google took me there, I'm not a Reddit user):

"to discharge the capacitor faster, put a reverse-biased diode in parallel with this 100k resistor (and maybe 10-100 ohm resistor in series with this diode so you don't have sparks!)"
Does it make sense? So I would install a diode in series with a smaller resistor, in parallel to the large impedance resistor, and with the diode "flow" reversed so it would only allow current through when on the off (discharge) state...?
I just found the comment below on Reddit (google took me there, I'm not a Reddit user):



Does it make sense? So I would install a diode in series with a smaller resistor, in parallel to the large impedance resistor, and with the diode "flow" reversed so it would only allow current through when on the off (discharge) state...?
Yes, that does make sense. My only question would be whether the discharge current from the capacitor would be enough to damage the BCM output, since that is where the discharge is going to go. It seems that the discharge current cannot be any more than the charging current so I do not think it will damage anything, but I also do not know that it won't.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Deleted (sorry, misread)
  • Like
Reactions: 1
It depends what you are doing, what is the context here? If you just put a resistor/diode across the capacitor, it will discharge fine, but then never actually charge when you want the delay.
As I read it, the diode goes across the charging resistor to bypass it for discharge.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Well, I
Yes, that does make sense. My only question would be whether the discharge current from the capacitor would be enough to damage the BCM output, since that is where the discharge is going to go. It seems that the discharge current cannot be any more than the charging current so I do not think it will damage anything, but I also do not know that it won't.
Hmmm, if charging slowly through a 100kohm resistor and then discharging quickly through a, say 100ohm resistor, wouldn't the discharge current be much greater than the charge current?

But: wouldn't it discharge to ground? The capacitor as is now on the circuit has its negative leg (cathode? I always confuse) wired in series with the trimpot currently set at around 100kohm which is then wired in series to ground/negative so I'd think it'd discharge to ground.
Well, I

Hmmm, if charging slowly through a 100kohm resistor and then discharging quickly through a, say 100ohm resistor, wouldn't the discharge current be much greater than the charge current?

But: wouldn't it discharge to ground? The capacitor as is now on the circuit has its negative leg (cathode? I always confuse) wired in series with the trimpot currently set at around 100kohm which is then wired in series to ground/negative so I'd think it'd discharge to ground.
I think that the diode/resistor would have to connect back through the BCM bypassing the charging resistor, or current would be flowing through it all of the time, and the capacitor may never charge at all.

What happens if you turn the trim pot all the way to maximum time? And what is that time?
  • Like
Reactions: 1
One of the relays didn't even turn on anymore. The other went all the way up to 6 seconds using a 47uF capacitor. I measured the pins on the 555 of the failed relay and compare it to the working one. The working one had one pin at about VIN - 3v while that same pin was 0.6v on the failed one. While testing I managed to short two pins on the good one and it failed too. So investigation halted for now.

Serves me right for buying cheap crap off eBay (actually the local equivalent to eBay).

I am fed up with these analog circuit relays. I've found an on-delay relay model used by VW/MAN trucks on one of their tilt hopper trucks as a safety device and it has a 5 second delay. Ordered a couple of those and it will be the last thing I test before ordering an Arduino board and teaching myself how to make it work.

Sorry to waste everyone's time so far. Thanks...
One of the relays didn't even turn on anymore. The other went all the way up to 6 seconds using a 47uF capacitor. I measured the pins on the 555 of the failed relay and compare it to the working one. The working one had one pin at about VIN - 3v while that same pin was 0.6v on the failed one. While testing I managed to short two pins on the good one and it failed too. So investigation halted for now.

Serves me right for buying cheap crap off eBay (actually the local equivalent to eBay).

I am fed up with these analog circuit relays. I've found an on-delay relay model used by VW/MAN trucks on one of their tilt hopper trucks as a safety device and it has a 5 second delay. Ordered a couple of those and it will be the last thing I test before ordering an Arduino board and teaching myself how to make it work.

Sorry to waste everyone's time so far. Thanks...
I don't consider it a waste of time, as it has been an interesting journey through an interesting problem. And I hope that you will continue with it when you get the new relay.

I keep thinking how amazing it would be for someone to reverse-engineer the BCM to be able to customize this sort of thing.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
21 - 40 of 50 Posts
Top