I can't see any of the pictures can someone send some to me so I can do this mod.. Thanks a lot guys.This post describes the installation process. Note that each image FOLLOWS its description.
Image #1: Before Installation
The image below shows my GXP in unmodified condition. Note the stock air intake and cooling pipes.
Image #2: Remove Engine Cover
Image #3: Full Engine View with Cover Removed, Before Mod
A full engine image with the cover removed, so you can see where everything is located. The exposed valve is in the center of this image.
You can see the "incoming" rubber tube coming around the front side of the engine block into the front side of the surge valve (this is the one we'll unplug). (We'll call this Hose #1.) (See this post for more information about where this hose comes from.)
Another rubber tube comes out of the side of the surge valve facing away from camera (the right side of the car when viewed from the driver's seat) and circles over the top of Hose #1 over to enter the intercooler pipe (bottom-left area of the image below). (We'll call this Hose #2.) (This hose will not be touched in this mod.)
A third rubber tube comes out of the side of the surge valve facing the camera, then takes an immediate 90-degree turn and drops down into the engine block (this is the one we'll slice in half and insert the T connector into). (We'll call this Hose #3.)
Image #4: Close-up of Charge Air Bypass Valve (Solenoid) Before Mod
This image shows a close-up of the valve before the mod takes place. You may want to read the description for image #3 above again while looking at this image closely. Note that the plastic-covered wiring that comes up from the bottom of this image (just above the dip-stick) and enters the surge valve is not going to be touched during this mod. Be careful not to slice it when you cut Hose #3.
Image #5: One Last "Before" Shot
This image shows the "before" from one more angle, just to give a better view of where some of these rubber tubes are coming from and going to.
Image #6: The T-Connector
Close-up of the T-connector that you're going to insert into the sliced rubber tubing.
Image #7: Unplugging the "Incoming" Tube
This image shows the removal of the tube that's plugged into the left (front-of-car) side of the surge valve. Here we see Hector loosening the green metal tie piece that holds the tube firmly clamped. DO NOT CLAMP THE TUBE WITH THE PLIERS! Just loosen the tie piece and then you should be able to pull the tube loose with your fingers.
Image #8: Capping the Inlet Hole
Once you've removed the rubber tubing that leaves an open nozzle on the valve that has to be closed. Simply place the cap onto the nozzle. (It doesn't need to be tied off.)
Image #9: Slice the Rubber Tubing
Now we need to slice the rubber tubing. It's a bit hard to see which tubing is being sliced here, but it's the shortest of the three tubes that we've been talking about, and it runs from the surge valve into the engine block just a couple of inches aft of the surge valve. This is "Hose #3" described above. Slice this hose all the way through, and then insert the T-connector into the gap you've just created.
Image #10: T-Connector Inserted
This image shows the T-connector after it has been inserted into the sliced rubber hose. You can just see the white "T" portion of the connector sticking out from the black hose. If you look closely you can also see Hose #1 hanging loose, with its disconnected end dangling just to the left of the dip stick handle.
(Continued in next post.)
read through the thread before you do the mod, after noticing degradation in performance or no performance gains at all plenty of people put it back the way it was designed
if this is the type of solenoid we have, (and according to the part description small dealer posted it is), I really don't think you want to dis-engage this deviceAdvantages
Since less positive pressure can be present at the wastegate actuator as desired boost is approached the wastegate remains closer to a completely closed state. This keeps exhaust gas routed through the turbine and increases energy transferred to the wheels of the turbocharger. Once desired boost is reached, closed loop based systems react by allowing more air pressure to reach the wastegate actuator to stop the further increase in air pressure so desired boost levels are maintained. This reduces turbocharger lag and lowers boost threshold. Boost pressure builds faster when the throttle is depressed quickly and allows boost pressure to build at lower engine RPM than without such a system.
I've always thought this "mod" was counter productive as I've stated a few timesI had my doubts about this mod and your explanation of how the CBV solenoid works has reinforced my suspicions that this mod is not a good idea.
Thanks, Sodaminsane, for taking the time to write such a detailed response! :dthumbs:
this is why I ask everyone to read through this thread to see if they really want to perform this "mod", there are a few people on the thread that did notice a decrease in performance, I don't think they were just the automaticsodamninsane said:I suppose no one with an automatic has tried it because it would actually make the shift torque lag worse?