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Discussion Starter #1
So I ordered all of the pieces needed to attempt a dual projector HID retrofit. That is 2 HID projectors in a single headlamp housing.

one projector is going to be placed on the lower inside corner of the lens while the second will be on the upper outside corner. The upper lens is going to be set back behind the lower lens.

The lower lens is going to be low beam and also high beam. The upper lenses will be strictly high beam. To manage the obnoxious amount of heat that is going to be inside the headlamp houses I have tasked a 40mm x 40mm x 20mm Noctua fan for each housing. The fans have an RPM wire that I can use to trigger some kind of a notification if a fan fails. These fans move a monster (considering the size of the fan) 5.53 CFM of air making only 14.9dB of sound.

Each projector is going to be individually adjustable up/down and left/right.

I am not going to be able to retain the stock reflector bowl doing this conversion but I am not going to need to use it as a gap filler because the 2 projectors should fill up most of the visible space.

I bought cheap 2.5" projectors to see if it is even possible. If it works out well then I will purchase a single set of good projectors for the low/high beam. and I will get the laser projectors for the dedicated high beams.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
@shabby

I am not sure.. hence the reason why I bought cheap projectors.. LOL.. better to be out 60 bucks then 300 if it doesn't fit. I am pretty sure they will fit, I am thinking that I may have to modify one of the shrouds by cutting a partial circle out of the edge of it so that I can get the projectors closer to one another. Making an assembly to hold each of the projectors should be fairly easy. piece of flat aluminum stock with a hole drilled into the center where the projector can mount to. then 3 holes drilled around the edge where the mounts will screw into. one mount will be fixed and the other 2 will be adjustable.

I ordered a bunch of replacement adjustment screws that have the clips that will hold the screw into the back of the headlamp housing. I am going to use a thicker piece of aluminum to hold the projectors something like 1/4" so I can thread the mount for the adjustment screws.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
OK so I just got my parts in to do this retrofit. My first impression of the projectors is that they are fairly well made. I can't visibly see any anomalies in the lenses and I used a magnifier to check. The housing construction is solid and all metal. I paid 35 bucks for a pair of them. They should turn out reasonably well.

I am debating on what to do with the dedicated high beam projectors. They do have the high low function and I am not sure if I should remove the shade and turn the ballasts on when the high beams turn on, I wouldn't have to worry about the warmup time because I have the other projectors that have high/low function so I would have instant high beams. I just wouldn't have the full brightness until the second set warms up.

The other choice is to make the shade larger so it blocks all of the light. The projectors came with shrouds and those shrouds have slits in them that light will pass through. So keeping them lit when the low beams are on would allow the slits to have light coming out of them.

I just need to find a big enough piece of aluminum to mount the projectors to and also drill and tap the holes for the adjusters. I need 4 pieces that measure 3" x 3" or maybe 2.5" x 2.5"... I have to think of what I have kicking about the house... I know I have 1" L channel the problem is that it's only 1/16" thick and wouldn't be ideal for trying to thread into. I might have some 1/8th inch thick still kicking about.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well I have good news... They fit!

This is just a proof of concept and the projectors are not fully mounted. I am going to set them back further and that is going to require me to add onto the housing. I am debating if I should build a vacuum forming machine and remake the entire back half of the lenses. It wouldn't be that difficult to build a vacuum forming machine. Black ABS plastic softens up pretty easily. Just need a couple of heat lamp bulbs, couple of shop vacuums, some wood and a piece of sheet metal.. I would have to drill a lot of holes and that would be extremely tedious because the holes have to be pretty small. I would also have to make a fiberglass negative of the existing piece Still shouldn't be all to difficult to do. The most difficult part would be making the seal around the outside edge.

I could just extend the thing using ABS. heat it up to make the shape I need and use butyl and pop rivets to seal the 2 pieces together. I bought HID's that use H1 bulbs so all I would need is an access hole. I bought 18" ballast to bulb extensions so I can have the wire run through a hole and seal it up all nice nice.

remember these photos are a proof of concept and I have to do some trimming and I have to make the brackets for one of the projectors. I think they stick out to much so I want to recess them back more.

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Discussion Starter #7
they should, Morimoto makes a 2.5" projector which is what these are.... And now that I am looking at the projectors in the daylight they actually look to be positioned really well and I don't think that I am going to move them back into the housings more...

I am going to make the bracket for the second projector today and get them mounted in there. When I get the second projector done I will put together a parts list and a cut sheet so anyone else that wants to do this will be able to pretty easily.

This is the list of things I have ordered thus far.


GM Headlight adjustment screws
2 @ 10.88

AMP Ballast to bulb 18" extension cables
2 @ 8.99

HID 6000K H1 bulbs
2 @ 15.99

55 watt HID Ballasts w/canbus decoder
2 @ 45.99

2.5" HID High/Low Projectors with black shroud
2 @ 25.69

Noctua 40mm x 40mm x 20mm 3 pin 12 volt DC fan
2 @ 14.95

1/4" round butyl rope
1 @ 5.66

3M super 33+ electrical tape
1 @ 3.98

1/4" PET split loom
1 @ 9.99

Wire tie downs (assortment)
1 @ 15.99

Aluminum U/C channel 3/4" leg, 1 1/2" inside, 1/8" thick, 4 foot long
1 @ 30.00

Aluminum flat bar 3/4" x 1/8" x 36"
1 @ 10.00

Stainless steel blind pop rivets, 1/8" diameter 0.251 to 0.312 grip length 100 pcs
1 @ 11.58



total price for all bits and pieces
332.18

If you wanted to go with Morimoto HID and projector setup the total price would be.
871.84

It's a huge jump in price to get the Morimoto projectors and ballasts. This is an expense I am not sure would be worth it. Looking at the 25 dollar projectors they are really well built. and the same goes for the ballasts.

I personally do not like the mini or slim ballasts because of the internal arcing that can occur. i like the full size ones where the igniter is internal and not a box that is attached to the cord. It makes for a cleaner install and doesn't have the arcing issues. I was not able to locate any on Amazon that were 55 watt and had decent reviews So I ended up going with the slim ballasts.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The great thing about how I am designing this is that the projectors are going to be able to be adjusted individually. they will have up/down and left/right for each projector.

If you did a single projector retrofit you would only have a n up/down adjustment and not a left/right because the OE headlamp setup doesn't have an adjustment screw for this. So when doing a retrofit it is more of a pain because of getting the projector s to point correctly. It is a whole lot of taking the headlamps out, taking them apart, making an adjustment, putting them back together and then putting them back in the car. This is something I would not want to do because of the risks associated with taking the lamp assys apart. It is only gonna be so many times before a lens gets cracked.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I just got the bracket made for the low beam. I do have to say this thing is looking bad ass. I am going to make the brackets over again so they are better looking. these ones are a prototype. and as such I have holes in them that aren't needed and some extra parts that aren't needed.

I should be able to light the one headlamp assembly up pretty soon. When I do this I will mount it in the vehicle and take some photos.

I think I may take the projector that is supposed to be a dedicated high beam apart and extend the shade to cover the entire projector lens when the high beams are not turned on, or at the very least see if there is enough room to do that. and if not then i will tie that shade fully open.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
well I got the brackets made for the first headlamp assembly. Each projector is separately adjustable up and down and also left and right.


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I have to do some cleanup on the brackets and then paint them. I ordered some PP plastic that I am going to heat and bend around the lower projector so the meat and potatoes are not seen. I also picked up some PP welding rod that I am going to put into my Dremil tool to do a "spin weld" The friction is going to heat the rod, the piece I am going to add and also the back of the headlamp assembly. It will fuse the 2 pieces together while adding some material. It is a pretty similiar process to Tig welding.


I also decided that I am going to wire up the HID's so all 4 projectors are on when the headlights are on. I added to the dedicated high beam shade so it covers the lights that would come out of the projector. I did this for 2 reasons, one is warmup time, the other is the shroud has some holes in it that get lit up from the stray light coming from the bulb So I thought it would look good to have that lit up when the low beam is on.

The other headlamp assembly should take far less time to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I knew I should not have used the can of spray paint i had to paint the inside bezel of the headlamp lens. It is a few months old and had already been used... Now I have to sand off the paint I just sprayed on the bezel because it came out all messed up.

I was being lasy and didn't want to have to make the trip to Home Depot to buy more. Now I have to still do that and also some extra work.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
OK so I now have my paint issue sorted. And because of the screw up it has showed me a way to paint the thing that is going to look really cool.

I stripped it all down and started over with primer again. so tomorrow I am going to shoot it with a few coats of silver and then a few coats of black on top of that. Then I am going to intentionally sand through the black to expose the silver along some of the hard edges in the bezel.

going to sand out the entire thing to 3000 grit and then use some rubbing compound on it and a few coats of Carnuba wax to bring back the shine and it should be good to go. I am still waiting on my sheets of Polypropylene so i can make a cover for the low beam projectors.

Then I have to take the brackets out and duplicate them in reverse for the other side. then I have to paint the brackets black so they will be less visible. I am going to stack the ballasts one on top of the other using some kind of a standoff or bushing and mount them to the flat area on the underside of the housing.I am going to hve to do some rewiring of the fuse box so the high beam trigger will keep the low beam relay activated. I do not think the BCM high beam output trigger is going to have a high enough current output so I will have to add in a relay off of the output side of the high beam relay to set the low beam relay. Going to need to put in a diode on the low beam trigger wire from the BCM so nothing back feeds into the BCM.

Once I get the Steering Angle sensor reverse engineered I am going to tear this entire thing apart again and make the headlights active.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
HMMM.... I may not even put the bezels in.. I would need to make the brackets look better but that would not be that hard to do. I would have to remake the low beam bracket (upper projector) and polish them up.

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Has a kind of "mechanical" look to them. I like it. I do not know if any stray light coming out of the back of the projectors between the shrouds and the lens would be an issue. I am thinking it probably won't. If it is I can close off that space.
 
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